An Interview with Edgar Harden – The Old Spirits Company

An Interview with Edgar Harden Old Spirits Company by the fat rum pirateA while back I reviewed a Royal Navy rum from prior to Black Tot Day.  I was able to do this by buying a sample from The Old Spirits Company.

The Old Spirits Company is ran by spirits and cocktail enthusiast Edgar Harden.  It offers buyers the chance to buy scarce and hard to find bottlings from years gone by.  The Old Spirits Company sells aged spirits as in bottled a long time ago rather than distilled a long time ago.  Though in some instances both does apply!

The company turns the concept of auctions on their head and offer any prospective consumer the chance to buy a bottle at a pre determined price. On a “first come, first served” basis.

At present Edgar has a number of interesting bottlings of rum and other spirits.  He is particularly interested and specialises in obtaining defunct and obscure spirits which are no longer produced or have fell out of general circulation.  

I would recommend joining his mailing list and gaining access to the site so you can behold his many treasures.  Edgar also sources and supplies rare and old spirits to the trade as well as offering bottlings on his companies website.  

I recently sent Edgar a few questions to answer as I know very little about the vintage spirits world.  I figured he might have a few answers…..

1. When did you first get the idea to launch a shop dealing solely in older/vintage bottlings?

In 2015, when I was establishing and launching the Old Spirits Company (OSC) through the proper channels.

2.  What experience dOld Spirits Company Interview with Edgar Harden by the fat rum pirateo you have in the drinks industry?

Prior to establishing the OSC I had none, other than as a frequenter of cocktail bars for about 20 years.

3.  How do you source your bottles?

I buy from private collections.

4.  Why did you decide to launch an online shop rather than just sell these bottlings at auction? Or on the many online auctions?

If all I wanted to do was sell bottles using an online auction platform then essentially I would just be a picker with dusties on Ebay. I think more highly of the material than that and like to present it in a way that reflects its cultural worth be that through quality photography, proper cataloguing, my website or my newsletter.

Old Spirits Company Interview with Edgar Harden by the fat rum pirateI enjoy the contact that I have with clients. Our shared enthusiasm provides me with momentum to further develop my business. I also exhibit and speak at trade shows like BCB, Imbibe Live, Boutique Bar Show, Prague Bar Show, Perfect Serve, Bar Institute and for the first time this July, Tales of the Cocktail.

5.  What is the current state of the vintage bottlings market?

The vintage bottlings market is robust. There is great breadth and depth of interest in virtually every type and brand of spirit. I am always reminded of this when my latest bizarre find flies off the shelf. 1920 Advocaat or Ned Kelly-shaped decanter of Port, anybody?

6.  Which spirits are the most sought after?

Vintage American Whiskies, like their contemporary counterparts, are highly sought after. Pricing for them is out of sync with that for bottles in most other categories except for Cognac and Absinthe. Kina Lillet, the essential ingredient for Ian Fleming’s Vesper cocktail, is a notable exception.

7.  Which spirits are becoming more popular?

Happily, people are recognizing the merits of Vermouth, Amari and fortified wines. These rich and complex liquids, more than those in any other class of spirits, reflect the positive, yet unintended result of bottle aging.

Oxidization, different decay rates of botanical distillates and the mellow aging of caramel define the distinct personalities of these classic products. As their flavors increase over time, smaller quantities are needed, meaning that bottles last longer.

8.  Have you ever been offered something and questioned its validity? Are there many fakes or counterfeits around?

I have not been offered any outright fakes, but condition is sometimes an issue, and that is an equally compelling reason not buy a bottle. The area of vintage spirits in which I specialize – off the beaten track types of spirits and brands and historic cocktail ingredients – are the least likely to be faked. There are problems in the arena of high-ticket items, as there are with wines, like Pappy, Japanese, Malts, etc.

9.  Do you ever keep certain bottlings for yourself?  Do you have a large collection? Ever tempted to open a bottle…….or six?

For a long time I did not hold back anything – a choice, but I needed to recoup my initial investment in stock and satisfy customers’ needs. Now I do keep special bottlings, or at least ones that I deem to be special, and wish that I had not sold some treasures, like all of my Kina Lillet. Amongst my keepers are old Canadian bottlings, especially from the now universally defunct old Vancouver distilleries. Very old Gins and Vodkas and random other bottlings that sp[rike my fancy also end up in the private collection, like a Sunoty bottle in the shape of the Empire State Building, complete with plastic King Kong!

