Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World

Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World

The rum world is finally being forced into a conversation it has managed to sidestep for decades: Geographic Indications (GIs).

For some producers this is a welcome step towards clarity. In fact, it is those producers who are largely calling for change. For others, it would appear to be catastrophic to their very existence.

That is of course if you believe their heavily marketed and distorted hyperbole. These producers are certainly not calling for change. Unless of course it can be done in a way which suits their current business model.

Which strangely enough doesn’t bed itself with what a true GI should look like. It is far more about keeping the Status Quo (no not Rick and Francis) and continuing to fly the flag of colonialism, albeit with revised history and romanticised marketing.

The problem you see is once you define what Jamaican or Barbados rum actually is, you can’t just improvise around it. Sadly such improvisation has been very profitable.

Let’s be clear from the start this is the first step in a much larger discussion. There are nuances. There are regional differences. It isn’t all about Jamaica and Barbados. Other regions have already introduced GIs or some form of accreditation that ties their sugar cane products to a framework.

There are of course, economic realities. If anyone wants to make reference to anything this article may be missing – hold that thought. I’ve got a lot more to say.

If rum enthusiasts have learnt anything from the “First World Additives in Rum War 2014-2018” it is that the rum world doesn’t change because one rum writer, writes one piece, one time and the whole House of Cards comes crashing down.

This will not be the only article I write about GIs. This will not be the only time this is mentioned on this website. I won’t just comment on this article in the online rum forums. I won’t ignore the negative responses.

I’m going into this knowing fully that for some in the industry, at the very least I will be that “annoying little irritant that just won’t go away”

Much like I did with Hydrometer Tests and Additives I will make this topic “normal” in my little corner of the rum world.

Will I have a seismic impact on the Rum World overall?

Will I reach the casual rum drinker?

Will the Industry change because I’m talking about it?

Will it balls. Absolutely not. I would be naïve to even dream this is possible.

Do you know who will take notice of what I am saying though?

YOU the more regular, more serious, more engaged rum drinker. Enthusiasts and Rum Nerds. People who genuinely care and have a deep interest in Rum.

Will everyone even agree with my stance? Of course not. If that were going to be the case then it wouldn’t be worth writing about or even discussing. It would be completely unnecessary as the war would already have been won – one way or the other. The discussion would be over.

Will other rum writers begin writing about the GIs? I certainly hope so. Will this article and subsequent articles on the subject lead to counter arguments and articles opposing my view? Again I hope so. In fact I very much hope so because that is when the fun begins.

You see it did the last time with Hydrometer Tests and Additives and this is without doubt a far bigger, more far reaching issue than those ever were.

If anything additives was a footnote to this and something which by the GIs very design, could logically become a far less widespread an issue.

The very fact that you are reading this shows that you at least care about this topic and most likely rum in general. It doesn’t mean you have to agree with all or even part of what I write. As with all my writing, its not personal and I’m not going to call out individuals.

“Get back to the GIs Wes”

OK

The principle is simple and could have been thought up by a small child. If you put a region’s name on the label, you should meet that region’s standards.

The fact that this is controversial tells you everything you need to know.

Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World article by the fat rum pirateWhat GIs Actually Do And Why That Makes People Nervous

A Geographic Indication is not a marketing slogan. It’s a legal definition.

It ties a product to:

  • A specific place
  • A defined production process
  • Recognised and agreed traditional methods

It removes ambiguity and ambiguity has long been one of rum’s most flexible assets.

For years, parts of the industry have operated in a comfortable grey zone:

  • Bulk rum produced in one country
  • Shipped elsewhere
  • Aged under different conditions
  • Adjusted post-distillation

Then wrapped in a story about heritage, traditional processes, pirates, fairies and most bizarrely of all – Terroir.

Yes Terroir from 6,000 miles away. Work that one out.

Is that illegal? Often no.

Is it transparent? Also no.

GIs don’t criminalise creativity. They simply force alignment between the label and reality and that alignment reduces wiggle room.

The Additive Question: Heritage or Engineering?

Let’s talk about the sugar bowl. Again………

Additives in rum are not new. Dosing has historical precedent. No serious person denies that.

What is new is scale, positioning, and silence.

In some modern “Premium” expressions, sweetness isn’t a subtle adjustment it’s structural. Flavourings and smoothing agents are used to shape profile consistency and mass appeal. Then the result is marketed as a pure expression of regional craft.

That’s where the tension lies.

If a significant portion of a rum’s character comes from post-distillation additions, how honest is it to sell that character as the natural outcome of fermentation, distillation, and tropical maturation in that region?

A GI forces that question to be answered instead of danced around with fluffy marketing and selective history.

Some GI frameworks allow limited additives. Others restrict them. The important shift is this: once defined, producers cannot blur the boundary between traditional practice and modern market engineering.

