Kill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years – Port Ellen Finish

Kill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years - Port Ellen Finish Rum Review by the fat rum pirateKill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years – Port Ellen Finish. In all honesty, looking over my notes I thought I had reviewed more Guyanese rum from Kill Devil, than I actually have. It seems a lot of my Kill Devil reviews have been from Hampden Estate, Jamaica.

Anyway back to Guyana we are. This is another Single Cask and Cask Strength rum from Kill Devil. Kill Devil for those who aren’t in the know is the rum branch of Hunter Laing, who are more famous for their independent whisky bottlings.

Which goes some way to explain how they have got their hands on a ex-Port Ellen cask to add a secondary maturation to this rum.

In actual fact this “cask” is a Sherry Butt. So what we have is a rum being partially aged in a cask which was also used to age both Sherry and Whisky. It must have been quite a big Sherry Butt (some can house up to 600 litres of spirit) as there were 690 70cl bottles available of us this rum when it was launched last year. I’ve only been able to find this rum for sale at The Whisky Barrel. Actually I lie I was able to find it listed as sold out on The Whisky Barrel!

Bearing in mind that they have numerous other bottlings of rum which were available in much smaller quantities still available I am unsure as to where all 690 bottles have gone? I doubt The Whisky Barrel has sold all 690, besides which it doesn’t state this is a Whisky Barrel exclusive.

What is also puzzling me is that the Sherry Butt maturation is the “finish” so this rum must have been in another single cask capable of housing 690 70cl bottles worth of spirit. Most single cask rums I have seen running at Cask Strength seem to have bottling runs of between 250-350. Certainly much lower than this out turn.

Another puzzle is the exact still this rum was distilled on. It states Pot Still Diamond Distillery. So we have a choice of three – Enmore, Versaille or Port Morant. I suppose feasibly if we have a “blending” of two casks before entering the Sherry Butt (as the numbers don’t make that much sense) we could have rum from differing stills. It is more likely to be two very similar casks of the same “run” of rum, however. I hasten to say this is all just speculation.Kill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years - Port Ellen Finish Rum Review by the fat rum pirate

I am also unaware of how long the initial maturation was. Which I assume was in an ex-bourbon barrel. Nor do I know where all the ageing took place. I am treating this as having spent only a minimal amount of time ageing in the tropics. Which is nothing new for a European Indie bottling.

The rum was distilled in April 2008 and bottled in 2019 noted as being aged 11 Years. As mentioned the only place I have seen it was at The Whisky Barrel, where it retailed for £70. The rum has been bottled at 60.9% ABV.  The Sherry Butt in which the rum has enjoyed the “finish” previously held Port Ellen Scotch Whisky for 25 years.

For those of you unfamiliar with Port Ellen distillery, the distillery was to be found on the isle of Islay. Again for those with little Whisky knowledge the island is famous for its style of peated whiskies.

So without further ado lets move onto the fun part.

In the glass we have a light golden brown liquid – which pretty much matches what I expect of an uncoloured rum of this age which has been mostly aged on the continent (of Europe).

The nose is very interesting. It is around 70% “rum” and 30% “peated whisky”. There are sweet familiar “rum” notes of licorice, molasses, toffee and vanilla which nestle nicely alongside a touch of peat bog, tar and some undeniably “whisky” like savoury aromas.

It’s all very interesting but very nicely balanced and I really quite like this. Please note at this case Peated Whisky is NOT my whisky of choice. I’m a bit sedate with my whisky preferring Bourbon Whiskey and at a push the Speyside style of Scotch. That said I haven’t tried an awful lot of Scotch. Anyway I digress….

Sipped at the full strength ABV it’s certainly a very fiery affair. The initial entry is full on peaty smoke and tar. Christ the whisky finish is certainly doing it’s work on the entry. That said a few more sips and my palate seems to be enjoying the peaty entry a little more.

As the Kill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years – Port Ellen Finish, moves into the mid palate more familiar notes appear. I’m not sure what still this is from to be perfectly honest. Elements of it remind me of the Versailles but the aniseed bite is more akin to Port Kill Devil Guyana Aged 11 Years - Port Ellen Finish Rum Review by the fat rum pirateMorant. (Knowing my luck it’ll probably be the Enmore and I’ll be completely wrong!).