Generally speaking I don’t open bottles unless they are earmarked for a tasting or do not have a label or are otherwise unattractive in some way, such as if they have a low level or are really dirty. A 1950s Wynand Fockink Cherry Liqueur was a recent eye opener; the Dutch have always made such fine fruit cordials and this brand has recently been resurrected by Lucas Bols who bought them and used their stills to make their own products for many years.

10.  Have you any plans to move into the modern classics market? By that I mean those bottlings that almost instantly become “collectors” items selling out on the day of release?

I do buy modern classics and new products that I think are great for tucking away. Tanqueray rereleases, Martini Riserva Ambrato and Rubino, Gran Classico and St. George’s Terrior, amongst others will stand the test of time.

 11.  In the rum world bottlings by the likes of Velier and Samaroli are becoming highly sought after.  These aren’t old bottlings but are aged spirits and can be very rare.  Do you think these bottlings will hold their value?

The prices that some of these bottles are reaching now seem very high to me, although we have seen this happen with the Hanyu Playing Card Series and Brora 30YO, distilled 1972, and these prices continue to rise, so it is possible that the same will happen with the likes of Caroni, Velier, Samaroli, etc.

Competitive collecting and fashion have come to play larger roles than ever in informing which spirits soar in price, but this does not always mean that the anointed are the best, viz. Pappy! For those bottlings of the highest quality I think that it is unlikely that the market for them will fall.

12.  I always ask this as its a rum related site – What are your favourite rums?

Black Tot Navy Rum Review by the fat rum pirateThese days I am drinking Navy Flagon Rum from the 1950s at 57%, pretty fabulous stuff undiluted and just enough time has passed to take the edge off. Also, 1930s St. James from Martinique, same classic square bottle back then and magnificent quality – the scent is so heady; if you close your eyes it’s not too hard to imagine that you’re standing in the middle of a cane field.

13.  And finally (and it doesn’t have to be rum related) What is your favourite spirit and cocktail?

If I could only have one spirit, then it would be a high-proof London Dry Gin, narrowly edging out Chartreuse and Bourbon. My favourite cocktail is a Vesper made with vintage Kina Lillet, Wyborowa and Gordon’s at 47.3% — discarded Sicilian Lemon twist.

Well thanks very much for that Edgar – really interesting and insightful stuff and a nice little departure in content for the site.  I hope you all enjoyed this piece.

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  • Habitation Velier Hampden 2010 HLCF

    Habitation Velier Hampden 2010 HLCF Rum Review by the fat rum pirateHabitation Velier have bottled a Pure Single Rum from the Hampden Estate in Jamaica. In actual fact they’ve now actually bottled three different expressions from the Hampden Estate.  I’m a little behind the times I’m afraid.

    Released in 2016 this particular release is now particularly difficult to find.  It comes in the increasingly familiar Habitation Velier presentation box.  Which shows a drawing of each still the rum was distilled on.  It is also chock a block with detailed information on what the rum actually is.  No fairy stories here just cold hard facts.

    Hampden HLCF retailed at around the £70-80 mark here in the UK for a 70cl bottle. The rum was bottled at Cask strength – 68.5% ABV.  I’m not totally sure what the HLCF actually stands for but I do have the following information to share.

    Hampden HLCF identifies that the spirit has an ester count of between 550 one of the highest in Hampden’s rum.  Esters contribute a lot to a rums aroma and flavour. A typical Jamaican rum Wray and Nephew Overproof for example has a ester count of between 100-200.

    The rum has been aged for six years from 2010 to 2016.  It is 100% Pot Still distillate.  It is also the first Cask Strength bottling to be released by Hampden (in partnership with Velier).  The rum has been also been entirely aged at Hampden Estate.  It has an Angels Share of 40%.  Also re-assuringly on the bottle we are advised the rum is “Sugar Free” meaning on additional sugar has been added to the rum.

    This rum sold out fairly quickly once it got a score of 91 from Serge at WhiskyFun.  Having tried this rum I am not at al surprised it suited Serge’s palate.  Anyway enough of other peoples opinions…lets see how I found this Jamaican rum.

    Habitation Velier Hampden HLCF Rum Review by the fat rum pirateIn the glass the Hampden HLCF is a golden brown colour – an almost classic “young-ish” rum colour if you like.  It has a very slight “murkiness” to it.