Yes, that threatens certain business models.

Largely because once sweetness can’t hide behind storytelling, quality has to stand on its own two feet.

Geographic Indications (GIs): The End of Creative Geography in the Rum World article by the fat rum pirateAging Abroad: Climate Matters Until It Doesn’t?

Now to the other uncomfortable topic: aging outside the region of origin.

Historically, rum travelled not a little but a lot. Barrels were shipped to Europe back to the colonial masters. Climate differences slowed maturation. Losses were lower. Logistics made sense. No argument there.

What began as necessity has, in some cases, been reframed as luxury.

Here’s the awkward question:

If climate meaningfully shapes maturation and every producer will tell you it does when defending tropical aging then how can removing that climate from the equation not matter?

You cannot simultaneously argue that tropical heat defines regional character and that continental aging preserves it perfectly.

Both cannot be true.

Under a strict GI, if you want to sell Jamaican rum, aging in Jamaica becomes part of that identity. The tropical environment isn’t incidental. It is formative.

That is not anti-innovation. It is definitional consistency and consistency can be very expensive.

The Real Objection: Constraint

The resistance to GIs is often framed as a defence of freedom and flexibility. Freedom to do what exactly?

To experiment? That remains.
To sweeten? Still possible.
To age in Europe? No one is stopping you.
To blend across regions? Go ahead.

The only constraint is this: don’t market those products as traditional regional expressions if they don’t meet the regional definition.

That’s not oppression. That’s labelling integrity. Which is frankly long overdue in rum.

The real discomfort isn’t about creativity being stifled. It’s about geographic branding becoming less elastic. For some brands, elasticity has been the point.

Why Rum Actually Benefits from GIs

Rum’s biggest long-term problem isn’t regulation. It’s credibility.

  • Too many inconsistent standards.
  • Too many opaque practices.
  • Too much romance doing the heavy lifting for what should be production quality.

GIs offer the following corrections

1. Clarity for Consumers

If a bottle carries a regional name, that name has enforceable meaning. Trust increases. Confusion decreases.

2. Protection of Production Identity

Fermentation styles, still types, raw materials, aging environments these are not aesthetic choices. They define regional character. GIs formalize that definition instead of leaving it to the fluffy marketing departments and pseudo historians.

3. A Harder Definition of “Premium”

Premium stops meaning sweeter, older-sounding, or more theatrically narrated. It starts meaning better raw material, better fermentation management, more precise distillation, and maturation done, where the tradition says it should be.

That shift rewards producers who invest in process rather than post-production polish.

Not everyone benefits equally from that shift.

Authenticity vs. Elastic Identity

At its core, the GI debate asks a simple question:

Is regional rum a production identity tied to place and method? Or is it a flexible storytelling device?

If it’s the latter, then resistance makes perfect sense. If it’s the former, then GIs are inevitable.

Rum cannot simultaneously demand respect as a serious, terroir-driven spirit and insist that geographic definitions remain conveniently fluid.

Other categories have chosen definition. Rum now has to decide whether it wants to.

This Is Just the Beginning

GIs are not flawless. Some regional standards are politically negotiated. Some are compromises. Some will evolve.

We’ll get into all of that.

  • We’ll examine specific frameworks.Renaissance Distillery Puyama 2018 Single Rum Cognac Cask Raising Glasses Review by the fat rum pirate
  • We’ll look at additive thresholds.
  • We’ll look at aging rules.
  • We’ll talk about the economics.

The key principle stands though:

If you use a region’s name, meet its standards.

  • Clarity over mystique.
  • Definition over suggestion.
  • Authenticity over profit-driven flexibility.

For producers who already operate with transparency, GIs are validation.

For those who rely on ambiguity, they are disruption.

The future of rum will depend on which side of that line the industry chooses to stand.

For the first time, that choice could well be forced and consumers have a lot of a say in this. If they want to.

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  • Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years

    Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years Rum review by the fat rum pirate Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years. Sadly the review of this particular rum is not as a result of a trip to Cuba. Nor is it even the result of a brief sojourn to Europe. It is in fact due to a visit to the Lidl Supermarket on Roker Avenue……..

    I appreciate that those of you familiar with this site will be surprised to see someone as sophisticated and refined as myself shopping in a discount German Supermarket. Especially those who have met me. This bottling was of course purchased for me by my domestic help on their weekly shop.

    Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years comes with the familiar green “Republica de Cuba Garantia” which is the Cuban Governments Warranty for Cuban Rum. I’m not sure how far I would “trust” anything coming out of Cuba. That said, this green label is an indicator that the rum has been produced in Cuba, inline with the islands own “rules and regulations” on rum production.

