S.B.S – Single Barrel Selection Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask

SBS Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask Rum Review by the fat rum pirateS.B.S – Single Barrel Selection Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask. Single Barrel Selection is part of the 1423 groups output. Formed in 2008 1423 are based in Denmark and are headed up by co-owners Thomas Vogensen, Parminder S Bhatia and Joshua Singh.

1423 seek out single casks of rum and also bottle blends of rum in their Companera range. Their range has recently become more prominent in the UK thanks to Skylark Spirits who are importing the 1423 rums into the UK. Should you wish to learn more about 1423 they have a very informative website here.

Single Barrel Selection Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask is a rum which originally hailed from the Foursquare Rum Distillery. Probably the most popular distillery amongst enthusiasts at the moment. With the possible exception of the now defunct Caroni Distillery.

This rum is from a single barrel which yielded 371 bottles. It was distilled back in 2008 and was bottled in Denmark in 2017. Prior to bottling the rum was aged for 12 months in Denmark in ex-Marsala casks. The Marsala itself was aged for 5 years. It is unclear when the rum was originally brought to Europe, so I don’t know the percentage of Continental European/Tropical ageing.

The rum is currently available via Amazon priced at £89.99 for a 70cl bottle. The ABV on this one is 55% ABV. I am not sure if this is Cask Strength. I suspect not, it may have had some dilution in Denmark. It is noted as Non-Chill Filtered.

Presentation wise the design is modern using a short stubby style bottle with a cork stopper. The rum also comes with a card sleeve with a cut out which means you can still read the details on the bottle. Information wise the rum displays number of bottles, year of distillation etc prominently on the front label. The card sleeve helps the bottle stand out a but more – it’s reminiscent of the Compagnie des Indes sleeves. Though the 1423 bottles aren’t quite as colourful and striking.

In the glass Single Barrel Selection Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask is a dark reddish brown with orange flashes.

The nose is very inviting with lots of coconut and vanilla present. Further nosing reveals some plum and blackberry. Almost like a Mixed Fruit Jam.The Marsala cask finish is quite evident giving this rum a sweeter nose than you would encounter, in say Foursquare 2005 or Rum Sixty Six. There is a zesty freshness to the end of the nose and a slight spiciness – and a touch of smoke.

Sipped at the full 55% ABV this is very drinkable and very nicely done. The sip reveals more oak influence from the ex-bourbon maturation. Really nice notes again of the coconut followed by vanilla and some real good lemon zest. Tingly spices from the bourbon cask give this a really nice complex mouthfeel.

The mid palate is perhaps where the Marsala cask is most noticeable. Once the coconut and vanilla fade we are re-acquainted with the rich fruity notes – plum, tangerine and some blackberries/currants.

Finish wise it is quite a dry finish. Lots of woody oak notes and some real bourbon like notes. It’s light, refreshing. I like the way the initial sip, mid palate and finish all evolve and move into very different territories. It’s a really complex sip.

The Marsala cask doesn’t dominate this rum or take away any of the qualities that were present prior to the second maturation. Instead it adds a subtle extra layer of fruitiness which makes this rum different enough to warrant a purchase.

Price wisSBS Barbados 2008 Marsala Cask Rum Review by the fat rum piratee it is “expensive” should you compare it to Foursquare’s own releases. Ultimately it will depend on how much you need to try every Foursquare around. I would opt for something like this, with a different finish to many of the Indie bottlings currently available.

Believe me whilst a Indie bottling of Foursquare aged for around 12 years in ex-bourbon barrels is great – I wouldn’t say it is any better than the distilleries own bottlings. Some aren’t quite as good or two, three times the price.

As Foursquare have released so many of their own bottlings recently, this may only be for the hardcore. That said I have noticed that a number of enthusiasts have still been buying this. I doubt the 371 bottles will last very much longer.

1423 were responsible for the second maturation of the Worthy Park bottlings. The Marsala and Oloroso finish limited editions. They have also worked with Worthy Park again on their new editions. Stand by for the reviews – they are on the way. So it is safe to say they know what they are doing when it comes to this kind of secondary maturation/finish.