    The nose is undoubtedly Jamaican and unrefutably Hampden.  Hampden Gold turned up to eleven.  The ABV (almost 70%) is big so you would expect a lot of alcohol – boozy the nose is definitely all the way there.

    But there is no mistaking the distinct aromas which eminate from this Pot Still Jamaican rum.  They are huge.  Funkier than George Clinton.  It has everything you might expect – black bananas, pineapple, stewed fruits, juicy raisins and some really sweet almost minty refreshing notes.  I might well have mistaken this for a Long Pond.

    It is intense.  Think Foursquare 2013 compared to Rum Sixty Six.  Yes it is that much different to Hampden Gold or even say Appleton Signature-V/X.

    This is the highest ester filled rum Hampden have ever bottled.  It is as Velier have noted a “world premiere”.

    Sipped even at full strength it is without doubt one of the most flavourful spirits you will likely ever encounter.  Whilst the alcohol burn is high at full strength you can still taste enough of the spirit to know this is something quite awesome and ground breaking.

    Dialling it down with a little water is called for unless you want to take very tiny and infrequent sips.  This is so good and I’m so greedy that just wasn’t going to happen.

    All the flavours promised on the nose come shining through onto the inital entry.  The rum is very intense, very “heavy” but also sweet.  This is what you get from Tropical ageing.  A more intense, more dense and more flavourful spirit.Habitation Velier Hampden HLCF Rum Review by the fat rum pirate

    It is bursting with sweet fruits, heavy notes of tangy bourbon ageing and despite being only 6 years old – it has the most mellow of finishes.  Its almost as if you get all the burn up front along with the intense flavour bomb, so by the time it comes to the finish your taste buds have taken in so much they just want to fall asleep and nod off.  They just want to enjoy that fuzzy, warming mouthfeel of the lemon zests and the tangy freshness of the sweet herbal/grassy notes.  Which never seems to leave your mouth.  The finish is super long.

    These Habiation Velier releases are firmly aimed at the rum geek or aficionado.  If you think Zacapa and DRE are the bench marks of truly great rum this Hampdden will offend you in the extreme.

    Yorkie chocolate bars in the UK were once marketed with the slogan “not for girls” – I wouldn’t be quite so offensive and say women won’t enjoy this rum.  However your more casual or sweetened rum drinker will struggle with a rum such as this.

    At times the Habiation Velier releases have been more educational than actually enjoyable.  The unaged Port Mourant wasn’t the greatest rum I’ve ever had and the WP 502 was no real extension on the distilleries own Rum Bar Overproof.

    However, it would be stupid to complain about such rums being made available.  It seems that Luca Gargano is convincing producers such as Richard Seale to release rum so far out of their usual comfort zone, it is almost akin to him being forced to add sugar.

    Funkier than George Clinton.

  • Rum-Bar Rum Cream

    Rum Bar Rum Cream Review by the fat rum pirateRum-Bar Rum Cream from Worthy Park Estate, Jamaica.  Until recently only rums and spiced rums have featured for review on the site.

    With Christmas upon us I figured, we may as well continue the festive theme of the Rumvent Calendar with a liqueur!

    Whisky based liqueurs such as Baileys are very popular in the UK, especially in the run up to Christmas.  Most Supermarkets discount them and price-wars frequently break out. A more “premium” Deluxe Baileys was released recently believe it or not!

    For whatever reason Rum Creams, so popular in Jamaica for example have failed to penetrate the UK market.  I can’t think of single Rum Cream which is readily available in the UK – Rum Chata perhaps.  Kahlua is about the only liqueur I can come up with that even has rum in it.

    With Bailey’s being so dominant in the market it is perhaps unreasonable to expect UK based companies to seek out rum for their liqueurs when they have so much whisky on their doorstep.  Thankfully this Rum Cream is readily available in the UK from Tesco link here and from here.  Only downside is they are only 200ml unlike my 750ml bottle from Jamaica.

    Rum-Bar Rum Cream made its UK debut at the UK Rumfest in October and completely sold out!  So what exactly is all the fuss about?

    Rum-Bar Rum Cream is a mixture of 100% real cream, Rum-Bar rum (White Overproof) and some secret ingredients.  It is bottled at 15% ABV and it comes in a tall, brown almost opaque bottle.  The labelling is clear and uncluttered and it has the Rum-Bar logo prominently displayed.