    So I know that this rum is produced in Cuba and is a true Cuban rum. So which distillery produces this? Well it is produced at the world famous Bimmerle Private Distillery which is in the Cuban city of Achern-Mösbach, Germany. Which of course also produces Cuban favourites such as Finton’s Pink Gin and Ignis Raspberry French Grain Vodka…..

    Yes the Bimmerle Private Distillery is the “heart” of Lidl’s European distribution. From this operation they supply their supermarkets with a variety of wines, spirits and Ready to Drink options. Whether it does “distil” anything is questionable. For the purposes of this review Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years is imported to Germany for bottling/labelling having been distilled and aged in Cuba.

    Unfortunately despite my best efforts (and ignoring some speculation I found online) I do not have any reliable information on which Cuban Rum Distillery produces this. Volume wise it must be one of the island’s bigger hitters. That doesn’t really cut things down that much though as the islands distilleries are all government controlled and capable of pumping out a fair amount of rum.Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years Rum review by the fat rum pirate

    So what do I know about Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years? Well, I assume it is a rum made from a molasses base, which is column distilled (multi column) in the Cuban style and then aged in ex-bourbon barrels for 7 years in Cuba. It is then shipped to Germany for distribution in Lidl supermarkets in Europe (and possibly further afield).

    Oh it is also bottled at a rather stingy 38% ABV. I don’t normally object to rum being bottled at 37.5/38% ABV as it is usually only the very bottom tier of supermarket spirits that get such treatment. Due to the cost and expectation of such spirits I can tolerate it. For a 7 year old rum to be bottled at 38% ABV I feel is a bit of a stretch.

    Should you wish to purchase a 70cl bottle of this it will set you back £17.99. It is only available in Lidl, though oddly enough the odd bottle has come up on Rum Auction sites. Presumably by enthusiasts/scalpers of other spirits (Scotch Whisky) thinking they could make a quick buck on some Cuban Rum. Maybe in the US but not here lads and lasses……

    Anyway I’m quite pleased to see I’ve got the word count up over 500 words before I’ve even started commenting on the actual rum! Not bad considering I know sweet FA about this rum!

    Presentation wise as you can see it comes in a standard short necked bar style bottle with a good quality well threaded screw cap with Aged 7 Years written on the cap in similar style to Havana Club 7. As with a lot of Lidl’s offerings the presentation is a gentle reminder of other “Premium” brands it has in its sights. Hoping the penny pinching consumer will give their cheaper offering ago.

    So enough of my prattling lets get on with the review.

    In the glass Ron Rumbera Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years is a golden/dark brown colouredRon Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years Rum review by the fat rum pirate spirit. The “brown spirit” colour you will find in nearly all continuous aged releases. Nothing remarkable a little orange/yellow hue around the edges. I would suggest that there is a little caramel colouring (as there is in most continuous releases). However the German market usually notes when colouring has been added whether Lidl have opted to remove this from the UK release I’m not sure. The back label is a UK only label as it has the HMRC purple excise sticker.

    Anyway its not really much of a point anyway. The colour isn’t the important thing. I’m already pretty low on information on this rum so ruminating over the addition of caramel or not seems a bit moot at this point. There are however around 8g/l of additives in this bottling.

    On the nose its light and sweet. Quite tropical in fact. Getting some notes of Pineapple, Grapefruit and even some Passion Fruit! It has a little smoke and some more aged/oaked notes but not as much as I might have hoped for. The overall aroma on the sip is definitely at the sweeter end of the spectrum. Toffee and Caramel mingle with the fruitier notes.

    All in all it feels a little muted and clipped. Homogenised as if the profile has been made to suit most people rather than really be enjoyed by a Cuban rum lover. The low ABV probably doesn’t help but its just a bit thin and to light on the nose for me. It is doesn’t smell old enough……..

    On the sip it is a little punchier than the nose, which is not really saying much if I am being honest. There is an initial burst of spice and some fruity notes – note as fruity as the nose – we are talking more smoke and oakiness here so the fruitiness is more stoned fruits for me. A little bit of Peach but more overwhelming is the Dark Plum notes. Almost moving into the realms of Prunes and Dates.

    It is for me like a sweeter Havana Club 7 at this point. Much less smoke, cigar and oak. So it feels less complex.

    Even as a first drink this is overall very short. The initial entry is easy going, quite sweet and basically pretty agreeable. It’s not “bad” in anyway. At the same time its a bit meh. This probably wouldn’t be an issue if the mid palate and finish had something to say.

    Sadly it all just kind of falls apart. The mid palate is a rather meek hint of oak and wood spice that just very quickly dries out. Into the finish……….

    Which just doesn’t. There is virtually no finish. It just ends. No real flavour, no mouthfeel no nothing. I’m left with a flavourless buzz in my mouth.

    Being fair though I am sipping an £18 38% ABV bottling of what is already a fairly light style of rum. Was I expecting anything else? The answer is no as a sipper probably not in all honesty.