Molasses, treacle toffee and some smoky raisins come through as I keep sipping. There is a really complex array of spicy notes coming in and out of play as well. This is a very complex multi faceted spirit. It’s almost like a mixed Whisky and Rum in many ways.

The finish as you might expect at an ABV of over 60% is long, warming and fiery. That said it has a nice balance to it and the smokiness and peatiness fade nicely into some treacle toffee and raisin notes. It’s long, complex and very tasty.

I enjoyed this a quite a bit more than I thought I might. It’s suitably different to warrant a purchase. If you can track one down.

 

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  • Cachaca Japi Classica

    Cachaca Japi Classica Rum Review by the fat rum pirateCachaca Japi Classica. This cachaca hails from Itupeva, Sao Paulo. It is produced at the JP Distillery. Cachaca production at JP Distillery began as far back as 1890. However, in 1925 the property on which the distillery was housed was sold to an Italian immigrant Cyrineo Tonol.

    Cyrineo decided that he wished to cultivate coffee as it was more lucrative so the distillery was deactived and the cultivation of coffee beans began. Unfortunately partly due to the US Stock Market crash and the resulting “Great Depression” demand and the price of coffee plummeted between 1929 and 1931.

    Whilst the family were able to find other ways to make the land profitable the distillery wasn’t reactivated until 1948. Cachaca Japi was born.

    The name Japi refers to the Serra do Japi, which is the mountain range in which the JP Distillery is located. I’ve been unable to find out why the distillery is called JP unfortunately.

    Cachaca Japi do have a website but I struggled to get it to translate into English. I’ve pieced together the best information I could work out! So bear with me if anything is wrong.

    Cachaca Japi Classica has been aged in Amendoim barrels for 9 months. It has been bottled at 39% ABV. In Brasil I bottle will set you back around $R25-30 (£4.50 – £5.60 UK). Where we to sit in the UK I would expect it to be priced at around £25-30.

    Prior to distillation and bottling the sugar cane is produced and harvested manually on site. All sugar cane is then processed within 24 hours and the juice begins the fermentation process. Once completed distillation takes place on Copper Alembic Pot Stills only. No column distillation is used at JP distillery.

    So let’s move on and see how I found this particular “white” cachaca.

    In the glass we have a crystal clear liquid, the 9 months of ageing in Amendoim have not added any colour to the spirit.

    The nose on Cachaca Japi Classica is very pleasant with very minimal alcohol fumes. I was expecting a bit more fire to be honest. It noses a lot “older” than I was expecting. It has a lovely elegant floral balance. Rosewater and some grassy notes mingle along really nicely.

    Further nosing reveals some light citrus – lemon and lime and a touch of grapefruit. There is a slightly herbal note as well with hints of lemongrass and some light basil.

    There are some aromas of toffee and ginger as well.

    It’s a really complex nose for such a young spirit. There are no off notes and it all works quite nicely.

    Sipped neat it is a real palate cleanser of spirit. Full of clean citrus and vegetal notes on the initial sip. A good hit of spices as well – ginger and a touch of white pepper. As you move into the mid palate the cachaca becomes a little bitter with more spice and some woody notes.

    The more floral aromas that were present on the nose are in the mix throughout giving this cachaca and extra layer of complexity.

    Finish wise, like many cachacas at this ABV it isn’t overly long or complex. You get a fair amount of spicyness left behind but this is more young alcohol than anything else. That said this cachaca is marketed more as a mixer/shot than a Premium Sipping Cachaca.

    Cachaca Japi Classica Rum Review by the fat rum pirateUsing Cachaca Japi Classica for mixed drinks makes for some excellent classic drinks. A Caiprinha with Classica Japi Classica is a really enjoyable spicy/citrus heavy affair and Ti Punch is really great – a bit more ABV would have made this even better.

    The 9 months in the Amendoim wood has really given this a bit of an edge over most white unaged cachaca. I think it has really tempered some of the young alcohol. Kind of smoothed off the edges and added a nice layer of complexity in its place.