    Now this “review” may be a little different to my standard rum reviews.  I really don’t have much experience of any Rum Creams or liqueur’s.  So the score that stands today may change over time.

    Rum Bar Rum Cream Review by the fat rum pirateRum-Bar Rum Cream has to be taken for what it is a sweet, relatively weak (unless you start drinking it by the pint glass) after dinner kind of drink.  This is not a premium rum.  For those familiar with Baileys or Irish Cream in general the appearance will not come as a surprise.  The rum cream has a thick consistency and is a light brown almost mocha like cream colour.

    The nose is very sweet – full on brown sugar and some nice notes of Vanilla and fresh cream.  Despite being bottled at only 15% ABV you can still smell the rum in the nose.  The use of the Overproof gives the cream an extra layer of intensity – you can smell rum without a doubt.  If you are familiar with the Rum-Bar Overproof you will notice hints of its pungency being carried nicely along with the sweet caramel notes of the spices.

    In the glass as well as being a “chocolate milk” like colour it is also very viscous – thick and creamy as a good rum cream should be.  The taste upfront is very much like sweet milkshake a kind of mix of vanilla and chocolate.  However, as you sample it more you notice the distinct notes of the Overproof – the slight vegetal notes and the more intense flavours – giving this Rum Cream a very authentic kick.

    I’ve actually added some Rum-Bar Overproof to this Rum Cream on occasions but I like things to be very boozy!

    There is a certain authenticity about the flavour of this rum cream.  It doesn’t taste at all artificial – the spices are subtle leaving a nice layered sweet yet punchy Rum Cream.RUMCREAMUPDATE

    Easily the best Rum Liqueur/Cream I have tried so far in my admittedly very limited experience!  Top Stuff and well worth seeking out in time for Christmas.  This could easily get re-scored higher once I have sampled more of the competition.

    AND just to make things even better, they are updating the presentation soon to something a little like this.

    4 stars

     

     

  • Bacardi Carta Fuego

    Bacardi Carta Fuego rum review by the fat rum pirateBacardi Carta Fuego – Red Spiced Rum to give it it’s full moniker.  In 2011 Bacardi moved away from creating weird and wonderful Flavoured Rums and introduced their competitor in the Spiced Rum market – Bacardi Oakheart.

    If things had went to plan then we would all be at least familiar with, if not drinking an Oak And Coke.  As many of you will be puzzled by this, its safe to say that things didn’t go quite as planned for Bacardi as Oakheart failed to make a major dent in Captain Morgan’s Musket and The Kraken seem to have the Dark end of the Spiced rum market all sewn up.  That’s not to mention Sailor Jerry and the numerous copy-cats which have sprung up in the wake of the success of the now deceased Tattoo Artist at the tail end of the “noughties” (00’s).

    So here we are in 2015 and Bacardi have obviously decided to try and chip into another market.  Online discussion has revealed that a Cinnamon Flavoured whisky liqueur called Fireball is particularly popular in the US.  Is this Bacardi’s attempt at getting a slice of that market?  It has been noted, again online that this has a distinictive Cinnamon like flavour.

    Carta Fuego has been brought to market at the same time as the global re-branding of nearly all of Bacardi’s lines.  As a result the slightly squared bar room style bottle has the new Bacardi logo.  A 70cl bottle at 40% ABV (Oakheart is 35%)) and will se you back around £18-20 in the UK.

    Bacardi’s marketing angle is that this is a Red Spiced Rum, made with rum which is aged for one year. Mixed with a blend of secrets flavours and natural spices.  It is “bold and smooth capturing tropical flavours”. It is to be enjoyed either as a shot with 3 drops of Tabasco sauce(?) or mixed with cola.

    Bacardi Carta Fuego rum review by the fat rum pirateI appreciate that Bacardi are trying the Spiced Rum route again but coming in at a different angle.  Legally in the UK this rum can be sold as a Spiced Rum however I note Bacardi also add Spirit Drink to the front label.  Different territories have different rules on what can constitute rum.  In the UK all rum must be over 37.5% ABV to be legally classed as rum.

    I’ve yet to read a serious review of the Carta Fuego.  All I have really seen is press releases.  Obviously there is little criticism of the drink to be seen in such articles.

