Geographic Indications (GIs) : The Martinique AOC Explained

The Martinique AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) is perhaps the most famous and stringent set of regulations in the rum world. While many regions are only now debating the merits of a Geographic Indication (GI), Martinique has had its framework in place since 1996.

An AOC is a French certification granted to certain geographical indications for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products. In the case of Martinique, it sets out to define exactly what constitutes “Rhum Agricole Martinique.”

Unlike the proposed Barbados GI or the existing Jamaican GI, the Martinique AOC is not just a “recommendation” or a loose framework—it is a strict legal requirement enforced by the INAO (Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité).

The Rules of the AOC

Geographic Scope. All sugarcane must be grown, and the rhum must be distilled and aged, within the designated zones of the island of Martinique.

Raw Materials. Only fresh sugarcane juice is permitted. The use of molasses or sugarcane syrup is strictly prohibited under the AOC.

Sugarcane Cultivation. There are specific rules on which sugarcane varieties can be planted, the irrigation methods used, and even the yield per hectare.

Fermentation. Fermentation must be discontinuous (batch). While usually completed within 72 hours, it must not exceed a maximum of 120 hours. This ensures the freshness of the juice is captured before it spoils.

Distillation. Rhum must be distilled in a continuous multi-stage column still. Unlike Barbados or Jamaica, traditional pot stills are not permitted for AOC rhum. The distillation must reach an alcoholic strength of between 65% and 75% ABV.

Water. Only water from local sources may be used for dilution.

Maturation. The AOC defines specific categories for aging:

Rhum Blanc: Unaged, or rested for at least 3 months in stainless steel or neutral tanks.

Rhum Ambré (or Élevé Sous Bois): Aged for at least 12 months in oak vats or casks.

Rhum Vieux: Aged for a minimum of 3 years in oak casks with a capacity of less than 650 litres.

Additives. No sugar or flavouring of any kind is permitted. Only caramel for colour adjustment is allowed in very specific quantities.

What the AOC Protects

The AOC protects the term “Rhum Agricole Martinique.” It ensures that any bottle carrying this seal has met the highest standards of production and reflects the specific “terroir” of the island. It guarantees to the consumer that the spirit is made from 100% fresh juice, without additives, and is distilled to a specific style.

What the AOC Does Not Protect

It is important to note that Martinique does produce rhum that falls outside the AOC. These are often labelled as “Rhum Sucrerie” (made from molasses) or simply “Rhum de Martinique” without the “Agricole” or “AOC” designations. These do not have to follow the same strict rules regarding still types or aging.

In Summary/Key Takeaways

The Martinique AOC requires that rhum labelled as such:

Is produced exclusively from fresh sugarcane juice grown in Martinique.

Is distilled using a specific type of continuous column still.

Contains zero added sugar or flavourings.

Follows strict, legally enforceable definitions for aging (Blanc, Ambré, Vieux).

While some find the AOC too restrictive (particularly the ban on pot stills), it has undoubtedly given Martinique a level of prestige and clarity that other rum-producing nations are only now beginning to chase. It removes the “creative geography” and marketing fluff, replacing it with a hard legal standard.

As with previous articles, this is presenting the information as it is publicly available. Free from any contrived narrative or re-shaping of history. It deals solely with facts rather than opinions.

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  • Foursquare Rum Twitter Tasting 7pm (GMT) 18th August 2015

    #DoorlysTTWe are pleased to announce that we will be taking part in the Foursquare Rum Twitter Tasting in conjunction with TheFloatingRumShack.com and Foursquare Rum Distillery.

    World renowed Master Distiller Richard Seale be on hand to answer questions (please quote @FourSquare_Rum in any tweets) and @floatingrumshac will be on hand to keep things moving along.

    As Foursquare’s importer to the UK @euxdevieuk will also be following the action and will also be on hand to answer any queries regarding availability etc.