    Good stuff – I’d certainly be keen to try their Ouro given the chance.

     

     

     

  • Angostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years

    Angostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateAngostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years. It’s been a long time since I have reviewed anything from Angostura or for that matter Trinidad Distillers Limited.  Until a few days ago I wouldn’t have been expecting to be sitting down and reviewing this rum either.

    However, we have Amazon sales to thank for todays review. I was looking for something slightly above supermarket standard as a slightly more premium mixer/sipper and found this on offer for £24.99.  The way prices are going in the UK at the moment I figured it wasn’t a bad price, so I plumped for a bottle.

    Angostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years is produced on a multi column still at Trinidad Distiller Limited. It is a blend of 7 different rums aged in ex-bourbon barrels. Once blended together the rum is then “filtered” – which sounds like something I’d expect to hear in Vodka marketing.

    Sadly that is pretty much all I can find out about this particular rum. In the UK it is bottled at 40% ABV and a 70cl bottle will usually set you back around £32 The Whisky Exchange usually have stock.. Which is in keeping with similar rums such as Bacardi’s 8 Year Old, Flor de Cana 7 and Doorly’s 8 Year Old.

    My experience with Angostura products in the past has been mixed. I truly hated their heavily sweeteneed No1 Expression and was pretty much indifferent towards their Aged 5 Years expression and their 1919. The core range doesn’t experiment toAngostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateo much and the only noticeable difference as you work your way up is the amount of sweetening they use. For this bottling the Hydrometer bobs at 40% ABV – but I do still suspect that there is some sweetening or alterations post distillation.

    With little else of note to say we may as well press on and get on with the nosing and tasting of this rum.

    Angostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years in the glass presents itself as a classic golden rum. On the nose it’s very much influenced by the barrel. So plenty of vanilla and soft oak tones. It’s not hugely woody but it is definitely taking most of its flavour profile from the barrel. I doubt the actual distillate off the still had much “going on”.

    It’s sweet but not overly floral like some Angostura offerings. Light caramel, peanut brittle and some shortbread. It’s easy going and accessible. It has a nice balance to it.

    There are no real “bum” notes with this rum. Unfortunately it lacks any real depth on the nose. There’s also a slightly alcohol/ethanol led undercurrent which is a little disappointing to find in a 7 year old rum.

    Sipped it is very easy going – sweetness leads the way with a lot of vanilla, caramel and those peanut notes. There is however a slight bitterness on the after taste and again the alcohol just doesn’t feel as well integrated as I might have expected.

    The mid palAngostura Premium Rum Aged 7 Years rum review by the fat rum pirateate is especially “hot” on the alcohol side. It’s not so much that it has a strong alcohol burn it just has quite a high alcohol like taste. It feels as if a shot of vodka has been mixed in with the rum.

    Even when mixed you still get this strong alcohol flavour lurking beneath the sweeter notes and the soft oak. The rum has a fairly nice mouthfeel initially and it goes down really easily whether mixed or sipped. It just has that after taste that is a little off putting.

    Even at £25 I can’t see me buying another bottle of this. It’s not a terrible rum but it is a little one dimensional. It’s bang average if I’m being honest.

    I think it might be a while before I review another Angostura rum………….

  • Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima

    Tamosi Kanaima Guyana Versailles Still rum review by the fat rum pirateLevy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima. I’m no stranger to Independently bottled Demerara Rum. Which is what this intriguingly named release actually is.

    I’ve also reviewed two of Levy Lane Rum Co’s more “regular” (ie not Single Cask) releases. Overall, I’ve been quite impressed with both, so I’m looking forward to this review.

    Reading up on “Kanaima” both on Tamosi’s own website and various sources around, it is taken from Caribbean/Guyanese folklore. Kanaimi refers to “the spirit of blood vengeance, when someone dies of suspected foul play”.

    Sounds kind of nice doesn’t it? I don’t think there is much point me going into too much detail about it in a rum review. Especially when I’ll only really be re-writing what is already available. So go look at the links and we’ll stick to the liquid in the bottle.

    Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima was distilled back in 2004, on the iconic Wooden Single Pot Versailles Still. It was bottled in 2020 at 16 years old. Got to say I much prefer when Independent bottlers refer to the rum they are bottling by the name of the still.