    I recently ran the Carta Fuego through the Hydrometer Test and the result of 92 g/L caused a bit of a stir amongst the Rum Community.  A 330ml can of Regular Coke contains 109 g/L.  So we are talking some serious sugar.  Still it is a Spiced Rum and very few Spiced Rums out there come up 100% “clean” on the Hydrometer Tests.  Again being fair I do not expect them to.

    The Carta Fuego is quite a bright reddish brown.  It is definitely not ridiculously artificial looking red like soda for example.  Nosed, the spirit is very sweet.  It smells like Candy Floss (Cotton Candy).  It’s not hugely pungent but you do get a lot of sweet sickly toffee and sugar notes on the nose.  I’m not really noticing the Cinnamon though so perhaps I have been misinformed.  What I am noticing in the nose which is disappointing me is the familiar slightly oily faux oakiness of the Oakheart.  It reminds me again of Bacardi Black. Not a good thing.

    When poured and re-sealed you really begin to appreciate just how sweet and sticky this rum is.  It’s almost liqueur territory.  The metal screw cap and the top of the bottle quite quickly becomes clogged and sticky.  This is not something I’m looking for!

    I’m trying to keep an open mind but Bacardi have offered me little as to what flavour this rum is supposed to be taking on.  This leaves me less than enthused.  For those not familiar with my writing, please read my other Bacardi reviews – a Bacardi Basher I am not and when credit is due they receive it.  With such wonderfully named flavoured rums I’m surprised they can’t at least put on the bottle what “flavours” are contained in this rum.

    We’ll start tasting the Fuego with a shot as advised on the rear of the bottle.  However, we’ll give the Tabasco a miss.  When poured into a shooter glass the rum takes on a more subdued almost dull brownish colour.  I’ve seen bars advertising shots of this already – so lets see how it goes.

    Bacardi Carta Fuego rum review by the fat rum pirateAs a shot it does what its meant to do.  It gives a sweet yet slightly boozy kick.  The finish isn’t particularly long and the spirit tingles on the lips just long enough to satisfy an 18-21 year old that they are getting something which will get them drunk.  To be fair if they get “shots” of this straight out of the bottle then I will say they will at least be getting a drink likely to do that.  Most “shots” which are usually sold by attractive young ladies to groups of drunken young men are about as alcoholic as a Foster’s Radler.

    When sipped you don’t really get much more than the sweetness.  There is a perhaps a hint of Cinnamon or spice but nothing to get too excited about.  The “smokiness” spoke of on the bottle to me is just the same nasty base rum which is used in the Oakheart.  I really don’t like the aftertaste left by this young rum.  It’s rough and grainy and really not very nice at all..

    Mixing this with Cola gives you a very sweet drink.  Even with Diet Cola.  It really just reminds me of the Oakheart only with the Vanilla and oak notes removed and replaced with vast amounts of sugar.  It’s far too sweet to enjoy.

    This is really nasty stuff and to try and pick out individual notes and attribute them to this rum really would be a bit of an insult to the other rums I have reviewed.  It’s much like a cup of tea or coffee when you slip with the sugar and end up with a gloopy mess in the bottom and a drink which tastes solely off sugar.

    This is best avoided.  If you want a Spiced Rum then try Bristol, Foursquare or Pussers Spiced.  If you are seeking out Bacardi products buy the Bacardi 8, the Reserva or even the White Superior.

    0.5 stars

  • Penny Blue XO Single Estate Mauritian Rum (4th Batch)

    Penny Blue XO Rum Review by the fat rum pirateMauritian Rum is a new one on me.  I have in the past tried Pink Pigeon Spiced Rum.  Penny Blue hails from the same distillery as Pink Pigeon – The Medine Distillery.  However, Penny Blue promises an altogether more sophisticated and grown up experience.

    Regulars readers of the blog may be familiar with the press release I placed on the site a couple of weeks back.  By way of thanks for promoting this venture (which is done in conjunction with the wonderfull Berry Bros and Rudd) I was sent a sample of the 4th batch of this Single Estate Mauritian Rum.

    In all honesty I pride the site as much on the standard of photography as I do the standard of the writing.  I like the consistency of the photography.  Unfortunately, for the purpose of this review I have had to deviate slightly and use the stock photo I was sent with the original press release as the main photo.

