The Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years

The Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateThe Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years. Here we have the second of the two very recently released “Hummingbird” series rums from Dutch Independent bottler The Duchess.

And it is fair to say that this one is bound to pique interest. Not only is it from the currently very “trendy” Foursquare Rum Distillery it also has an age statement which will grab peoples attention.

There aren’t that many Foursquare Rum Distillery bottlings around that have an age statement above 14 years. In fact off the top of my head I can’t recall an official release being any older than 14 years old? So for this one to be aged for 18 years will definitely appeal to the enthusiast.

It also leads to a few questions around the rums provenance. Luckily The Duchess are an Independent Bottler, who want to be as transparent and clear with their customers as possible. So I have pretty much all the answers luckily. Firstly though we’ll take a look at the presentation and then we’ll get into the more technical aspects of this rums production.

As noted this rum is part of the “Hummingbird” series. So each bottle is adorned with a picture of a different Hummingbird. This time we have one native to the island of Barbados. Using my extensive knowledge of birds, formulated by typing in “Barbados Hummingbird” to Google I can confirm with a degree of 50/50 certainty that this is the tiny Antilean Crested Hummingbird.

Once again the Dutch artist Hans Dillesse is on hand with the very impressive artwork. The Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years has another impressive design and 3/4 bottle is an impressive sight. As is the information provided on the bottle. This rum retails at around €100 and is available only in Europe. I would recommend the following store Zeewijck in the Netherlands. They still have some in stock a lot of other stores are now sold out. So you may wish to move quickly if you want a bottle.

So let’s get all the technical details about this rum out of the way before I can start the fun part. Firstly this is a Single Cask bottling of Pot/Column distilled rum

from Foursquare Rum Distillery. The rum was distilled back in 2001 and was initially aged in ex-bourbon casks for 8 years in Barbados. The cask was then moved to Europe were it completed the remaining 10 years of ageing. Upon concluding the ageing process it was bottled in 2019 at 56.9% ABV Cask Strength which yielded just 205 bottles in total. So this is as limited as things usually get. Especially at a price point of €100.

Right that’s quite enough of that and I’m dying to get my beak into this……..(see what I did there?)

First up in the glass we have a light-ish golden brown liquid. Upon nosing I’m in very familiar and very pleasant territory. This is your class Foursquare Pot/Column ex-bourbon cask profile. Think Rum Sixty Six or the 2004,2005 and 2007 Exceptional Cask Series releases.

So on the nose we have wonderful notes of coconut, banana, a touch of marzipan, lashings of vanilla and some very nice Bourbon-esque woody spices. It is all balanced beautifully and is very inviting.

Sipped, The Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years is very woody. Much more than I detected on the nose. It’s pretty spicy as well with lots of ginger and some slightly tannin like notes. It’s pretty intense and very dry on the palate.

There is little by way of sweetness on the first couple of sips. Your palate definitely takes a little time to adjust to the woody-ness of this spirit.

It gets a little easier, a lot softer on the palate as you sip more. I’m getting a smoky tobacco note and some slightly bitter chocolate/cocoa. This mingles on the mid palate with ginger, a touch of leather and some still very spicy wood notes.

The Duchess Barbados Distilled at Foursquare Aged 18 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateFinish wise this is a long, complex and very dry finish. There is a fair amount of heat and the levels of wood are just within my comfort zone. A lot of what I am stating I notice has been echoed by Ivar over at Rum Revelations in his review.

This is one of the driest and most wood/age led rums, I have had from Foursquare/IB’s. Had it been aged 18 years in the tropics I think it would have been like chewing on bark. As it stands the Continental Ageing has kept this within the parameters to still produce a great rum.

Definitely though not a rum for a sweet tooth though.

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  • Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World

    Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World

    The rum world is finally being forced into a conversation it has managed to sidestep for decades: Geographic Indications (GIs).

    For some producers this is a welcome step towards clarity. In fact, it is those producers who are largely calling for change. For others, it would appear to be catastrophic to their very existence.

    That is of course if you believe their heavily marketed and distorted hyperbole. These producers are certainly not calling for change. Unless of course it can be done in a way which suits their current business model.

    Which strangely enough doesn’t bed itself with what a true GI should look like. It is far more about keeping the Status Quo (no not Rick and Francis) and continuing to fly the flag of colonialism, albeit with revised history and romanticised marketing.

    The problem you see is once you define what Jamaican or Barbados rum actually is, you can’t just improvise around it. Sadly such improvisation has been very profitable.

    Let’s be clear from the start this is the first step in a much larger discussion. There are nuances. There are regional differences. It isn’t all about Jamaica and Barbados. Other regions have already introduced GIs or some form of accreditation that ties their sugar cane products to a framework.

    There are of course, economic realities. If anyone wants to make reference to anything this article may be missing – hold that thought. I’ve got a lot more to say.