    This particular still has been moved from Versailles to Enmore in 1977 and then onto Uitvlugt in 1993 and finally, to what looks to be its final home – Diamond Distillery/Demerara Distillers Limited in 2000.

    There is considerable licence there to have referred to it in a number of different ways. Often Independent bottlers try to match the date of distillation with the estate or just refer to where the still was originally housed. Often it might be just noted as Diamond Distillery. I don’t claim to be a historian and I’m easily confused. The name of the still and the date of distillation is fine with me.

    Prior to being put into barrels the rum was coloured with caramel. Over the past few years Demerara Distillers have given us various reasons for the sweetness and colour of some of their rums. The El Dorado range has been noted, especially with the higher aged expressions, as containing significant amounts of additives. We’ve heard of barrels being coated with caramel/molasses prior to the ageing process. Such is the level of obfuscation around this, speculation will continue.

    Anyway, lets get on with some clearer facts about this particular bottling. Unlike the previous two bottlings in the Tamosi range, this is a Pure Single 100% Pot Still Rum. I’ve been assured that Levy Lane Rum Co have not added anything to the rum and they have been assured that only spirit caramel for colouring was added prior to ageing.

    Levy LanLevy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima rum review by the fat rum piratee Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima has been bottled at Cask Strength of 58.9%. The Hydrometer bobs nicely at around 59% ABV. 275 bottles were available on release. You can pick a bottle up for £120 at The Whisky Exchange. I suspect, as this has been out a couple of months (I go as fast as I can) there won’t be too many bottles available.

    Presentation wise Tamosi have housed this in a “Velier Style” opaque “wine” bottle with a nice contemporary presentation. It doesn’t look home made or a little old fashioned like a lot of Indie bottlers. It’s sleek and modern. The back label contains some information on the Kanaima.

    So I think that covers everything I know about this bottling so I think I’ll pour myself a small glass…….

    In the glass it’s dark. Not quite as dark as as I have seen some Versailles rums but its a mahogany dark brown with an orange/reddish hue.

    The nose is rich and treacly. Molasses, caramel, dark toffee and some light chilli heat. There’s a nice sprinkling of oak, a touch of vanilla and something which smells a little ermmm…..sooty. Interesting and not at all unpleasant.

    Further nosing reveals some raisins, sultanas and some red apple. A bit of green chilli and some dark chocolate.

    When sipped Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima is immediately recognisable as a big, juicy, thick, tarry Demerara rum. Liquorice toffee, roasted banana, plump raisins, juicy sultana and slightly savoury caramel/molasses overtones. It has a hit of spices and a subtle note of musty oak. This is wrapped up in a very intense delivery, especially at the full ABV.

    The mid palate softens up giving some lighter fruitier notes and some tobacco. A touch of olive and green apple, red apple as well. It’s multi layered and very complex. Although I would imagine that has spent some time in Europe it tastes very much like the Tropically Aged stuff from Velier, that sadly is no longer being issued.Levy Lane Rum Co Tamosi Kanaima rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Even at the full ABV of 58.9% I found it highly drinkable and felt no need to add any water. If you like these dark intense looking Versailles still rums for the fruity and molasses flavours then you’ll really enjoy this.

    The finish is long and well rounded with tobacco, olives, spicy oak and a coating of caramel, molasses and some red grapes. It fades out with some really nice notes of liquorice as well.

    This is a complex full bodied Demerara rum. It’s another winner for the Levy Lane Rum Co and their Tamosi brand.

     

     

  • Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum

    Cockspur Old Special Reserve RumCockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum. I always think of the cricket, when I see Cockspur. Which is strange, because aside from being a mean left handed fast bowler in my youth, my adversity to having small hard things thrown at me at speeds of up to 60mph, largely diminished my interest in the game.

    That said, I was more than happy delivering a “full toss” (no sniggering at the back), especially at my PE teacher or kids from rival schools.

    Anyway I digress. Cockspur have over the years sponsored various cricket competitions throughout the West Indies and the Caribbean.