    I have of course took a photo of the sample bottle I received.  For review purposes I can’t really comment on the presentation beyond what have I seen in photos.  It looks pretty good.  I like the stubby bottle and the wax seal on what I presume to be a cork enclosure.  The Penny Blue branding etc looks all very slick.  My sample bottle looks slightly less chic but never mind.

    I don’t usually review samples sent to me.  For starters I do not actively seek such things so very few have come my way.  If like many of my contemporaries I was more vocal or was wanting to dip my toes in more commercial waters I’m sure I could receive a lot more freebies.  I don’t feel the need to do this.  Most important for me is to remain 100% independent.  Whilst I will involve myself with rum companies etc I will certainly not entertain the idea of softball reviews to garner more and more free product.  I can afford to buy my own rum.

    Still I had done the company a favour in helping promote their most recent release and they had sent me a sample in return.  Whether this was indeed for me to write a review or whether it was simply a thank you I don’t know.  It may have been as simple as trying to encourage me to buy a bottle.

    Regardless of motive I figured I may as well at least try the Penny Blue in review conditions.  Treat it as if I was going to publish a review.  I’m always slightly suspicious of rums with back stories to them.  Penny Blue however has a relatively uncomplicated tale which explains why it is named as it is.

    Prinited in Mauritius in 1847, the Penny Blue stamp immediately became a collectors item because of its inscription.  A mistake by the engraver resulted in it reading “Post Office” rather then the usual “Post Paid”.  There are believed to be only 12 such stamps still in existence.  The Penny Blue stamp is as rare and highly collectible as this small batch rum.

    A simple and believable story.  The Medine Distillery has been producing rum from its own sugar cane plantation (all housed on a single site) since 1926.  The partnership formed between them and Berry Bros and Rudd, who have bottled some amazing rums on their own label adds an extra layer of interest and credibility.

    So far so good, this really doesn’t seem like one of those pop up “Premium Rums” that appear from far flung corners of the globe with incredulously spun tales of their rich heritage and history, despite being completely only five minutes old…

    Another note in the press release states that Penny Blue is “small batch vatted, natural in colour and un-chill filtered”.  They also add “no artificial sweetening is involved in the process”.  Which is again, all good stuff for those who like pure unadulterated rum.  A hydrometer test also reveals that Penny Blue has no detectible added sugar.  Kudos to the Medine Distillery for this.

    Penny Blue XO Batch 4 is available internationally except for the US from the 1st July 2015.  A limited release of 10,000 bottles which should retail at around £40 in the UK.  It is bottled at 43.3% ABV and retail bottles are 70cl/700ml.  The oldest rum in this batch is 11 years old and the youngest is 4 years old.  The rum is matured in Whisky and Bourbon casks and then vatted together to blend.  The rum is produced on a continuous column still so it isn’t as small batch as pot still production.

    Let’s put it to the test.

    Penny Blue Single Estate XO Rum revie by the fat rum pirateIn the sample bottle I received, the rum is a light gold almost straw like colour.  When poured into the glass it looks slightly darker and more brown from the side but again straw like from above.

    The nose is quite striking.  Although the press release does not state so I think this is a molasses based rum.  Despite this the rum is very light and sweet.  It reminds me very much of Barbancourt 5 Star.  In many ways it has a lot in common with a light Bajan rum but the nose has an extra complexity and intensity.  Citrus and a little orange peel as well as vanilla and a little white pepper.

    Sipped, again the rum displays the almost cognac like silkiness of Barbancourt.  It’s very citrusy and slightly dry, mouthwatering.  It is smooth and has a lasting and refreshing finish.  The oak ageing is very evident but the rum still remains very fresh and vibrant tasting.  It is for me beautifully aged.  Any more and it could have been in danger of being over oaked.  The oak and spice combines wonderfully with the rich fruit notes and the zesty peel.

    Despite only having a 50ml sample I was still able to sample the Penny Blue on two separate occasions.  On both occasions I found myself enjoying this well balanced rum a great deal.  This is very good stuff and I am very pleased I was given the opportunity to try this rum, as it is a rum I would have overlooked.

    I will certainly be looking out for more rums from the Medine Distillery.

    4.5 stars

  • Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum

    Walter Hicks 125 Navy rum review by the fat rum pirateWalter Hicks 125 Navy Rum hails from St Austell, Cornwall.  Produced by St Austell Brewery who are perhaps better known for producing Tribute Cornish Pale Ale, Korev Cornish Lager alongside Bad Habit and Cardinal Syn real ales.