    If rum enthusiasts have learnt anything from the “First World Additives in Rum War 2014-2018” it is that the rum world doesn’t change because one rum writer, writes one piece, one time and the whole House of Cards comes crashing down.

    This will not be the only article I write about GIs. This will not be the only time this is mentioned on this website. I won’t just comment on this article in the online rum forums. I won’t ignore the negative responses.

    I’m going into this knowing fully that for some in the industry, at the very least I will be that “annoying little irritant that just won’t go away”

    Much like I did with Hydrometer Tests and Additives I will make this topic “normal” in my little corner of the rum world.

    Will I have a seismic impact on the Rum World overall?

    Will I reach the casual rum drinker?

    Will the Industry change because I’m talking about it?

    Will it balls. Absolutely not. I would be naïve to even dream this is possible.

    Do you know who will take notice of what I am saying though?

    YOU the more regular, more serious, more engaged rum drinker. Enthusiasts and Rum Nerds. People who genuinely care and have a deep interest in Rum.

    Will everyone even agree with my stance? Of course not. If that were going to be the case then it wouldn’t be worth writing about or even discussing. It would be completely unnecessary as the war would already have been won – one way or the other. The discussion would be over.

    Will other rum writers begin writing about the GIs? I certainly hope so. Will this article and subsequent articles on the subject lead to counter arguments and articles opposing my view? Again I hope so. In fact I very much hope so because that is when the fun begins.

    You see it did the last time with Hydrometer Tests and Additives and this is without doubt a far bigger, more far reaching issue than those ever were.

    If anything additives was a footnote to this and something which by the GIs very design, could logically become a far less widespread an issue.

    The very fact that you are reading this shows that you at least care about this topic and most likely rum in general. It doesn’t mean you have to agree with all or even part of what I write. As with all my writing, its not personal and I’m not going to call out individuals.

    “Get back to the GIs Wes”

    OK

    The principle is simple and could have been thought up by a small child. If you put a region’s name on the label, you should meet that region’s standards.

    The fact that this is controversial tells you everything you need to know.

    Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World article by the fat rum pirateWhat GIs Actually Do And Why That Makes People Nervous

    A Geographic Indication is not a marketing slogan. It’s a legal definition.

    It ties a product to:

    • A specific place
    • A defined production process
    • Recognised and agreed traditional methods

    It removes ambiguity and ambiguity has long been one of rum’s most flexible assets.

    For years, parts of the industry have operated in a comfortable grey zone:

    • Bulk rum produced in one country
    • Shipped elsewhere
    • Aged under different conditions
    • Adjusted post-distillation

    Then wrapped in a story about heritage, traditional processes, pirates, fairies and most bizarrely of all – Terroir.

    Yes Terroir from 6,000 miles away. Work that one out.

    Is that illegal? Often no.

    Is it transparent? Also no.

    GIs don’t criminalise creativity. They simply force alignment between the label and reality and that alignment reduces wiggle room.

    The Additive Question: Heritage or Engineering?

    Let’s talk about the sugar bowl. Again………

    Additives in rum are not new. Dosing has historical precedent. No serious person denies that.

    What is new is scale, positioning, and silence.

    In some modern “Premium” expressions, sweetness isn’t a subtle adjustment it’s structural. Flavourings and smoothing agents are used to shape profile consistency and mass appeal. Then the result is marketed as a pure expression of regional craft.

    That’s where the tension lies.

    If a significant portion of a rum’s character comes from post-distillation additions, how honest is it to sell that character as the natural outcome of fermentation, distillation, and tropical maturation in that region?

    A GI forces that question to be answered instead of danced around with fluffy marketing and selective history.

    Some GI frameworks allow limited additives. Others restrict them. The important shift is this: once defined, producers cannot blur the boundary between traditional practice and modern market engineering.

    Yes, that threatens certain business models.

    Largely because once sweetness can’t hide behind storytelling, quality has to stand on its own two feet.

    Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World article by the fat rum pirateAging Abroad: Climate Matters Until It Doesn’t?

    Now to the other uncomfortable topic: aging outside the region of origin.

    Historically, rum travelled not a little but a lot. Barrels were shipped to Europe back to the colonial masters. Climate differences slowed maturation. Losses were lower. Logistics made sense. No argument there.

    What began as necessity has, in some cases, been reframed as luxury.

    Here’s the awkward question:

    If climate meaningfully shapes maturation and every producer will tell you it does when defending tropical aging then how can removing that climate from the equation not matter?

    You cannot simultaneously argue that tropical heat defines regional character and that continental aging preserves it perfectly.

    Both cannot be true.

    Under a strict GI, if you want to sell Jamaican rum, aging in Jamaica becomes part of that identity. The tropical environment isn’t incidental. It is formative.

    That is not anti-innovation. It is definitional consistency and consistency can be very expensive.