    Cockspur Fine Rum is probably the most recognised expression in the Cockspur portfolio. It has long been very easily available in the UK. Indeed it was one of the first “premium” branded rums I tried once I gravitated from Supermarket own make rum. Yes, I started at the very bottom. There is little snobbery on this blog.

    The brand was re-booted in the UK in 2019. It is now handled by The Cockspur Rum Company, who are based in Warrington. Distribution of Cockspur was passed to Quintessential Brands in 2017. A quick google of the two companies reveals both are coming out of the same address. So although Cockspur doesn’t appear on the Quintessential website it appears they are still involved with the brand.

    I thought I had viewed a UK or European Cockspur website a while back but I don’t seem able to find it at the moment. It might have been a figment of my imagination. There is a Cockspur.com website but it’s a little out dated and had no real useful information anyway.

    Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum hails from Bridgetown, Barbados and is produced at the West Indies Rum Distillery (WIRD), which of course is now owned by Maison Ferrand who produce Plantation, which is soon to be The Rum Formerly Known As Plantation – TRFKAP for short.

    Cockspur Old Special Reserve RumUnlike the Plantation line Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum has been distilled, aged and blended in Barbados. It says so on the front label. It doesn’t say anything about additives but I can confirm there are none as per the hydrometer.

    Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum has not been reviewed much at all online. It is only recently that I have seen this available outside of the Caribbean and the US. I do not recall ever seeing this for sale in the UK, until very recently. I’ve always enjoyed Cockspur Fine Rum, so when I saw this for sale I bought it immediately, along with the XO and the re-branded Cockspur Fine Rum. All will be reviewed shortly. I went for this one first as I hadn’t reviewed any variation of it in the past.

    Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum is a blend of Column and Pot Distilled rum. I am putting them in that order because I understand that the majority of the rum is Double Column Distilled rum with a smaller proportion of Pot Still rum added.

    The blend is aged in ex-bourbon barrels, for what I understand to be a minimum of 5 years. It has been bottled at “Island” strength (a number of Barbadian expressions, such as Mount Gay Eclipse, are bottled at a slightly higher ABV on Barbados, than they are when exported) of 43% ABV. In the UK you can currently pick up a bottle at Master of Malt and Amazon. Expect to pay around £30.

    Presentation wise the bottle is clean and uncluttered. You don’t get any information on the actual rum sadly. Just tasting notes and the fact that it is produced and bottled on Barbados. The labels have a slightly photo-copied look about them but only really close up. The actual bottle is a 3/4 stubby style bottle with a short neck. The rum is sealed with a wooden topped synthetic cork stopper. All in all it looks modern and has an appeal on the shelf.

    My curiosity is peaked by the fact that is noted as being around 5 years old so I am keen to learn how it compare’s to Plantation’s own flagship 5 Year Old Barbados rum. Which, I understand is now made using rum from WIRD only. I’ll point out at this stage that Cockspur is not part of Maison Ferrand. The brand is licensed out in much the same way Malibu is.

    So l better get down to business and see how the delivery is on this one (get it??).

    In the glass I am presented with a classic golden/dark rum profile. As this is a continuous product it is highly likely it has had some caramel added solely for colouring purposes. Cockspur Old Gold Special Reserve Rum has a slightly reddish hue to go alongside the golden/dark brown colour. Cockspur Old Special Reserve Rum

    Nosing the rum is quite light. Even by Barbadian standards the nose is not particularly punchy. There is a fair amount of booze on the nose. It does smell a little younger than I would expect. Maybe the information on it being around 5 years old is out of date. It’s a no age statement rum so its no big deal for me. I learnt a while back not to obsess over numbers. In fairness often reviewing rums without all the facts works best anyway…….I’m probably contradicting myself a bit there. Never mind just call me Mary.

    Further nosing reveals some toffee and a hint of caramel. A little vanilla. The nose is quite oaky and slightly astringent. Time in the glass brings out a bit more character. I’m getting some heavier notes now of burnt banana and some brown sugar.

    As a sipper Cockspure Old Gold Special Reserve Rum is a little rough and ready. The initial entry hints at toffee, chocolate and molasses but it is quickly taken over by a heavier, bitter note of oak and woody spices. As far as a Barbados rum goes it’s quite “heavy”.