    The all important hashtag to keep an eye on the discussion as it evolves is #DoorlysTT.  I recommend anyone following the discussion uses the TweetDeck app to organise things.

    Some familiar faces from the UK will also be on hand to offer their views and opinions on the 3 rums on show.  I am in particular very excited to be trying 2 new expressions from Foursquare.  Doorly’s 12 has been around for a while but in very small quantites and I have not seen it available commercially in the UK before.  It has been on my bucket list for a long time!

    Along with the 2 Doorly’s expressions we will also be lucky enough to sample the new limited edition Port Cask Finish 9 Year Old rum.  This tasting promises to be a real treat!

    There are also two external live events running alongside the Twitter Tasting.  At The Rum Kitchen in London and The Liars Lounge in Manchester.  Look out for members of euxdevie tweeting from these venues.

    Just remember #DoorlysTT.

  • Karukera Silver

    Karukera are an Agricole Rhum producer from Guadeloupe. Karukera is the original
    Arawak (Caribbean Indan) name for Guadeloupe. Despite the very slick presentation (which caused me to overlook this brand) Karukera have been distilling and producing rhum since 189Karukera Silver Rum Review by the fat rum pirate5.

    The Esperence distillery in Sainte Marie – “Certain Origins do not Deceive” is the companies tag line.  Karukera have a very nice website unfortunately for me its all in French and resists translation.  There is a lot of information there and I can pick out bits but not a lot unfortunately! In all honesty the relatively modern presentation of all the Karukera rhums make me wonder if all this history is entirely correct.

    Digging around the internet I can find little information on the brand.  How long has the Karukera brand really been around?  In the end I contacted Cyril Weglarz of DuRhum.com who gave me the following information “Karukera is a brand created in 2006, they mainly age and buy rums from other distilleries (from Guadeloupe and Martinique), and the white rhum from Longueteau. They just have an ageing facility, no distillery” Cyril is one of the Rum Reviewers who like me is not afraid to scratch the surface rather than rely on being spoon fed by Rum and Brand Ambassadors.

    If you can find a bottle of Karukera Gold and Silver – their entry level rhums they will set you back around £30
    here in the UK.  They are bottled at 40% ABV and both tested 0-5 on the Hydrometer Tests.  As a Rhum Agricole it should be made from Cane Juice rather than molasses.  Beyond this I’m afraid I have little more information to offer. White usually unaged Agricole Rhum is very popular in France as it Ti Punch – a simple mix of sugar syrup, lime and white Agricole rhum.

    As part of the reviewing process I’ll be testing out the Karukera Silver in a Ti Punch as well as on its own and in mi
    xed drinks.
    In the glass (as you have probably guessed) the rhum is entirely transparent – no signs of any ageing etc.  It is likely it has been filtered to achieve this. The nose is quite typical of White Agricole.

    Grassy, vegetal with some stronger notes of varnish and shoe polish. At 40% ABV the shoe polish and varnish notes are much more subdued than with some white agricoles which are bottled at higher ABV’s.  The nose is quite nicely balanced and it reminds me very much of Wray and Nephew White Overproof or Rum Bar Overproof.  It has that element of funk.  Though maybe just slightly more refined and understated.

    Sipped the rum it is surprisingly quite smooth and easy to drink.  The “funk” is more subdued than the nose.  You get some nice notes of vanilla, peach and maybe even some red wine notes.  The overall sipping experience is fairly short – the flavours are quite short lived and are replaced quickly with vegetal Cachaca like notes – which also disappear quickly leaving only really a little spice on the finish.  It’s sort of okay but beyond this review I doubt I’ll be sipping it again.

    Karukera Silver works surprisingly well in a variety of mixed drinks – even with cola it seems to rub along quite well.  Something I definitely wasn’t expecting.  For a Ti Punch it is perhaps a little to light and easy going to really make it to the top but its not at all bad. Cocktails such as Mojitos work particularly well with this rum.  It’s light yet quite punchy (if brief) flavour profile mean that the drinks are well balanced but not overloaded with strong funk or vegetal notes.