    It would only seem fair at this point to give this a go as a mixer as I’m pretty sure the rest of this bottle will end up in a few weekend rum and colas.Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years Rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Ron Rumbero Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years is fine in a rum and cola. Better than average and certainly a step up from the usual supermarket rums. Yes the bar is being set low but it reflects the price.

    It’s not an awful rum though. It is light as is its style. Its not the best example of Cuban rum around.

    Ron Rumbera Cuban Rum Aged 7 Years is bang average overall but at the price point you won’t find a great deal better. Especially not in the Cuban category,.

    That said Sainsburys have Ron de Santiago 8 Year Old in stock for £25 (sometimes cheaper for club card holders) and I’d go for that personally. Obviously you’ll have to get dressed to go to to Sainsbury’s though rather than wearing your Pyjama’s.

     

     

     

  • Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima

    Tamosi Kanaima Guyana Versailles Still rum review by the fat rum pirateLevy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima. I’m no stranger to Independently bottled Demerara Rum. Which is what this intriguingly named release actually is.

    I’ve also reviewed two of Levy Lane Rum Co’s more “regular” (ie not Single Cask) releases. Overall, I’ve been quite impressed with both, so I’m looking forward to this review.

    Reading up on “Kanaima” both on Tamosi’s own website and various sources around, it is taken from Caribbean/Guyanese folklore. Kanaimi refers to “the spirit of blood vengeance, when someone dies of suspected foul play”.

    Sounds kind of nice doesn’t it? I don’t think there is much point me going into too much detail about it in a rum review. Especially when I’ll only really be re-writing what is already available. So go look at the links and we’ll stick to the liquid in the bottle.

    Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima was distilled back in 2004, on the iconic Wooden Single Pot Versailles Still. It was bottled in 2020 at 16 years old. Got to say I much prefer when Independent bottlers refer to the rum they are bottling by the name of the still.

    This particular still has been moved from Versailles to Enmore in 1977 and then onto Uitvlugt in 1993 and finally, to what looks to be its final home – Diamond Distillery/Demerara Distillers Limited in 2000.

    There is considerable licence there to have referred to it in a number of different ways. Often Independent bottlers try to match the date of distillation with the estate or just refer to where the still was originally housed. Often it might be just noted as Diamond Distillery. I don’t claim to be a historian and I’m easily confused. The name of the still and the date of distillation is fine with me.

    Prior to being put into barrels the rum was coloured with caramel. Over the past few years Demerara Distillers have given us various reasons for the sweetness and colour of some of their rums. The El Dorado range has been noted, especially with the higher aged expressions, as containing significant amounts of additives. We’ve heard of barrels being coated with caramel/molasses prior to the ageing process. Such is the level of obfuscation around this, speculation will continue.

    Anyway, lets get on with some clearer facts about this particular bottling. Unlike the previous two bottlings in the Tamosi range, this is a Pure Single 100% Pot Still Rum. I’ve been assured that Levy Lane Rum Co have not added anything to the rum and they have been assured that only spirit caramel for colouring was added prior to ageing.

    Levy LanLevy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima rum review by the fat rum piratee Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima has been bottled at Cask Strength of 58.9%. The Hydrometer bobs nicely at around 59% ABV. 275 bottles were available on release. You can pick a bottle up for £120 at The Whisky Exchange. I suspect, as this has been out a couple of months (I go as fast as I can) there won’t be too many bottles available.

    Presentation wise Tamosi have housed this in a “Velier Style” opaque “wine” bottle with a nice contemporary presentation. It doesn’t look home made or a little old fashioned like a lot of Indie bottlers. It’s sleek and modern. The back label contains some information on the Kanaima.

    So I think that covers everything I know about this bottling so I think I’ll pour myself a small glass…….

    In the glass it’s dark. Not quite as dark as as I have seen some Versailles rums but its a mahogany dark brown with an orange/reddish hue.

    The nose is rich and treacly. Molasses, caramel, dark toffee and some light chilli heat. There’s a nice sprinkling of oak, a touch of vanilla and something which smells a little ermmm…..sooty. Interesting and not at all unpleasant.

    Further nosing reveals some raisins, sultanas and some red apple. A bit of green chilli and some dark chocolate.

    When sipped Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima is immediately recognisable as a big, juicy, thick, tarry Demerara rum. Liquorice toffee, roasted banana, plump raisins, juicy sultana and slightly savoury caramel/molasses overtones. It has a hit of spices and a subtle note of musty oak. This is wrapped up in a very intense delivery, especially at the full ABV.

    The mid palate softens up giving some lighter fruitier notes and some tobacco. A touch of olive and green apple, red apple as well. It’s multi layered and very complex. Although I would imagine that has spent some time in Europe it tastes very much like the Tropically Aged stuff from Velier, that sadly is no longer being issued.Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Even at the full ABV of 58.9% I found it highly drinkable and felt no need to add any water. If you like these dark intense looking Versailles still rums for the fruity and molasses flavours then you’ll really enjoy this.