    With further sips your palate seems to adapt to the overwhelming bitterness of the first sip. The initial entry improves with more of the toffee, caramel and brown sugar notes lingering for a longer time. There is also a fair bit of molasses like bitter treacle which when combined with the bitter woody oak isn’t as pleasant or as balanced as I would like.

    That said the sweetness does improve with further sipping and it does get a better balance. Finish wise it isn’t particularly long or very “fiery” you get most of the oak and spice and woodiness on the mid palate. I expected more from the finish but it just fades out quite quickly into a low burn on the chest.

    Cockspur Old Special Reserve RumThe back label recommends serving this over ice or with Ginger Ale for a Bajan mule. I mixed this both with Cola and Ginger Beer. It made a pretty pleasant stab at both drinks. In particular with Ginger Ale.

    Then again at £30 a bottle it should perhaps be a bit better than decent mixer. If you compare it to other Barbados rums such as Old Brigand, Doorly’s 5 or Mount Gay Black Barrel (I’ve not tried the newer blend so I’m talking about the older one) I just don’t think it is as good a rum.

    That said I didn’t find this particularly unpleasant and at the end of the day at least it is an honest Barbados rum.

     

     

  • Foursquare Rum Distillery Principia

    Foursquare Rum Distillery Principia Rum review by the fat rum pirateFoursquare Rum Distilery Principia. Finding things to say about Foursquare Distillery and Richard Seale are becoming increasingly difficult. I’m not sure how many Foursquare releases I have reviewed over the past 3 or so years. It must be over 20 easily by now.

    When I first got into rum, Foursquare were a respected distillery with a long history in producing classic Bajan rums, such as R L Seale’s and Doorly’s XO. There wasn’t a great deal of change to their portfolio, year in year out. That all changed in 2015 when Richard Seale revived the Exceptional Cask Series and began working more closely with Velier’s Luca Gargano.

    This is the third “Velier” Foursquare release. Richard however is at pains to make clear this is still very much a Foursquare product overseen right up to bottling by Richard himself. Luca and Velier are the distributor of the rum.

    Clearly there is a great deal of mutual respect between the two men, so it is likely the relationship is more involved than that. However Richard does not want Foursquare’s identity to be compromised by the Velier tag. Which is understandable.

    Nevertheless, Foursquare Principia comes housed in the familiar opaque 3/4 Velier bottle. Principia will retail at around the £120 mark. Distribution is likely to be mostly in mainland Europe but hopefully the UK will see some bottlings.

    As to be expected of a Foursquare/Velier release you get just about all the information you could want on the label. As a result we know the following without having to do any digging.

    Foursquare Principia is Single Blended Rum (Pot and Column Distilled Rum from the same distillery) under the Gargano Classification. Only a blend of 100% Pure rum (no additives) can be noted as Single Blended. The release like its predecessor Triptych comes as a 5,400 bottle run. Foursquare Principia has been matured for 3 years in ex-bourbon and 6 years in ex-sherry casks. It is released at Barrel Proof of 62% ABV. It was distilled in 2008 and bottled in November 2017. So it comes in at over 9 years old. I do not know the exact date of distillation. As it is a blend I suspect the exact date of each component may differ. It has benefited from 100% Tropical Ageing at Foursquare Distillery, Barbados.

    The colour scheme red,white and black seems to be the one adopted by Velier for all Foursquare releases. Velier have always done this with their bottlings. Keeping certain colour schemes for certain distilleries and stills.

    Anyway, without further ado I shall get on with telling you all just what this rum is like. Expectation is very high. I was fortunate to try this at London Rumfest and it was very good but this has been the first chance I have had to try it in a more familiar, more relaxed environment.

    I don’t have a great deal of this rum. Just a very generous sample from someone who was lucky enough to visit Barbados recently. Hats off to them for thinking of me. It’s greatly appreciated.

    If I am fortunate to get a bottle or two of this when it goes on release I’ll look at this review again. It may be with only a sample I miss a trick or two. You might wish to see this as my early thoughts on the spirit. Having said that I’m pretty sure I’ll be able to tell if this is any good or not.