    The Real Objection: Constraint

    The resistance to GIs is often framed as a defence of freedom and flexibility. Freedom to do what exactly?

    To experiment? That remains.
    To sweeten? Still possible.
    To age in Europe? No one is stopping you.
    To blend across regions? Go ahead.

    The only constraint is this: don’t market those products as traditional regional expressions if they don’t meet the regional definition.

    That’s not oppression. That’s labelling integrity. Which is frankly long overdue in rum.

    The real discomfort isn’t about creativity being stifled. It’s about geographic branding becoming less elastic. For some brands, elasticity has been the point.

    Why Rum Actually Benefits from GIs

    Rum’s biggest long-term problem isn’t regulation. It’s credibility.

    • Too many inconsistent standards.
    • Too many opaque practices.
    • Too much romance doing the heavy lifting for what should be production quality.

    GIs offer the following corrections

    1. Clarity for Consumers

    If a bottle carries a regional name, that name has enforceable meaning. Trust increases. Confusion decreases.

    2. Protection of Production Identity

    Fermentation styles, still types, raw materials, aging environments these are not aesthetic choices. They define regional character. GIs formalize that definition instead of leaving it to the fluffy marketing departments and pseudo historians.

    3. A Harder Definition of “Premium”

    Premium stops meaning sweeter, older-sounding, or more theatrically narrated. It starts meaning better raw material, better fermentation management, more precise distillation, and maturation done, where the tradition says it should be.

    That shift rewards producers who invest in process rather than post-production polish.

    Not everyone benefits equally from that shift.

    Authenticity vs. Elastic Identity

    At its core, the GI debate asks a simple question:

    Is regional rum a production identity tied to place and method? Or is it a flexible storytelling device?

    If it’s the latter, then resistance makes perfect sense. If it’s the former, then GIs are inevitable.

    Rum cannot simultaneously demand respect as a serious, terroir-driven spirit and insist that geographic definitions remain conveniently fluid.

    Other categories have chosen definition. Rum now has to decide whether it wants to.

    This Is Just the Beginning

    GIs are not flawless. Some regional standards are politically negotiated. Some are compromises. Some will evolve.

    We’ll get into all of that.

    • We’ll examine specific frameworks.Renaissance Distillery Puyama 2018 Single Rum Cognac Cask Raising Glasses Review by the fat rum pirate
    • We’ll look at additive thresholds.
    • We’ll look at aging rules.
    • We’ll talk about the economics.

    The key principle stands though:

    If you use a region’s name, meet its standards.

    • Clarity over mystique.
    • Definition over suggestion.
    • Authenticity over profit-driven flexibility.

    For producers who already operate with transparency, GIs are validation.

    For those who rely on ambiguity, they are disruption.

    The future of rum will depend on which side of that line the industry chooses to stand.

    For the first time, that choice could well be forced and consumers have a lot of a say in this. If they want to.

  • Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros

    Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros rum review by the fat rum pirateJamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros. Independent Whisky Bottlers have a long tradition of putting out some rather decent rum over the years. In fact quite a few of the most respected “Independent Bottlers” of rum are primarily Whisky bottlers.

    Names such as Silver Seal, Cadenhead’s and Duncan Taylor are well known and well established. However, over the past few years as more Whisky enthusiasts are beginning to discover rum – more and more “Whisky” bottlers are turning to rum.

    Now Thompson Bros have only been around since 2016, but over the past couple of years have shown a really good eye for single cask rums, in particular they seem to really enjoy and appreciate the funky style of rum that comes from Jamaica and the heavy style adopted by the now defunct Caroni Distillery, Trinidad.

    Now both styles of rum are extremely popular in Rum Enthusiasts circles. However, over the past few years a particular style.marque of Jamaican Rum has become even more popular.

    As bottlers such as Velier began giving more and more information on bottles “Rum Geeks” began asking more and more questions. Leading to more and more information being made available. Whilst it was known that Jamaican Rum producers such as Hampden and National Rums of Jamaica had different Rum Marques it wasn’t always made clear which marque was being bottled. It also wasn’t common knowledge how many “esters” were present in a bottle of rum.

    Now I’m no Chemist or any kind of Science Geek. I know esters give certain flavours and intensity to alcohol. They supply the funk if you like………..if you want a more scientific explanation of what esters do then I’d read this piece here provided by Rum Auctioneer. It will explain things far better than I ever could! Trust me.

    So what relevance is “high ester rum” in the context of this review? Well this particular JHK (Jamaican Hampden Kelly-Lawson?) is actually a DOK marque. Which stands for Dermot Owen Kelly-Lawson. Who was an owner of Hampden Estate in the 1800’s.

    Now for those unfamiliar with the DOK marque it is Hampden Estates highest ester count rum. With rums produced with this marque clock in at around 1500-1600 esters gr/hlAA. It’s as “funky” as rum gets.