    The finish is long and well rounded with tobacco, olives, spicy oak and a coating of caramel, molasses and some red grapes. It fades out with some really nice notes of liquorice as well.

    This is a complex full bodied Demerara rum. It’s another winner for the Levy Lane Rum Co and their Tamosi brand.

     

     

  • Stroh 80 Austria Inlander Rum

    Stroh 80 Spirit of Austria Rum Review by the fat rum pirateStroh 80 Austria Inlander Rum. The Spirit of Austria. Stroh is a brand of “rum” that you will likely come across quite frequently, being sold at most shops online.

    Despite the fact, I do not know a single person who drinks or enjoys it. Stroh sits at the lower to mid-priced end of the market. It is an historic brand which has been available since 1857.

    Stroh has had a bit of mixed identity over the years and the term “Inlander Rum” (Domestic Rum) has had it’s meaning changed by recent EU Legislation.

    Domestic Rum, as can be found here with Maraska Room is essentially “fake” rum. As you can see from the review and the pictures of the bottle Maraska can no longer legally call such a spirit rum. It is a neutral spirit with added flavourings or essence – usually vanilla and butterscotch.

    This is what Stroh originally was, with added flavours and spices. There are conflicting stories as well as to whether Stroh also contained a small percentage of “real” rum, from overseas. Now I understand that the base of Stroh is authentic rum produced in Austria from Sugar Cane molasses

    Stroh is available in varying strengths, this is the highest ABV version and the most well known. In the US, due to them not using metric measurements you will see Stroh 160 which is proof rather than ABV.

    Stroh comes in a 50cl stubby hip flask style bottle. The bottle is understood to represent those used by hunters during Austria winter in years gone by. A bottle of Stroh 80 will set you back around £30.

    In the glass we have a very strange coloured spirit. It’s a very strange looking red colour with black flashes (I’m not quite sure how it manages this). On the nose I am met with a plethora of aromas.

    All of which are pretty confected and pretty fake. Toffee, Caramel, Vanilla, Butterscotch (Werthers Originals) and some strange notes, which I can best describe as a mixture of Jägermeister and Licor de Herbias from Mallorca. Both of which I detest.

    Add into this cacophony, a huge waft of sweet sugar and sickly sweet honey notes. It is in all fairness, absolutely rancid and completely fake. Stroh 80 is used quite a lot in baking and I can certainly see why that is the case. This is very, very essence heavy.Stroh 80 Spirit of Austria Rum Review by the fat rum pirate

    Sipped all you get is a massive amount of heat and some burning notes of sugar and burnt caramel. It has a slightly herbal off note to it, on top off all the sweet sugary notes. Which make it slightly bitter and even more unforgiving.

    This is definitely not a sipper by anyones definition. Probably the type of thing Austria teenagers might “shot” down to get drunk.

    Despite the high ABV, the length of this spirit is very short. You aren’t left with any kind of finish as such, just a mouthful of sickly sweet essence flavours. The burn of alcohol etc, disappears almost instantly on the sip. I’ve no idea where the actual rum has gone in this spirit. It may as well be made with cats piss.

    Stroh is available in various strengths so maybe watering this down might help a bit. Does it? Not really, it just makes the experience a bit sicklier if anything whilst adding nothing of any merit.

    It’s the kind of dreadful novelty nonsense that will appeal to people wanting to seem “hard” drinking high ABV spirits but who have no knowledge of Cask Strength or barrel aged spirits.

    There isn’t a great deal of point being awful about Stroh as unlike a lot of the rubbish out there in the rum market they don’t seem to set their offerings up as anything sophisticated. They know it is used a lot in cookery and are happy with that. I will however still give Stroh a go as a mixer.

    I’m quite surprised to find such a high ABV spirit mixes so easily into a rum and coke. Any heat or boozy notes from the ABV seem to disappear. All I am getting on the nose, is the fake toffeStroh 80 Spirit of Austria Rum Review by the fat rum piratee and butterscotch. It just all smells very sweet an innocent. In terms of flavour, it reminds me of Czech Domaci Rum and Old Monk (I would say Old Monk is a lot better overall though). It’s not rum and it doesn’t really pretend to be. It’s kind of happy in it old little weird place in the world.

    I can’t really be too harsh about Stroh but at the same time I can’t think of a single good thing to say about it.

    I suppose the very short finish of it and next to no mid-palate is a blessing. In all fairness, when you visit their website even they recognise it is used primarily in baking. They aren’t bullshitting anyone.

    As a rum it’s a load of bollocks but as a curiosity it has a little bit of charm I suppose.