    In the glass Foursquare Principia is dark brown with an orange tinge. It is a little “murky” with some sediment visible. This is not something that concerns me as it means it has not been filtered. I’m more than happy to try the rum as it comes out of the barrel as much as possible.

    The nose is quite oaky, initially it reminded me of Triptych but with a little more time in the glass it reminds me more of the 2004. There is quite a hit of “booze” but its not overly fierce. I wouldn’t guess it was such a high ABV. There is a nice weight of oak and a nice bourbon spicyness. The sherry maturation is much more subtle than the Port and Zinfandel casks.

    There is a sweetness and in time you do get the sherry notes. There is a lovely balance of oak, spice, sweetness and just enough “booze” to keep you on your toes. Red Grapes, raisin, all spice, touch of nutmeg and sweet and sour notes. It’s quite rich and the nose is full and very complex.

    Sipped, Foursquare Principia is a very different spirit to most of those that have went befFoursquare Rum Distillery Principia Rum Review by the fat rum pirateore it. It reminds me most of Criterion (not a bad thing at all). There are similarities to Triptych as well but I don’t find it quite as woody.

    It is a very intense sip. The intial entry is sweet and you get a real hit of sherry. The arrival is huge and lip smacking. The ABV is very deceptive and whilst it is very intense at 62% ABV you can hold it in your mouth long enough to appreciate it. It’s not overly sweet but has a lot of rich plump fruits – blackcurrants, cranberries and some more acidic gooseberries.

    The rum moves into a more complex mid palate. This is when you start to enjoy all the complex notes, created by the double maturation. This is as far as Foursquare are concerned quite a “heavy” rum. Familiar notes of vanilla are overtaken by a more sherry influenced wood. The maturation has really worked once you dig in.

    The finish is long and very satisfying. Warming oak notes and sweet spice runs nicely alongside a slightly tannic almost red wine like hit of stoned fruits.

    The sherry finish which may put some off is not at all overbearing. It just adds an extra layer of complexity and intensity to the rum. This isn’t as sweet as the Zinfandel and  Port Cask rums. Its much more in keeping with the 2006, Triptych and Criterion.

    I’m going to need an extra star at this rate…….

     

     

     

  • Chairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection 2006 13 Year Old The Whisky Exchange Exclusive

    Chairman's Reserve Master's Selection 2006 13 Year Old The Whisky Exchange Exclusive Rum Review by the fat rum pirateChairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection 2006 13 Year Old The Whisky Exchange Exclusive. I first noticed one of these Master’s Selection Chairman’s Reserve rums before Christmas 2019. I think it was exclusive bottling for a Belgian retailer, who’s name now escapes me.

    Royal Mile Whiskies had one in stock and then I learnt that The Whisky Exchange were getting their own release, as well. Being a big fan of Chairman’s Reserve and St Lucia Distillers I have been looking forward to trying one of these rums.

    One of the big pulls around these Master’s Selection rums, is that they are bottled at Cask Strength. Even the Premium 1931 series from St Lucia Distillers were bottled at between 43-46% ABV. This Single Cask release comes in at 56.3% ABV. I’m not fanatical about Cask Strength rum but its always good to try rum with less water!

    Chairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection 2006 13 Year Old is as mentioned a Single Cask rum – 286 bottles in total. It was distilled in 2006 and bottled in August 2019 – so it must have been distilled pre-August in 2006 as it is noted as being  a full 13 years old. It was aged in an ex-bourbon cask. The distillate comprises of 50% Pot Still rum from the John Dore #1 still and 50% from the Vendome Pot Still. It retails at £69.95 at The Whisky Exchange, which I think is a pretty decent price. (Providing it’s good of course)

    I have long been a fan of St Lucia Distillers and the Chairman’s Reserve brand. We’ve pretty much reviewed every official release (barring the latest 1931 – don’t worry it’s coming) and a few independents. To be honest whilst the official releases have been mostly on point the Independent bottlings have been a real mixed bag. The Berry’s 11 and 14 Year Old expressions were excellent. The Compagnie des Indes 13 Year old less so and the Silver Seal “Dennery” (Dennery Distillery was long when the distillate in that bottle was produced) was frankly awful.