    Now there has been a bit of a debate about the use of these rums and what they were originally intended for. Some will contend they are not really for drinking. This is backed up by their use in perfume and confectionary products. They have also been used as a flavour in alcohol such as Rum Verschnitt – a mix of neutral alcohol and often high ester rum. Designed to re-create Jamaican rum on the cheap…………However a lot of rum enthusiasts get very excited about these rums. Seeking out higher esters and higher proof bottlings………

    Now Thompson Bros have introducted a “ballot” system for a quite a few of their whisky bottlings and limits on how many bottles per person etc. With this rum release they initially opened it as a ballot. I do not think the ballot was for the full outturn of bottles and some may reach retailers soon. Don’t quote me on that though.Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros is a 12 year old rum which was distilled in 2009 and bottled in 2021. It has been released at Cask Strength of 62.1% ABV. From a Single Cask which yielded 322 70cl bottles. it is non-chill filtered and has no colouring or any other additives. It was priced at £58.33 excluding VAT – so £68.54 by the time you add the VAT. So just under £70 for a Cask Strength bottling of DOK. This is 100% Pot Still rum. It has been aged in an ex-bourbon cask.

    Although this isn’t noted as one of Thompson Bros collaborations with Bar Tre the artwork has been provided by their employee Yu Kurahashi

    In the glass Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros has clearly not been messed around with as per the information on the website. It is light in colour of a 12 year old rum suggesting Continental ageing. It is straw/white wine colour.

    The nose is very fruity – strong almost fermented Pineapple Juice, Passion Fruit, Guava and some black banana. It’s not as gluey or as solvent heavy as some Jamaican rums but it still has a good hit of creosote and nail varnish.

    Notes of vanilla and some oaky spice and a touch of Scotch Whisky also come through. It’s got a touch of smoke and some light herbal notes.

    This rum is as funky as you will find but it has a really nice balance to it. It’s not over the top to the point where things get out of hand. Everything gels nicely.

    Sipped at full strength it is very funky,, slightly astringent and has a lip smacking tartness on the initial couple of sips.

    It will take your palate time to adjust to this rum so don’t judge it by the first few sips or glass.

    Gooseberries and tart Pineapple notes hit you initially. This is folowed up by some sweeter vanilla notes, some apricot jam and some marmalade.

    The mid palate reveals a more savoury whisky like complexity. The vanilla and oak spice begin to integrate more. The nail varnish and creosote that was apparent on this nose make an appearance at this stage before moving onto the finish.

    Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros rum review by the fat rum pirateTo be honest the finish is where I find DOK marque rums to be a little bit of a let down in some ways. The DOK marque gets a lot drier towards the finish than other Jamaican rums. As a result whilst you still get a fairly good fade of the flavours from the mid palate it doesn’t seem to evolve – it all just kind of dries up leaving behind a tart after taste which I am not all that fond of. It’s really quite a sour end which isn’t my favourite type of finish for a rum.

    Jamaican Rum JHK Thompson Bros is the type of rum you will need to be in the mood for. It’s not something you will drink a lot of in one sitting. It is pretty intense stuff and can leave anything you drink afterwards seeming quite tame in comparison.

    If you are looking for high ester funky Jamaican rum then this is a good choice. It’s keenly priced and (hopefully) a couple of retailers will get a few bottles.

     

  • Gunpowder Rum? – An Interview with BH Simpson

    S&O's Gunpowder RumAlthough this may sound gimmicky, there is a history of Gunpowder and Rum.  Not just in the sense that rum had to be “Gunpowder Proof” but also, in that like the recipe for this, Gunpowder was indeed added to rum!

    This may sound slightly mad and at times this interview will reveal the slight craziness of its creator BH Simpson.  However, as this interview will reveal there is method to his madness.

    The company behind this all is Smoke & Oakum with BH Simpson at the helm.  Alongside Gunpowder Rum they are also delving into history to re-create other long lost creations.

     

    1.  Why did a New Zealander decide to re-create such a Pirate Drink?

    The journey to recreate a style of rum that hasn’t been seen for perhaps 200 years or more has been a circumlacuteous one and no mistake. The place one finds oneself at any given moment is the result of many influences in a person’s life. We are the sum of our previous experiences. Somewhere along the line (in 2007 to be precise) my interests in social history, cocktail bartending, naval fiction, archaeology, graphic design, flavour science, story-telling and, of course RUM all combined to form what is S&O’s Gunpowder Rum – the world’s only true Gunpowder Rum and torch bearer for the way pirates drank their drink in days of yore. In part this process is a reflection of the culture in which I grew up.