    Please though don’t make me drink it again!

     

     

  • El Dorado Original Dark Rum

    El Dorado Superior Dark Rum Review by the fat rum pirateEl Dorado have been hitting the headlines lately with their Rare Collection.  This Original Dark Rum is available in the Netherlands (where it is bottled) and it is also listed on the official El Dorado website.  However I’d never seen it in the UK until Beers of Europe had a stash of this and a white in a similar style bottle.

    I had thought that this was some kind of old extinct bottling which they had a limited stock of but it appears that this rum is actually still being distributed and bottled in the more old school El Dorado bottle.

    I paid a pretty measly £17.99 for this 70cl bottle which has an ABV of 37.5%.  I thought at the price point it was certainly worth giving it a whirl.

    I’ve tried but failed to get any information on the blend.  As El Dorado usually carry age statements on their rum I assume that this is at most a couple of years old and likely it could be even younger.  It is undoubtedly a blend of rums which has been given a liberal dose of E150 (Caramel) in order to give the appearance of a more aged rum.  It is not as dark as some Demerara blends but its certainly been tinkered with.

    A Hydrometer Test reveals that no added sugar can be detected.  I’ve found this with most very cheap blends – I’m taking supermarket own label blends.   Despite their at times cloying sweetness they manage to pass the Hydro tests.  Artificial sweeteners? Possibly.  Sweet young immature alcohol? Perhaps.

    If I had been told this rum had been bottled in the 80’s or 90’s I wouldn’t have been surprised the presentation (especially the chunky over sized screw top a la old style Barbancourt) is pretty old hat.  It is no wonder this rum is not included in the sexier El Dorado range the world over.

    The fact the rum is bottled in the Netherlands is not a surprise.  The Netherlands has long been a huge player in the rum world.  Independent bottlers and brokers are frequently based in the Netherlands, due in no small part to the countries rich seafaring history and huge gateway port.

    So what are we getting for our £17.99? The El Dorado 5 Year old is available for around £25 – I find it to be decent if nothing outstanding, the 8 year old is certainly worth the extra few pounds.  The first thing to note on this rum is the nose.  It will be very familiar to anyone with much experience of cheap Supermarket “West Indies” blends.  For those UK based – Tesco Dark Rum is the best example.  For the rest of us the old style Plantation Dark has a similar nose.  It’s big, cloyingly sickly sweet with huge wafts of sweet young alcohol and caramel.  It smells cheap and nasty.  El Dorado Dark Superior Rum Review by the fat rum pirateIf you do want to try this rum then I would advise buying M&S Dark Rum (from Guyana) I’m pretty certain its much the same.

    Sipped, the rum is much to young and sickly sweet with so many rough edges to make it almost undrinkable.  It burns, its overpoweringly sweet then overtly bitter very quickly and it just tastes like something that will give you a very nasty hangover.

    I can usually find some kind of saving grace with just about any rum.  Not with this though.  Even when used as a mixer that horrible sickly caramel flavour dominates and makes the drink truly awful.

    For anyone thinking this will have any similarities to the rest of the El Dorado range – please take my advice and stick with the 5 or 8 year old.  It has none of that familiar El Dorado nose or flavour.

    This is the worst Demerara I have had so far. Avoid.

    0.5 stars

     

  • Havana Club 7 Anos

    Havana Club 7 Anos Rum ReviewHavana Club 7 Anos is the first in the Havana Club series in terms of price which is intended as a sipping rum.  The other Anejo’s and White Rum’s in the range are aimed entirely at mixing.  There is little to say about Havana Club that hasn’t been said before.  I think the rum is still largely unavailable in the US of A and I’m pretty sure Bacardi have even taken advantage of this to issue their own “Havana Club” brand of rum.

    When Bacardi had to re-locate to Puerto Rico, Havana Club remained in Cuba and remained largely under government control.  I’m not sure if that situation still exists.

    The presence of Havana Club particularly in the UK has increased rapidly recently.  Most supermarkets carry the Havana Club range of rum’s and it is readily available in a lot of city centre bar’s, especially the trendy “cocktail” orientated establishments.  Even my local Italian restaurant stocks the younger Anejo and white 3 Anos.

    Havana Club 7 Anos is presented in an unusual tall sleek black bottle.  Usually I would find a screw cap to be a bit of a disappointment but the screw top is good quality and unusually it adds to the overall presentation.  The black bottle is broken up by the red Havana Club motif and the usual Republica De Cuba Garantia green sticker.  This sticker certifies that the rum is from Cuba and is found on ALL Havana club products.  The rum is bottled art 40% and retails at around £23-28 in the UK.  I was fortunate to pick up a bottle for just £20 on sale.