    Products from the St Austell brewery are not only to be found in the South of England.  The Nicholson pub chain operated by Mitchell and Butler stock a number of their ales and have exclusivity on a couple.

    It is very likely that you have not come across this rum before.  The crazy tax laws of the UK it makes it pretty pricy to try and market “overproof” rum such as Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum.  As a result commercial domestic bottlers tend to stick to 37.5% or 40% with a few notable exceptions.

    The proof of this rum is also likely to be quite puzzling.  Nowadays we use the more standard US “double proofing” if you like.  So if something is 50% ABV is it 100 proof, 40% ABV is 80 proof and so on.  Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum is actually a fearsome 71.4% which would equate to around 142 proof.  I presume when the rum was named it was “proofed” using the then UK measure (we have since gone down the ABV route only rather than proof) of 1.75 of ABV so 71.4% ABV x 1.75 = 124.95 proof giving us Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum.

    The rum is a 7 year old Demerara blend. Matured in the UK.  It retails at £40 per bottle (multi buy gets you discount as well).  It is likely quite readily available in Cornwall in independent off licenses but I’ve certainly never seen a bottle of it for sale up North anywhere. Despite the very retro appearance (similar to the Rum Story’s Jefferson’s 1785 Dark Rum) it is still in production and if you do grow fond of this it is easily obtainable online direct from St Austell Brewery Shop.

    Another thing which is probably puzzling you is how light this Demerara rum appears.  Well if ever a rum shows just how much caramel is added to Demerara rums this is it.  Reminiscent of the Jamaican and Guyanese rums from Mezan.  I would say without doubt this this has very little colouring and only light filtration. In terms of looks it is a million miles away from all other Navy rums I can think of.Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Unlike other Navy rums Walter Hicks 125 does not purport to be a “Royal Navy” rum.  There is no back story on how this was once drunk by sailors in the Royal Navy.  It is named very simply after the founder of St Austell Brewery and is really a Navy style rum.

    So what do we have then? Well in the glass as mentioned already it is a very natural looking colour its very pale and for many may be slightly unexciting.

    The nose is surprisingly very sweet – very intense sweet molasses and caramel carried along with a slightly nose tingling hit of boozy fumes. Reminiscent in many ways to Lemon Hart 151 but not quite as raisined or fruity.  Even at such a high ABV it is almost sickly sweet on the nose.  Beneath this though is a slightly funky almost Jamaican Pot Still/Overproof funkiness.  I like the “booze” on the nose.

    Sipped at full ABV is not really the greatest of ideas.  It leads very quickly on the sweet caramel and chocolate notes. This quickly disappears into a very hot and difficult to manage alcohol burn. Which leaves your tongue tingling and will numb it if you take too big a sip.  A drop of water should determine whether I want to persist with sipping this rum.

    A drop does little really. I add a splash and using my hydrometer I bring it down to around 46% ABV.  The water certainly helps with the sweeter almost cloying notes of the rum.  Surprisingly it does little to eradicate the “boozy” elements of this rum.  Which I don’t mind at all.

    Walter Hick 125 Navy Rum Review by the fat rum pirateIt’s not a massively unpleasant sipper with a little water but it lacks any real complexity. Walter Hicks is full of “menace” and is quite spicy but it doesn’t really have a great deal of definition or individual flavours.  Hot, sweet and very boozy.

    When I bought this I figured I would use it a similar manner to Pussers Gunpowder Proof and Lemon Hart 151.  As a mixer with cola.  I didn’t expect much sipping wise (I was surprised to learn it was a 7 year old blend).  As a sipper it is average and a bit of a mood sipper (for when you want to imagine you’re a shipwrecked one legged pirate).

    Mixed is where Walter Hicks shows its teeth.  It’s not as complex as Pussers Gunpowder nor is it is rich and fruity as Woods 100 Navy Rum.  However, it overs a less complicated more straightforward mix of menacingly strong grog and a nice sweet overlay.

    It’s not classic Demerara – it is far too boozy, almost taking it to Pot Still Jamaican funk levels at times.  It’s not a rum I would wholeheartedly recommend to everyone.

    It is good though.  It works great mixed with cola.  The strong alcohol and boozy flavours really shine and contrast against the cola.  Sweeter caramel and toffee notes meld nicely in the mix giving an all too easy to drink rum and coke.