A slightly different take on classic Foursquare and a very tasty rum to boot. Didn’t even need dilution at 55% ABV.

Well worth a look.

 

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  • Rhum J.M Millesime 2003

    Rhum J.M are an Agricole Rhum producer from Macouba on the French speaking Caribbean island of Martinique.

    Located in northern Martinique at the foot of Mount Pelée.Habitation Bellevue produces sugarcane which is grown up the face of a volcano.

    The Housing Bellevue, located on the flanks of Mount Pelee, with rich volcanic soil, allows the sugar cane used exclusively by Rhum J.M. to have unique flavour.  Agricole Rhum producers are very keen on using marketing terms such as “terroir” when describing their rums.  This is because Agricole in the main, is produced on only a few small islands so it doesn’t have quite as much obvious or immediate diversity as the molasses rum world.

    Rhum J.M are owned by the same concern that own Rhum Clement – Bernard Hayot.  As Rhum J.M. is produced on the island it carries the AOC designation which outlines how the spirit has been produced in line with prescribed standards.

    Rhum J.M Millesime was bottled at 44.8% ABV and when available in the UK cost around £80 per 70cl bottle.

    The Cuvee of Rhum J.M MIllesime 2003 was aged back in 2003 for 10 years in re-charred american oak barrels.  Each Year the barrels are topped up with rhum from the same vintage to re-fill the angels share in each barrel.   Rhum J.M note that their storage tank is air conditioned so temperature is controlled throughout the maturation.

    In the glass Rhum J.M Millesime 2003 presents itself as a deep golden brown colour.

    The nose is quite gentle but nicely balanced. Its fairly sweet with notes of caramel and vanilla. There are some nice oak notes and some gentle spices a hint of coriander – nice interaction with the bourbon casks.  It is refined and completely at odds with some of the younger grassier agricoles I have tried in the past.   It is fruity with notes of stewed prunes and baked apples.

    At 44.8% ABV the rum is sippable without any water.  It is a very easy spirit to drink.  For me balance is often forgotten about by many reviewers.  This rhum is in many ways quite straightforward.  The initial sip is spicy – quite a lot of sweet/sour bourbon notes.  There is a touch of grassiness but it is only a touch – just enough to remind you this is a cane juice rather than a molasses based rum. It has a nice sweetness – good amount of caramel and a little toffee.  There is a fruity sweetness, a touch of Apricot jam.

    This is a really nicely done, beautifully balanced rhum agricole. There is quite a lot of oak and spiciness but the other notes still make a difference to the profile.

    It seems quite simple at first but after a few sips its reveals its depths.  The finish is quite short but again it is pleasant and there is no off note or anything that doesn’t work with this rum.

    Really good stuff.

    A special note as well as finding photographs of this rum has proved tricky so I have “pinched” one from on my UK rum friends Kevin Brooks.  Kevin gave me this sample at the 2016 Rum Fest.  He probably thought I had forgotten about it.  My agricole journey is still developing but I think this rum has definitely shown me the way

    Cheers Kev

     

     

  • Chairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection – UK Rum Club Exclusive

    Chairman's Reserve Master's Selection - UK Rum Club Exclusive rum review by the fat rum pirateChairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection – UK Rum Club Exclusive. This particular post isn’t going to be quite what you might be expecting. It’s not MY review of the Chairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection – UK Rum Club Exclusive.

    No, I’ve chosen not to review the 100% Vendome Pot Still single cask number 173, which was chosen by Steven James (Rum Diaries Blog) and myself. It would in my mind be a bit pointless and could easily cause a lot of criticism, if I gave what was effectively my own bottling a 5 star rating, for example. I’ve recently reviewed the Chairman’s Reserve Legacy which I also recommend!

    So here we have our first “guest review” from Alex over at The Rum Barrel. He’s paid for this bottling (and his SBS Jamaica pack) out of his own pocket, during what has been a  very hard time for him and many others in the drinks industry. So a huge thank you for the show of support Alex!

    The Rum Barrel has only been active around 18 months as a fully fledged “website”. Prior to this Alex used Facebook to publish his reviews. He has amassed a good number of reviews in this time though. So the website is well worth bookmarking, as he is one of the more active bloggers. This is his latest review and he seems to be as enthusiastic about the bottling as we were.