    The rear of the 7 Anos gives Don Jose Navarro’s tasting notes (Master Blender)

    “It has an intense and complex aroma, with a palate of honey, vanilla, chocolate, cocoa, sweet tobacco, dry fruits and spicy notes.  The finish is powerful and full bodied”

    Well it sounds impressive, the front label also states the rum should be enjoyed over ice or in a premium cocktail.  All impressive sounding stuff.

    So how does the rum look in the glass? Well the bottle certainly doesn’t give much away!  In the glass the rum is medium to dark brown/amber colour.  The nose is quite sweet but I detect the same scent that I have experienced with the Havana Club Anejo.  It’s a kind of petrol like smell, maybe a little like engine oil or nail varnish perhaps smokiness maybe tobacco.  It’s a sweet yet chemical like smell.  It’s not a smell I’m overly keen on.  It may be the oakiness of the wood but there is something in the nose that I really don’t like.  Their is a creamy/buttery vanilla like smell as well common in these lighter Cuban style rum’s.  The remaining nose is oak, dry tobacco and smokiness.  I’m detecting little by way of fruit in the nose.

    When sipped the first taste I really get is a little like when you splash a little after shave on your mouth and you can’t help but taste it. It’s very hot, spicy and very bitter.  Luckily the burn isn’t bad and very short.  Subsequent sips are much smoother.  If you slosh the rum around a little in your mouth you get a more satisfying flavour.  The engine oil/oakiness of the rum is present but it isn’t as overpowering as in the Anejo.  The finish is quite short and very bitter.  The note of cocoa by the Master Blender is spot on.  Personally I prefer Drinking Chocolate to Cocoa and my rum tastes are fairly similar.  This is a real Cuban style rum.  One which would be enjoyed with a big cigar.  Its smoky and bitter it reminds you of snooker halls full of smoke or old fashioned gangster movies.

    My own personal preferences are one of the reasons I resisted “scoring” rums for so long.  However, I hope if you read my reviews in full you will be able to make an informed decision on whether the rum is for you.  After all I enjoy a lot of my rum with cola, a lot of people see this as an aberration!

    Speaking of cola I best add some to the Havana Club.  The rum does mix surprisingly well the bitterness and notes of tobacco lose their edge.  The “Havana Cuba smell” which I still can’t quite pinpoint (petrol, varnish, paint, tobacco maybe) is still there.  This can make the rum a little cloying and rich along with the cola.  I actually find it a bit sickly and unpleasant after a few.  Actually I’m beginning to come round to the taste profile in the Havana Club’s I don’t like is actually tobacco like which is why it makes me a little queasy.

    The Havana Club 7 is a good rum, well crafted, it doesn’t seem to have been messed with – it’s authentic Cuban rum.  Unfortunately there is just something in its profile that I just don’t like.  In the style I would go for Matusalem 15 or Bermudez Aniversario first but that is purely my preference.  I must score it as I find it though.  There is no point fudging my results by judging rum’s on how well made or “authentic” they are.   I’m certainly not going to change my opinion to satisfy other people’s viewpoints.

    This is a good example of a 7 year old Cuban rum.  If you especially like Cuban rum add a half or full star to my rating.

    2 stars

     

     

     

    This rum is available from

    THEDRINKSHOP

     

  • Rum of the Year 2021 – Shortlist

    Rum of the Year 2021 - Shortlist rum review by the fat rum pirateRum of the Year 2021 – Shortlist. It’s that time of year again when I go over all my reviews of the previous year. The aim to select the shortlist to make up the Rum of the Year contenders.

    Over the years I have built a few “rules” into the selection. Only one entry per producer, being one of them. I’ve tried to stick with a shortlist of 5 rums – so 5 rums from 5 different producers/brands. I also try and ensure that any Rum of the Year is still obtainable.

    Due to the explosion of bottle flipping or the secondary market (to give it its more “respectable” moniker) in the rum world – this is unlikely to be possible going forward. The good stuff especially, if I have reviewed it early in the year will likely be long gone from shelves come year end.

    Unless, of course the rum is a continuous release. However, we are increasingly seeing producers releasing more limited “one off” releases of selected barrels/vintages/finishes as opposed to new releases to their core line ups.

    I will also concede that for this years award I have not been quite as prolific in terms of the number of rums reviewed in 2021. Especially, the latter part of the year. There is no one reason for this. Work, kids, the pandemic, lack of motivation/interest maybe oddly enough drinking too much have all contributed, I guess.

    I never felt the need to go on an announced “hiatus” though, as so many bloggers seem to do. I have to say such public demonstrations of “pausing” the blogging are usually not a good sign. Very rarely do we ever see such bloggers return full time, in any meaningful way. I often feel it is a bit of a cry for attention. Maybe they hope for some kind of affirmation, that they are really important and needed by the rum world? I don’t think many (if any) of us really have that kind of pull or influence.