    However, all the 1931 aged releases were decent so I have high hopes for this bottling. To recognise it’s more Premium appeal compared to the standard Chairman’s Reserve there are a few tweaks to the tradmark stubby rounded bottle. First up we get a cut out card sleeve to house the rum and a general update on the label to give more specific information on the rum and the collaboration with The Whisky Exchange. Secondly rather than a screw cap opening we are treated to a cork stopper. Nice. I must say I do miss the old style presentation/label as pictured – it was my first “Premium” rum purchase.

    Anyway lets move and see how this Cask Strength Pot Still rum goes down.

    In the glass Chairman’s Reserve Master’s Selection 2006 13 Year Old is a wonderful golden to dark brown colour with an orange hue. The nose is pretty big! I’ve poured my glass and its a good couple distance away from me and I can nose it a good half metre from the juice.

    Not though in the way you can noise the likes Wray and Nephew Overproof or a Clairin. This is a much more refined and less pungent aroma.

    I best get a little closer and take a proper nose.

    As the rum warms to the glass the more medicinal notes of pine cones and tarry brine integrate more with the softer elements of this rum. Pot Still Rum from St Lucia is quite “pungent” but the “funk” (if you wish to use such a term) is a lot more balanced than rum from Jamaica, for example.

    There is a wonderful oak and smoke char to this rum giving it a wonderful smoky aroma on the nose. This nestles beautifully alongside Dark Chocolate, Cocoa, Coffee and some sweet chewy toffee. Elements of this remind me of those flavoured toffees you used to get in multi coloured wrappers. Toffo’s! Of course, yeah this reminds me a little of the banana toffees you got in those.

    The nose is all rounded of nicely by some spicy notes of ginger and a slight hint of fruity berries.

    The nose is as complex as the 1931 series but it seems less complicated. For me the 1931’s could get a bit too busy with all the differing components in the blend. This for me has a slightly better overall balance.

    Sipped, when you are pretty much to a more standard strength St Lucia rum – is a big flavour explosion. Got to admit it has taken me a good few sips to get accustomed to this rum. It’s big.

    The initial entry is quite sharp with a lot of woody spice and some bitter dark chocolate and cocoa notes. It has that pine-cone/briny element to it as well. It’s bold and flavourful.

    It has a slightly medicinal note – not to dis-similar to the Rockley Still Style of rum from Barbados. This runs on into the mid palate which is a wonderfully lightly smoked affair. A slight note of pipe tobacco and salty brine are offset by some caramel sweetness and a nutty like aftertaste. Even at the full 56.3% ABV it is a fantastically complex and warming sipping experience. “Old Leather Armchairs” is a term Dave Broom has used in the past and I’m with him with this rum. It’s warm and comforting and full of character.

    Flavours keep coming with each sip. You get more sweet notes of sultana and raisin on the entry and mid palate. An almost peppery spice as well also creeps in and out. Each sip is familiar yet different.

    Chairman's Reserve Master's Selection 2006 13 Year Old The Whisky Exchange Exclusive Rum Review by the fat rum pirateThe finish is long and this is very much a rum to be taken slowly. You don’t need to sip a lot such is intense concentration of flavour. This is a rum to be taken little and not very often at all. Savour it. Allow the rum to swirl around your mouth. Then swallow and savour it for as long as you can wait for the next sip. It really is a rum that needs to be appreciated and taken slowly.

    You will find the more you sip this rum the more you will get from it. It is wonderfully complex and beautifully balanced. It has that distinct St Lucian flavour profile. To be honest St Lucia Distillers simply do not get enough credit for what they do. They don’t get talked enough about in Rum Enthusiast circles or on the various Facebook groups.

    As a result you’ll probably have a decent chance of getting a bottle of this as its not the latest Foursquare or Velier release.

    It’s every bit as good though.

     

2 Comments

  1. I’ve got a bottle if this one. It was distilled on the Port Mourant still. The Enmore is a wooden column still mate ? the sherry butt is an ex-olorosso butt and held Port Ellen whisky for over 34 years. Finishing period was just under 2 years for the rum. I’m really liking it, but then peat whisky is my preference.

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