    I will say at this point that I had no input at all into his review and in no way influenced the score given. I didn’t approach Alex about using his review in this way until after it was published.

    Read his review here.

    Cheers Alex for this review. If you are interested in picking up a bottle then you will find that and it’s “sister” cask at Royal Mile Whiskies. Here are the links UKRC Exclusive and RMW Exclusive.

  • Appleton Estate Reserve Aged 8 Years

    Appleton Reserve rum review by the fat rum pirateAppleton Estate Reserve rum for the world famous Appleton Estate distillery.  Appleton Estate is part of a portfolio of rums produced by J Wray and Nephew and Sons.  The company pretty much dominate domestic rum sales in Jamaica.

    Appleton Estate Reserve highly regarded throughout the rum world and is seen by many as one of the best examples of rum for your money.

    A 70cl bottle will set you back around £25 which for a 8 year old rum is more than reasonable.  The rum comes housed in the distinctive Appleton Estate bottle (which can lead to a little confusion as the V/X this and the 12 all come in roughly the same bottle) the Reserve has a screw cap and is bottled at a hefty 43%.  Which is fairly unusual for a single digit mass produced rum.  The V/X is widely available in Sainsburys but they are yet to stock the Reserve.

    Appleton Estate Reserve is a mix of heavy Jamaican pot still rums blended under the guidance and supervision of master blender Joy Spence.  The V/X which I have reviewed previously is a great mixing rum and the Reserve is priced at a point where it could be premium mixer or a sipping rum.

    My initial experience of Jamaican rums wasn’t one I enjoyed.  The intense flavours and my naivity meant they were just too much for my sweet tooth.  Over time and around 150 rums later I’ve begun to really enjoy the deep rich fruity flavours contained within these rums.

    Appleton Estate are quite a good introduction to the world of Jamaican rums.  Rums such as Smith & Cross, Coruba 74 and Hampden Gold are very intense.  Whilst Appletons rums still have that fruity funky Jamaican feel they have a slightly more refined profile.  If Smith & Cross is for Blackbeard Appleton is for Admiral Vernon.

    So onto the review.  On the nose the Reserve exhibits all the deep dark rich fruits, Appleton 8 rum review by the fat rum piratestewed banana, rich pineapple, hints of mango and red grapes.  There is strangely a slight Demerara feel to the nose.  There are hints of the Port Morant still from DDL in the nose.  Slightly funky and with a little bit of chocolate.

    To be honest nosing Jamaican rums you could spend all day such is the depth of aromas contained due to their production.  It is to be noted that for two “classic” styles of rum so geographically close – Bajan and Jamaican the differences are quite astounding.  Then again there are elements involved in Jamaican rum production which are not for the feint hearted!  So moving away from the fantastic nose and onto the Reserve as a sipping experience.  To be honest the Reserve is surprisingly spicy on the tongue.  I wouldn’t use the term rough as that would suggest young and unaged spirit.  One word I wouldn’t use is smooth.  It’s very spicy.  Strong notes of black pepper and oaked heat break through following the initial burst of rich fruit flavours.  The rum has a lovely smooth entry which quickly heats up.  The initial notes of pineapple and dark almost to ripe banana give way to spicy all most curry like deep spicy heat.  The flavours linger and coat the taste buds with hot spice.  The barrel ageing gives the rum surprisingly little by way of an oaky profile.  Rich fruits and black pepper dominate.

    There is a lot to be enjoyed from sipping Appleton Reserve.  It is surprisingly complex and offers an experience far better than many so called Premium Rums out theres in the £50 price bracket.  Whilst many think English Harbour and Angostura 1919 offer an affordable sipping option Appleton Reserve is simply an absolute steal.

    I’m almost loathe to mix this as I’m enjoying the sipping experience so much. With my usual tipple of cola the Reserve surprisingly really smooth’s the drink out.  Whilst many drinkers seem to love smoothness (and even equate this quite wrongly in my view with quality).  I’m not a massive fan of this to be honest especially when I am mixing.  I guess I must like being a bit of a Pirate and drinking something with a bit oomph!