    So for this years award I will be compiling a shortlist of all the rums I have given 5 star reviews to this year. There are only 7 in total with 3 from one producer and 2 from another. We have 4 different producers/brands competing in total.

    As of 2022 I will be back reviewing around 3-4 rums per week. I’ve got quite a stash of samples and bottles to review. I have quite a few examples of multiple rums from single producers/brands. Whilst I won’t go down the route of reviewing multiple rums in single posts or doing any capsule size reviews (a la WhiskyFun) I may do a week devoted to a particular producer, where I post reviews on a daily basis of individual rums.

    Anyway enough of my rambling on here (in no particular order) are the contenders for Rum of the Year 2021

    Foursquare Rum Distillery Sassafras Rum review by the fat rum pirateFoursquare Rum Distillery Sassafras

    Being asked to choose my favourite Foursquare rum of recent years has increasingly become like being asked to choose your favourite child. It’s a hopeless task and I’m grateful that I didn’t use the 1-100 or 50-100 scoring system as adopted by so many reviewers. I would really have struggled with such minute detail.

    This is effectively a longer aged version of the legendary 2006 and another collaboration with Velier. So it will always likely to be a contender…..

    Next up we have a rum from a bottler that is perhaps most well known for its “budget” priced independent bottlings.

    Mezan Diamond Distillery Guyana 2007 P.X. Cask Finish Rum review by the fat rum pirateMezan Diamond Distillery Guyana 2007 PX Cask Finish

    A more Premium offering from Mezan this time with this wonderfully PX finished Demerara rum. It is worth noting that Marussia Beverages who are behind the Mezan brand also act as the importer of Foursquare rums in the UK. So they know their stuff. This rum in particular reinforces that.

    It was actually my wife that pushed the button on this one as a surprise birthday gift.

    Next up we have a rum from possibly one of the most famous and biggest brands in the world. Released in collaboration with one of the most famous Independent bottlers/distributors.

    Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection rum review by the fat rum pirateAppleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection

    This rum was released alongside a 1984 edition as well. Released in collaboration with Velier – though as Luca Gargano made very clear is 100% an “official” Appleton Estate release. This was perhaps the gentler, more familiar of the two Hearts Collection releases of 2021. Still 100% Pot Still Jamaican Rum but with that distinctive Appleton finesse.

    A truly wonderful rum. Likewise for me anyway was its older sister

    Appleton Estate 1984 Hearts Collection Rum Review by the fat rum pirateAppleton Estate 1984 Hearts Collection

    Which hasn’t been quite as well received in certain quarters. I didn’t hear many objections in the tasting held by Luca Garano and Joy Spence and the rum hasn’t received bad reviews but it seems to have left some people a little underwhelmed.

    Not me though. I thought it was excellent and quite enjoyed its more challenging, intense profile.

    It wouldn’t really be a Rum of the Year contest without an entry from Foursquare’s Exceptional Cask Series. This year we have two entries in the running.

    First up is the 16th release in the series and a follow up to Nobiliary.

    Foursquare Shibboleth

    A rum released to show a people it could be done. Something which Richard Seale is now beginning to explore more. As a recent interview question answer attests to

    “Make more rum – age it longer”

    This was a wonderful balance of tropical ageing and cask management to give a rum far more interesting than its “make up” might have suggested. All indications suggested an older version of the 2004.2005 etc line up. This offered something very different.

    Great stuff.

    Not to be left out of the running we also have another 5 star offering from Foursquare in the shape of the wonderful

    Foursquare 2009 Rum Review by the fat rum pirateFoursquare 2009

    Another Exceptional Cask Series rum released (in the UK) in summer 2021. Excellent stuff once again.

    So that gives us 3 releases from Foursquare in the running.

    Our final rum in contention for the 2021 Rum of the Year is from Elixir Distillers who took the crown last year. Once again they have not disappointed with the follow up to last years Rum of the Year Winner Black Tot 50th Anniversary

    This time they released a Limited Edition rum to commemorate 100 years since the last Rum Ration was given to Austrailian sailors aboard British Royal Navy ships.

    Step forward our final contender for Rum of the Year

    Black Tot Master Blender's Reserve Rum 2021 rum review by the fat rum pirateBlack Tot Master Blender’s Reserve Rum 2021

    Once again a really top example from Master Blender Oliver Chilton of a blended Navy Style rum. Blending together really old stocks of Navy rum with fresher younger distillates from the usual suspects and Australia.

    Certainly a rum not be missed.

    I will be revealing the winner on the 31st December 2021. I am actually away between Christmas and New Year this year. So I am back in the house on the 30th so plenty time to get it sorted

    As usual if a rum isn’t in the running I either

    a) Didn’t score it highly enough (i.e. a 5 star rating)

    b) Or I simply did not review it in 2021

    Cheers