    New Zealand is a young, under-populated country founded on immigration. Through necessity the country has built its cultural norms on the fly with a heavy emphasis on improvisation and seizing opportunities as they present themselves. Social mobility is fairly high and sacred cows have few chances for complacency. As a nation we are forever testing boundaries and tinkering, sometimes to destruction. When I came across the life story of Blackbeard the Pirate I saw a similarity. Here was a man throwing himself into the world and forging a new identity in the New World. Shrugging off the restrictive social hierarchy of the old world he renegotiated his social contract on his own terms. The ‘pirate charter’ (which was used aboard pirate ships in one form or another) was a revolutionary document promulgating a Bill of Rights more than half a century before its more famous descendent. Additionally Blackbeard called his flagship The Queen Anne’s Revenge, declaring himself at war with the new king of England. This was a man not blithely prepared to accept the status quo. He also liked to drink flaming mugs of rum sprinkled with gunpowder for dramatic effect. Who cannot help but be drawn to such a larger than life figure?

    When the opportunity to create pirate-inspired rum presented itself I leaped for it – and when it was suggested that NZ is not known either for its rum or its pirates the response was naturally that perhaps the books will have to be rewritten: Gunpowder Rum hails from NZ, and the norms be damned.

    2.  Are you looking to expand your operation beyond New Zealand and Australia?BH SIMPSON

    The distant horizon of future possibles (new lands, new peoples, limitless possibility) has always been a grand motivator of human endeavour. And the S&O Manufactory Ltd. is more than ready to sail onto those blank pages of terra incognita (guarded by ‘here be monsters’ signs), but first we must increase our annual production – NZ and Australia tend to drink it all.

    3.  Where does the base rum in S&O come from?

    From the home of rum history, lore, and expertise – the Caribbean and South America. Hundreds of years of sugar cane cultivation and rum distillation saturate the landscape and its peoples, and I can’t help but feel that by bringing my base rum from this source I am maintaining a historical link between S&O’s Gunpowder Rum and the Golden Age of Piracy (and the quality is hard to beat)

    4.  I have heard that at one stage you blended the rum in your own bathtub?

    Lies of course. A bath tub is a luxury one can barely afford. One day, when I have made my fortune as a rum baron, I will purchase a bath tub. It is then that I will know that I have made it.

    5.  I note a Cherry Infused Rum and an English Curacao?

    Various half-finished projects sit on my desk which, by stages, creep towards completion as time allows. There are a handful of benefits to be had in being a boutique rum company, one is the flexibility to experiment and do short production runs. Something that the larger companies can not do as freely. One such is an annual release begun last October and timed to coincide with the anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar, an important date in the history of the Royal Navy. This tiny test run of only 50 bottles was matured over a year in a cask of French oak and bottled at 60%abv.

    Cherry Gunpowder Rum 2012With a slightly different blend of ‘spices’ this rum was intended to evoke the smells of HMS Victory which I once visited in Portsmouth – all tarred rope, oak, canvas and tobacco. I’m soon to start bottling the second batch, which will be twice as many bottles to try to keep the rum-lovers happy. A lot of people missed out last year.

    Another thing I’m just now testing on the sounding board of public opinion is a gin infused with lime peel and gunpowder green tea. While S&O’s Gunpowder Rum invokes the spirit of the pirates of yore, this gin harks more towards the traditions of the pirate’s natural enemy, the Royal Navy. Bottled at ‘navy-strength’ it is distilled and then re-infused with a second round of botanicals giving an appropriately jaundiced hue to the spirit. This is an uncommon but traditional method of gin flavouring. This gives more to the mid-palate through eschewing further distillation simply to give clarity. The result is a softer roundness in spite of the high strength. We’ll see what the gin drinkers of the world make of Scurvy & Gunpowder Proof Gin.

    Additionally two new products are near to release at the moment, but it is the nature of things that one cannot describe these until the trade marking and design work is finalised. There is precious little honour amongst rum barons and pirates.

    6.  How is rum viewed in New Zealand?

    Rum has long been a part of NZ history. From the first arrivals of whalers and sealers, to the ANZACs at Gallipoli drinking vast quantities to steel their nerves. Even today NZ is I think still the largest consumer of Jamaican rum outside of Jamaica.

    Rum is easily obtained in quantity in NZ, and some of it is of a certain degree of quality, but as rum has long been considered a holiday and party beverage, the average Kiwi is not prepared to pay terribly much for a bottle of the stuff. Scotch is a luxury brand, rum is not.

    7.  Favourite Rums?

    While I remember well the bottle of 1930’s Jamaican rum I once had the privilege to enjoy, this is not a rum I can lay my hands on ever again. Instead, when not throwing down my own kill-devil blend, I am partial to the Plantation, El Dorado, Mount Gay, Flor de Cana, St James and Appleton rums as well as any Conquering Lion or Cuban aguardiente I can lay my hands on.