    This is well worth a try but beware of what it is.  Refined it is not.

    4 stars

     

     

     

  • Plantation Guyana 2005

    Plantation 2005 Guyana rum review by the fat rum pirateA 2005 Guyana vintage from Plantation distilled on the iconic Port Mourant pot still.

    Plantation rum should be familiar to most readers.  They are not shy when it comes to promoting themselves.  Their Stiggins’ Fancy Pineapple Infused Rum, has been virtually impossible to ignore over the past couple of years.

    Plantation is a part of Cognac Ferrand and is overseen by Alexandre Gabriel.  Plantation divide opinion perhaps more than any other rum bottler in the world.  They are not afraid to fight their own corner as has been seen in articles such as this.

    Their rums are hugely popular and multiple award winning. Particularly at the Miami Rum Renaissance.  They practically exist as resident gold medallists.  They do however get quite a lot of scorn from those seeking rum without additives.

    I like to take a more reasoned approach to the Plantation bottling “experiments”.  Whilst I don’t always enjoy their offerings (their Jamaican 2000 is particularly poor) I have tasted rums from them which have certainly been well worth the price tag.  At times I can appreciate the different profiles they bring to the rum world.  At other times however, they can be a bit of a sugary mess.

    Plantation’s rums are not expensive, in the main.  This 2005 vintage bottled at a hefty 45% ABV is around £40-45 in the UK.  Which is a common price for the rums which are released in this taller style of bottle, under the “Old Reserve” banner.  The presentation is classy and familiar.

    Finding actual information on the rum is pretty tricky. So to quote Plantation

    Plantation Guyana is the only rum in the Plantation range to have sugar cane syrup as its raw material. From a long fermentation it is then distilled in a Charente alembic pot still and finally aged in bourbon casks a fine balance is earned”. 

    I have tried a good few Port Mourant’s from independent bottlers.  I am expecting this to have more in common with a more commercial bottling –  Pusser’s 15 Year Old.  That rum is also a Port Mourant.  It also according to the Hydro tests has added sugar.Plantation Guyana 2005 rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Which is something I would like to see Plantation NOT do with at least one of their rums. Unfortunately I suspect that day will not come!  They are selling what a lot of people want to buy.  Fair play I guess.  Let us move onto the assessment of this rum.

    In the glass the rum is quite a surprise – it isn’t too dark, it is a light reddish/brown. Which is very different to how it appears in the bottle.

    The nose has a nice balance of familiar aniseed and liquorice notes found in  Port Mourant rums.  Nice slightly charred oak with vanilla and a very upfront and hard to miss “Demerara” twang to it.  It remind me of the Pusser’s 15.  This seems less aggressive though and better balanced.  There is a slightly briny sea salt air to the rum, which drifts in and out.

    Sipped the extra ABV is immediately noticeable.  I wasn;t expecting quite so much punch from a Plantation.  It takes a couple of sips for your palate and taste buds to adapt.  It’s very strong tasting and big on flavour.

    There is a lot of complexity to this – deep rich aniseed, alongside juicy plump raisins. A spicy slightly heated profile. White pepper and lots of spicy bourbon almost “mash” and oak.

    It is slightly sweet. I dare say I would possibly enjoy it slightly more with less or no added sugar?

    It would be unfair though to count that against this particular rum.  At £40 it offers a really good alternative to the El Dorado range.  I dare say it shows a lot more the Port Mourant in its full glory, than the 12 or 15 year old El Dorado.

    Plantation 2005 Guyana new bottle designPlantation’s rums are undergoing a bit of a makeover.  Bottles of this rum have been appearing which are as pictured.  I’m not entirely sure if the “juice” is exactly the same.  It likely isn’t the exact same “batch”.  I doubt though it will be very different.  Some of Plantation’s rums are very much the same year on year.

    Whilst I don’t always enjoy these rums. I am happy to give them credit when they do come up with something good.  I think that the character of the Port Mourant Pot Still is captured well with this rum.  I prefer it to Pusser’s 15 Year Old (by a tiny bit).  I like the oak notes and the fact the sugar hasn’t masked the power and oomph of the original distillate.

    It’s more challenging and complex than a lot of Plantation rums.  In many ways packs a bit more complexity than the El Dorado range (certainly upto the 12 year old anyway).

    Good stuff and well worth a spin.

    4 stars

     

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