    The Reserve still makes a very tasty rum and cola but personally I think I would have a bottle of V/X for that – it gives roughly the same flavour but without the extra smoothness I just don’t appreciate.

    As a mixer go with the V/X if you a surprisingly good sipper at a very reasonable price then go for the Reserve.  The extra few pounds for a sipper as good as this is well worth it.

    4 stars

     

     

     

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  • Rum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum

    Rum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum review by the fat rum pirateRum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum. Following on from my earlier review of Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO, I thought I would return to more “familiar” Independent fayre in the shape of a bottling from Guyana.

    Guyanan/Demerara Rum is extremely popular amongst Independent bottling enthusiasts. Up there perhaps with Caroni (Trinidad) and the output from the various Jamaican distilleries.

    In the UK Demerara rum is also very popular at the less expensive of the rum spectrum. Many retailers and supermarkets stock brands such as OVD, Woods and Skipper.

    Today we are looking at a rum from the Diamond Distillery (or Demerara Distillers Limited – DDL), which is the only remaining active rum distillery in Guyana.

    Information regarding this bottling has been obtained via the bottle and the companies website. Rum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum is as mentioned from the Diamond Distillery, it is noted as being a Column/Pot Batch rum. I’m assuming this means it is the product of distillate from more than one still. It has been aged in an ex-bourbon cask.

    430 bottles of this rum were available upon release and it has sold out on the companies website. However, there are currently a few bottles still available at Amazon. They are currently carrying a reduction from the usual £54.99 price tag down to £45.95.

    As with all Rum & Cane Merchants offerings the rum has been bottled at 46% ABV, it is non chill filtered with no additives. You can probably tell the bottlers have a Scotch Whisky background.

    Once again the rum does not have an age statement and I don’t know when it was distilled and bottled. I’ve no idea how old the rum is. I did mention the lack of age statements used by Rum & Cane Merchants in my previous review. They kindly sent me the following explanation

    “Although we bottle up properly aged rums we’ve tended not to put the age on the bottle as I’m sureRum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum review by the fat rum pirate you know in Rum there has been no regulation on what age claims people have been able to make. Us putting 10, 12 or even 20 years (actual real years) on a bottle doesn’t seem like much when a solera rum is claiming 23… Then there’s tropical vs EU aging… You know the story!

    Hopefully the new EU laws on rum age claims and additives will bring a stop to some of the nonsense which has been going on for years. Being from a Scotch background we’d like to see transparency and honesty in labelling.”

    Which is fair enough – but I’d still like to know how old my rum is!

    Presentation wise rum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum comes in their trademark “onion” style decanter. The familiar purple and gold colour scheme is also used. The rum itself comes with a sturdy tin cylinder to store the rum. The oversized cork stopper is also a very nice touch. The rum has won awards for its design and I can see why. It’s quite eye catching.

    So lets move onto the fun part, lets nose and sip this rum. Well I will anyway……..

    In the glass we have a dark brown spirit with reddish hue. It is quite dark so I’m hoping this is down to the ageing and nothing DDL have added prior to Rum & Cane Merchants getting their hands on it. They do like their caramel at DDL………

    The nose carries an aniseed like note but its quite sharp. It’s not a sweet aniseed note. It has more than a hint of a kind of perfumed varnish to it. Beneath this is a slightly herbal note, a touch grassy.

    Further nosing and time in the glass reveals a fruitier nose. I’m getting some banana cake and pineapple. Caramel and light toffee are also present on the nose.

    It’s certainly a rum that seems to benefit from some time to air in the glass. What seemed initially as quite a “sharp” nose has mellowed and become far more complex. The fruity banana/caramel notes become increasingly prominent.

    The initial sip is sweet and fruity. Lots of caramel and banana again. There is a hint of aniseed and some tobacco notes as well. It has a nice balance to it and reminds me quite a lot of the El Dorado 8 and 15 Year Old rums.