    8.  Do you have an opinion on the Aussie favourite “Bundy” (Bundaberg)?tiki

    Bundaberg is very dear to the Australian heart I think. Every Aussie has tried it, many have grown up with it. It is a colossus of the Australian industry and doth bestride their rum history (for over 125 years). Of course such a titanic producer has a certain inertia and so has taken some while to recognise the changing expectations of many rum drinkers.

    Their Master Distillers’ Collection is a fairly recent innovation, as is their Black Barrel and Small Batch Vintage Barrel offerings… but they’re still at least a decade ahead of my small range. I expect interesting things from Bundaberg if they continue to experiment. Like all rum-producers they are only constrained by the boundaries that they set for themselves.

    9.  Do you have signature cocktail or a drink you enjoy most with S&O Gunpowder rum? 

    By popular acclimation the Gunpowder Blood & Sand is one of the more frequent ways to tame this uncompromising spirit (substituting Gunpowder Rum for the more traditional Scotch, and using blood oranges if they are to hand). For myself a quick refresher I enjoy is mixing the rum with tonic water and a slice of orange (preferably a low-sugar, full-flavour tonic like Quina Fina, another local hero).

    So there you have it – some very interesting and revealing answers. 

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Flor de Cana Centenario 18

    Flor de Cana 18 Centenario Rum Review by the fat rum pirateFlor de Cana – Sugar Cane Flower in English are a Nicaraguan rum producer. Hailing from the wonderfully named Chichigalpa the distillery and San Antonio Sugar Mill have been housed theres since 1890.

    I have reviewed and tasted a few of the Flor de Cana line up – with contrasting results.  The Dry White 4 and the Gran Reserva 7 I both enjoyed.  The Gran Anejo 5 and the Centenario 12 less so.  The Centenario 12 was perhaps the most disappoiinting.  Insipid, muted and just very dull.

    Flor de Cana have had quite a lot of criticism over the past couple of years.  Firstly they decided to drop the “anos” or “aged X years” on their bottles.  This is because the company claims they were looking for a flavour profile rather than a specific age for their rums.  Cynics have suggested that it enables Flor de Cana to reduced the age/quality of their blends.  Having tried one of the older Gran Reserva 7 Year Olds and the new Gran Reserva 7 – I must confess I could not notice any difference in the juice.

    Maybe standards/ages went down a little a while back? Who knows? It’s not something I’m going to dwell on too much.  Yes I do think putting a number on a bottle when it doesn’t actually refer to the rum in the bottle is misleading.   However you need to take a step back and still evaluate the rum you have bought.  If you enjoy it and pay a fair price for it – it shouldn’t taint your overall experience.  People also tend to get a bit hung up on the “Slow Aged” statement.  Which will pretty stupid is hardly crime of the century.  In my humble opinion.

    Secondly and more seriously Flor de Cana have been crtiicised very heavily over a couple of news reports into the conditions at their distillery.  It highlights that many workers are suffering from Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD).  An article is here should you wish to read more about it.  I personally haven’t boycotted Flor de Cana rums as I don’t really think that would help such a big employer.  There is a certain irony I feel about someone filming themselves pouring rum down the sink on an IPhone, wearing Nike trainers and various other items of clothing made in third world sweatshops………But they have their principles.

    Flor de Cana Centenario 18 Rum Review by the fat rum piratSo with those contentious issues I’ll get on with reviewing this rum.  Flor de Cana Centenario 18 is one of FDC more Premium offerings.  Bottled at 40% ABV it will set you back around £55 in the UK for a 70cl bottle.

    Presentation is excellent with this rum.  The newly updated bottles (not only did they remove the age statement they also modernised) is much more “with it” than the rather tacky and antique looking bottles previously.  With their “faux suede” sleeves and tacky metals emblems.

    For your money you get a very sturdy carboard sleeve.  The bottle is a square decanter style stubby bottle.  The real cork stopper is particularly large and grandiose with Flor de Cana on the top.  The presentation is very elegant and modern and befits this type of rum at this price point.  When you are competing with the likes of Diplomatico and Zacapa you need to look good.

    Which is one of the strange things about FDC.  Despite hailing from South/Central America they seem to have eschewed the usual practice of dosage.  Their rums do not display the same levels of sweetness which seem to be aspired to in nearby Guatemala, Venezuela or Panama.  Yet amongst rum enthusiasts Flor de Cana are not always viewed as being “pure” or top level rums.  They don’t seem to garner much of a following amongst hardcore rum drinkers.

    Flor de Cana rums are produced on a multi column set up and then aged in ex-Bourbon barrels and blended to produce the different rums in the line up.  Aside from the “Slow Aged” tagline FDC are quite unfussy and straightforward in their marketing approach.  Like other Latin American rum producers there may be some additions by way of “sweet wine” or other such things – but being honest I don’t really get a lot of that from their rums.  They seem honest enough.

