Lombo do Lombo Rum da Madeira 2023. The brand name will likely be unfamiliar to you. Unless, of course you have been fortunate enough to attend one of Peter Holland’s (thefloatingrumshack) masterclasses in Southern England over the past year or so.

However, the name O Reizinho may be more familiar to yourselves. After the William Hinton brand they are the second most recognised Madeiran rum brand I would say. This bottling a collaboration between O Reizinho distillery and local sugarcane farmers Chris and Liz Stevenson.

For those who do not know Madeira is an island off the coast of Portugal and a Portuguese territory. It is the birthplace of arguably the most recognisable and best footballer the world has ever seen – Ronaldo R7. If you ever visit by boat there is a statue of him at the port.

Lombo do Lombo Rum da Madeira 2023 is produced from a  single variety of purple sugar cane grown at Lombo do Lombo, which is 350m above sea level in Ponta do Sol, Madeira.

The 2023 growth of this purple sugar cane once harvested and distilled has produced just 369 50cl bottles . Which have bottled at a hefty 54.8% ABV.

The sugarcane was milled in a single pass at the O Reizinho Distillery and the fresh juice fermented over 72 hours before distillation in a wood-fired steam-injected Portuguese pot still.

So this is pretty much as small batch and limited as it gets. You can still pick up a bottle or two here for the very exact price of £59.30.

In the glass this is unaged rum so it is as nature intended and is crystal clear.

Upon nosing it is very bright and punchy. Very “clear” for want of a better word. It has a lot of clarity to it. I’m getting some lovely grassy sugar cane notes alongside some very bright citrus notes. There is a slight salty/briny part to the nose alongside some mango and pineapple.

It’s very more-ish on the nose and very inviting.

Further sipping reveals a little milkiness like a good cachaca and a hit of minerals backing it all up. It’s complex yet straighforward at the same time such is the clarity of the individual aromas.

Sipped it is much more acidic and has more citrus – lemon and some bittersweet limes. It is very full flavoured and has a depth to it that is often present I find with Madeira’s agricole as opposed to a Martinique or Guadaloupe example. I don’t know why but it seems to be bit richer and has an almost red wine like tannic experience going on.

The mid palate keeps up the intensity and the grassiness of the sugar and the sweet pineapple notes come out to play. It’s a lovely light yet complex drink which is full of contradictions yet it all works out beautifully.

It’s a great kind of palate cleanser but it still more than holds its own as a sipping experience. When used in something like a Ti Punch it is excellent and the extra ABV really shines.

Finish wise it is a good length and fades nicely with a gentle burn despite the ABV. Notes of sugar cane and soft light summer fruits are left behind alongside a sweet linger of the pineapple notes.

A really lovely rum.

The above link to the Harold and Hansa store is well worth a look beyond this rum. They import Rum da Agricola into the UK and do an excellent job.