    The initial sweet burst on the entry evolves on the mid palate. More of the tobacco and some leathery/woody notes also come into the mix. There is woody chRum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum review by the fat rum piratear on the mid palate, which gives a slight astringent note. That said its not unpleasant. It’s just an extra layer to the rum

    Rum & Cane Merchants Guyana XO Single Cask Rum strikes me as quite a “light” blend. It’s quite easy going and goes down very easily. It has a really good balance and a more than decent complexity about it. In terms of Independent bottlings of Demerara rum – it can be a bit hit and miss. I’ve certainly had some very ordinary offerings. This is certainly much more hit than miss. I do get the feeling that this rum might have seen more tropical ageing than some others on the market. It just seems more rounded than many.

    The finish fades out gently with some nice woody oak spice and some sweet banana and raisin. It’s a good length but I suspect you might be reaching for another glass before it’s faded completely.

    I would say this would make a nice little step up into Independent Guyanan/Demerara bottlings for fans of El Dorado or even people who like a Wood’s or OVD and coke.

    I’d also say anyone who doesn’t get too pre-occupied with “Cask Strength” offerings will also find this a more than acceptable drop of rum.

     

     

     

  • Tellura Prata

    Tellura Prata Cachaca Rum Review by the fat rum pirateTellura Prata. Tellura is a recent addition to the Cachaca producing family in Brasil. Formed in 2015 Tellura with the aim to produce quality, handmade and sustainable Cachaca.

    Cachaca has been produced at Abadia Farm, Campos dos Gotacazes in the north of the state of Rio de Janeiro for over 100 years. Tellingly Tellura is located strategically just 48km to Port do Acu so it is already, geared to export outside of Brasil.

    The export market may also play a part in the presentation of Tellura. As a relatively new company I would expect quite a modern design. The design is clean and clear and reminds me a little of the presentation of Leblon. Leblon is one of the biggest Cachaca exports and is widely available in Europe. The colour scheme of green, grey and white is clean and crisp. The bottles are bar tender friendly and they do look well set to break into the “Caiprinha” market with this white Cachaca.

    Tellura Prata is bottled at 40% ABV.

    The sugar cane on the estate/farm is harvested manually and it is milled on the same day. They have 4 Copper Pot Stills with an annual capacity of 600,000 litres of Cachaca. Despite only being in production for a few years it is one of the biggest Cachaca plants in Brasil. Quite an achievement when you consider how many they are!

    Tellura use a variety of different barrel types and have three different Cachaca’s on offer. Tellura Prata is not aged in wood. It is stored in stainless steel tanks for 6 months after distillation. It is noted as being a Cachaca for mixing rather than sipping.

    In the glass Tellura Prata is crystal clear. The nose is a little like a muted version of Wray & Nephew. It has a slightly glue like note and hints of black pepper and hints of pear and pineapple.

    It is quite vegetal and grassy – the overwhelming note is very cane forward with a slight sourness on the nose. For a 40% spirit it is very punchy with some very punchy fruity notes like bruised bananas and fermented pineapple juice.

    A fan of funky Jamaican rums or Clairin will be very much at home with this Cachaca. It has a freshness which is sadly lacking in some white Cachaca which is produced in a more industrial manner.

    Even without the native Brasillian woods which are quite floral Tellura Prata has a lovely sweet floral note – something which makes it recognisable as a Cachaca. It’s light and pleasant and really balances out the more pungent notes.

    Sipped it is a very clean spirit. It isn’t as flavourful as I was expecting from the nose. It has an initial burst of sweetness, mixed with some pepper and a touch of what I can best describe as solvent.

    The grassy notes and the fruity notes don’t come across in the sip. There is a slight soapiness in the profile. The mid palate and finish don’t last very long and don’t offer a great deal. The finish gives a bit of smokiness akin to a Mezcal but its a little muted.

    Treated solely as a sipper this wouldn’t really stand up with the aged Cachaca’s. As this is marketed and I assume priced as a mixer it would only be fair if I reviewed it that way.

    Tellura Prata Cachaca Rum Review by the fat rum pirateCoke isn’t the best test of a Cachaca so I’m venturing into making a Caiprinha and a simple Ti Punch.

    Both work nicely but Tellura Prata isn’t the most punchy of Cachaca’s. It’s light and perhaps a little neutral in flavour. This can obviously work well with mixed drinks but for my preference I  would be seeking something that gives some more flavour of its own.