    I’m sure sales of Flor de Cana in Spanish speaking countries is good – Spain imports a lot of FDC stuff. Since the CKD articles it seems people are even scared to speak about FDC.  Which I guess is understandable.

    On a lighter note lets press on with nosing and tasting this rum.

    Poured in the glass Centenario 18 is a rich dark brown colour with flashes of red and orange.  The nose is rich and familiar.  It reminds me very much of the well balanced Gran Reserva 7.  Unlike the Centenario 12 it seems to have kept more of the bite of the younger rums.  The 12 was for me just a little bit tired.

    Toffee, Caramel, Dark Chocolate, hazlenuts and a little touch of tobacco give the Flor de Cana Centenario 18 a sweet but not overly cloying nose.  It’s nicely balanced if just a little on the soft side.  There isn’t much by way of spiciness from the oak. It’s not an aggressive rum.

    At 40% ABV Flor De Cana Centenario 18 is a very easy going sipper.  It is not a huge, intense flavour bomb.  It is not “knock your socks off” rum.  What it does deliver however is a very pleasant, reasonably complex sipper.

    Flor de Cana Centenario 18 Rum Review by the fat rum pirateFlavourwise if you have enjoyed other Flor de Cana rums then this rum will feel familiar.  It has that nuttiness running through its profile which is so distinct in Flor de Cana products.  All the notes of the nose transfer nicely through when sipped.  It’s not overly sweet and retains a dryness which is particularly good on the finish.

    Which is about medium in length but nicely balanced.  There’s a good amount of spiciness and the drying of the mouth is nice and ready’s you nicely for the next sip.

    If you are more familiar with the likes of Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva and/or Zacapa this might be a way of trying an “undoctored” rum.  It’s gentle with a natural and not overpowering sweetness.

    It’s quite a light, elegant style of rum very enjoyable.  I’ve found it nice to return to after buying so many cask strength single cask rums lately.  This offers a half way house – it appeals to my sweet tooth whilst retaining plenty genuine rum character.

    At a higher ABV say 46% this rum might well be even better.  However Flor de Cana have a system in place so I doubt we will see anything too innovative from them.  They seem happy enough doing what they do.

     

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  • That Boutique-y Rum Company O Reizinho Distillery Aged 3 Years

    That Boutique-y Rum Company O Reizinho Distillery Aged 3 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateThat Boutique-y Rum Company O Reizinho Distillery Aged 3 Years. This is the second bottling from That Boutique-y Rum Company to hail from the O Reizinho Distillery on the Portuguese Island of Madeira. Which is of course the birthplace of the world famous sporting star Moises Henriques.

    Maybe there is someone else a little more famous than him, some footballer or something.

    O Reizinho Distillery is little known outside of Madeira. Even in the capital of Funchal I cannot recall seeing any of the O Reizinho branded rums, that I have noticed appear online recently.

    Portuguese Rhum Agricole or Agricola da Madeira is certainly on the rise. It first came to my attention a couple of years ago at London Rumfest when the William Hinton brand were exhibiting.

    That Boutique-y Rum Company O Reizinho Distillery Aged 3 Years is a batch of 1,936 50cl bottles. The rhum has been bottled at 52.6% ABV. The eagle eyed among you may notice that “The Olive King” on the front of the striking label is a bit older than on the Unaged bottle. This has after all been aged for 3 years. It has been aged in ex-Madeira wine casks. It is casked at 50% ABV but due to Madeira’s climate they lose more water than alcohol from the distillate so the ABV increases rather than decreases. The rum is very lightly filtered and no additives or colourings have been used post production.

    You can pick up a bottle of this at Master of Malt for what I think is a more than reasonable £42.95.

    In the glass we have a dark brown spirit with yellow tinges around the edges. The nose is much more developed and “mature” compared to the Unaged White O Reizinho also released by That Boutique-y Rum Company.

    The funky notes of the Unaged Batch 1 have been replaced with rich warming notes of fortified wine. Sherry, especially and a splash of Port. Blackcurrants, plump raisins and prunes mingle alongside smoky tobacco notes and dark treacle.

    Further nosing reveals a slightly funky edge with notes of burnt banana and green olives. Salty and rich but not as pronounced as they were in the Unaged rhum.

    Sipped it is initially a very fiery spirit with lots of chilli powder and salty seaweed like notes. Dark chocolate and some tart gooseberries. Further sips reveal an almost savoury note of leeks and crispy seaweed from the Chinese Takeaway (Dried cabbage as far as I am aware).

    As an Agricole style rhum this is quite sweet, with some nice vegetal notes. It has a good balance similar in many respects to something like Rhum JM XO. It’s very definitely an agricole but it lends itself in many ways to a molasses style rum.

    Further sips reveal more of the fruity notes of Port and Sherry. There is a very definite smokiness to this rum, which adds an extra layer of complexity.That Boutique-y Rum Company O Reizinho Distillery Aged 3 Years rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Finish wise the rum is pretty short in that respect. It is quite intense on the palate and the mid palate is fairly substantial but the finish does fade pretty quickly. You aren’t left with a lot of flavour.

    That said for a 3 year old rhum this is a very interesting sip. From memory it has more balance than some of the Madeira Agricole, I have tried in the past. It has a Madeira influence but it doesn’t dominate the spirit.

    It is easy to forget that is just a 3 year old rhum.

    Much better for me than the Unaged Batch 1

  • Spice Hunter Boldest Spiced Rum

    Spice Hunter Boldest Spiced Rum Review by the fat rum pirateSpice Hunter Boldest Spiced Rum. I’ve seen spiced rum described in many different ways but I’ve never heard anyone claim their spiced rum is the boldest before.

    Not many spiced rums claim to add 13 different spices to the rum. Which is why as their website informs us – they have decided to call it “Boldest Spiced Rum”. They think it is a very bold move to infuse so many spiced into their rum.

    Presentation is also quite bold with a very vivid orange, white and black colour scheme. The man in the boat on the front label is an 18th century “Spice Hunter” called Pierre Poivre.

    The rum comes housed in a rounded 3/4 stubby style bottle with a chunky wooden topped synthetic cork stopper.

    The actual rum is a column distilled rum from the Medine Distillery in Mauritius. Readers of this blog may find the name of that distillery familiar. It also gives us a bit more idea about the company behind this spiced rum. Spice Hunter is bottled at 38% ABV and a 70cl bottle currently retails at £28. You can currently find it on Amazon and in select Revolucion de Cuba bars around the country.

    Spice Hunter is infused with 13 different spices – All Spice, Caraway, Cardamon, Chilli, Cinnamon, Clove, Cubeb, Elemi, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pepper, Pimento and that spiced rum staple Vanilla.

    The rum has been released at 19 Revolucion de Cuba venues throughout the UK – so if you don’t want to take the plunge and buy a bottle you can try it there.

    Now I wouldn’t normally get too excited or enthusiastic about a spiced rum. I don’t mind a good spiced rum but sadly there aren’t many of those about. Too many rely on synthetic tasting vanilla and sugar and little else. To many copycat brands all doing the same thing. I wasn’t even that fussed on Pink Pigeon which is a spiced/flavoured rum produced by the Medine Distillery using Vanilla.

    However, the base rum for this is produced in Mauritius but the spices are blended here in the UK by Berry’s Bros & Rudd. So this is for me a bit of a “posh” rum. I’m assured all the spices used are authentic and they have taken a great deal of time and care making sure the blend is bold but very tasty.Spice Hunter Boldest Spiced Rum Review by the fat rum pirate

    So I have higher hopes for this spiced rum than I perhaps usually do.

    In the glass the rum is a rich golden brown – if the spices have had only a minimal impact on the colour of this rum then the distillate appears to be at least 2-3 years old. That said, it could have been coloured at any stage.

    The initial nosing reveals Cloves, Ginger and some peppery spices. It’s quite sweet but has a lot of punch to it as well. I certainly couldn’t pick out all 13 spices in the mix (I’ve not even heard of Cubeb before) but there is certainly a lot more there in terms of actual spiced than you get in most spiced rums.

    This has more an infused vibe to it than a standard supermarket spiced rum. The sweetness of the cloves is quite dominant on the nose but you can still detect the spicier elements such as Pimento, Ginger and Pepper.

    Sipped neat the sweetness of the cloves takes a back seat. This is quite “fiery” spiced rum – similar in many respects to Dark Matter. For me though the base spirit is a lot better and so the drink has a much better balance. No bitter or metallic elements with this.

    Ginger, Pepper and the Pimento give this a really spicy kick – there is just enough sweetness from the Cinnamon and Vanilla to balance this out.

    In terms of a spiced rum this really delivers and the flavours of the actual spiced really shine through the rum. Sipped it’s very pleasant – I wouldn’t normally recommend it but a cube of ice works nicely.

    It’s punchy throughout but the finish is really spicy with lots of Chilli and Pimento heat. It’s a real winter warmer of a rum.

    In mixed drinks it works really well with cola giving a really nice spicy rum and cola. If you are a fan of spicy Mexican food I think you will really enjoy this. Their website Spice Hunter Boldest Spiced Rum Review by the fat rum pirateadvises mixing with Ginger Beer/Ale that works well also.

    However, like Dark Matter I find that this hot and spicy Spiced Rum works best in a Bloody Mary. If you think the idea of a Bloody Mary is awful – try one with Pusser’s Gunpowder.

    This is a sophisticated “grown up” kind of spiced rum. I’d rank this up there with Bristol Black in terms of its standing in the Spiced Rum world. It might not be “sweet” enough for some but there is no doubting how “bold” this effort is.

    Really excellent stuff.