    Tellura Prata is pleasant enough as a mixer and does a decent job. However like so many White Rums it is perhaps a little to simple in its delivery. To neutral and doesn’t pack enough punch to really stand out from the crowd.

    I also have an aged Tellura to try going forward. I do expect that to be better. This is a nicely balanced well put together spirit but I think it could do with a bit more “oomph”.

     

  • Ultimatum Rum Fiji Secret Distillery Aged 12 Years

    Ultimatum Fiji Secret Distillery rum review by the fat rum pirateUltimatum Rum Fiji Secret Distillery is not quite as mysterious as it sounds. There is currently only one working commercial distillery on Fiji. So its not really much of a secret.

    Rums from Fiji have been popping up all over the place over the past year. Many independent bottlers have been picking up and releasing Fijian rums. The distillery is actually the South Pacific Rum distillery.

    Domestically they are responsible for a line up of rums called Bounty (not to be confused with the one produced in St Lucia).  They operate under the guise of the Fiji Rum Co.  I was advised a while back that the distilery is now owned by Bacardi International.

    Ultimatum is a line up rums released by The Little Distiller an independent bottler from the Netherlands.  They release mostly single cask rums. Limited to only a few hundred bottles.  Their releases are very reasonably priced and as a result the ABV is reduced down to 46% ABV.

    This Ultimatum Fiji Secret Distillery rum is limited to 304 bottles.  It retails at around 40 euro’s for a 70cl bottle with an ABV. They are currently really, only available in the Netherlands. Though most stores will ship to the rest of Europe.  Zeewijck are particularly good in my experience.

    I have previously tried a few rums from South Pacific – what I like about them is they are full bodied pot still rums.  The Berrys’ 8 Year Old I tried last year was perhaps a little bit too heavy but it showed promise nonetheless. As you will find with most Independent bottlers Ultimatum do not colour or add any additives to the rum.

    Ultimatum rums come in very sturdy circular stubby bottles.  You get a quality synthetic cork with a plastic topper.  The cork gives a very satisfying pop when opened.  The general presentation is quite modern and they keep the same colours etc for each release.  A bit like Cadenheads.

    Ultimatum Rum Fiji Secret Distillery Review by the fat rum pirateThis rum is a Pot Still rum distilled in December 2004 and bottled on the 24th February 2017. Giving it just over 12 years of ageing.  I do not imagine all of the ageing will have taken place in the Fijian Tropics. Nor do I have any information which suggests the rum has been aged in anything other than an ex-bourbon barrel or barrels.

    So without much else to say we may as well start seeing how good this rum is.

    In the glass the rum is a classic golden brown colour.  On the nose I am quite surprised by the balance.  I was expecting something more edgy like the Berrys’ 8 Year Old.  This is actually quite laid back.  Nice oaked notes, a little spiciness from the bourbon casks.  We also get some light notes of vanilla and a touch of tree sap.

    The development of this rum compared to its 8 year old cousin is huge.  The rough intense pot still notes that were so present in that rum are toned down to a much more manageable level.  This is more like a slightly aggressive Bajan rum.

    There is still a quite strong medicinal note of pine and tree sap but it is much more agreeable than in the younger Fijian rum.  Extra time in the barrel has really added layers of complexity to this rum.  It has a really enjoyable oaked spiciness to it which is completed by the stronger medicinal notes.  Nice overtones of vanilla and a salty-sweetness almost caramel note round this rum of nicely.  Satisfyingly complex.

    I’ve got a Cadenheads 11 Year Old Fijian rum which is a lot more heated than this one. I’m not sure if this is actually a blend of column and pot still rum as it does seem overall to be more balanced than you might expect from a solely pot still rum.

    This has a similar balance to classic Bajan and Jamaican rums such as Appleton 12, RL Seale’s 10 and Mount Gay XO.  It’s familiar but offers something just slightly different.  Before tasting this I thought Fijian rums closest cousins were the rums from St Lucia, but this rum is different to what i have experienced before.

    Very good rum at a very good price.  Highly recommended.