    This might well be a good entry into White Agricole a way of feeling your way but it is not the “good stuff” that many people enjoy. In the UK it is also worryingly expensive at around £30 per bottle. It’s not bad but not great either.

    2.5 stars

  • J. Bally 7 Ans D’Age

    J. Bally 7 Ans D'Age Rhum Rum Review by the fat rum pirateJ. Bally 7 Ans D’Age. Or simply in English J. Bally 7 Year Old. The rums in the J. Bally range are named after the founder of the brand Jacques Bally.

    In 1917 an engineering graduate by the name of Jacques Bally bought the Lajus Plantation on the island of Martinique. It is reported that he built his initial column still. This was supplemented by equipment he bought from the nearby Dariste Plantation/Distillery, which went bankrupt in 1923.

    In 1930 Jacques Bally played a pivotal role in the design of the iconic square and pyramid style bottles that have become very much J. Bally’s trademark. More so perhaps than their actual rhum, you could argue.

    In 1989 the distillery as Lajus was closed. Production of J. Bally has continued however at the Distillerie du Simon, which produced Rhum Clement and Rhum J.M. amongst others. The rhum is still produced using sugarcane from Lajus, however.

    I don’t buy (or review) a huge amount of agricole rhum. When I’m out and about, mostly on holiday and I come across liquor stores I often find I get a bit confused. My lack of familiarity with agricole rhum means I often don’t know if the rum is well priced or not. I sometimes see something thinking its a great bargain as I confuse it with a more expensive bottle.

    Luckily when I spotted this one in Gibraltar it had an actual age statement that I could relate to. At first I did think it was one of the more expensive vintages in the Pyramid bottle. Now I’ll confess that I may have had a cocktail or two when I picked this up but at less than €30 and with enough Dutch Courage in me – I took the plunge unable to check whether it was indeed a bargain or not.

    Fortunately when this is available here in the UK it retails at around the £45-50 mark. Or rather it did the prices in the EU seem to have picked up a little since then. So I picked up a pretty decent bargain. That said Gibraltar prices are insanely cheap due to the low levels of taxation.

    So what do I have for review today?

    Well it is a 7 Year Old Agricole Rhum which has been distilled on a traditional column still at Distillerie du Simon, using sugarcane from Lajus. It has been aged in ex-Whisky and ex-bourbon barrels. Unlike some of J. Bally’s rum this is AOC certified as well. It is bottled at 45% ABV

    J. Bally 7 Ans D'Age Rhum Rum Review by the fat rum pirateI couldn’t find much more information on the actual rhum. There is a review from 2015 from Lance over at the Lone Caner. He has also reviewed a few other J. Bally rhums and has some interesting background notes (which I did find useful) I think even before reading his score his photos tell the story of how much he enjoyed the rhum……..

    Presentation. J. Bally 7 Ans D’Age comes in the afforementioned “Pyramid(e)” bottle. I’ve got to say it did get my attention. The rhum is sealed with a wax covered chunky cork stopper and you get a very nice, sturdy presentation box to store the rhum in. All in all its a very striking and very “Premium” looking product.

    So lets get on with the fun part. This rhum is also highly regarded by Serge over at Whiskyfun so I’m quite excited to try this…..

    In the glass we have a medium to dark brown spirit with an orange/yellow hue around the edges.

    Nosing, I was immediately reminded of  Rhum J.M. XO. in terms of the delivery. It is warm and elegant. The 7 years ageing in oak has taken away some of the rawer elements of this agricole rhum. That is not to say it isn’t a little on the “funky” side. It still has a grassy, herbaceous feel to it. It is definitely a sugar cane juice distillate  – no mistake.

    Even at 45% ABV it is surprisingly soft in terms of the booziness. Younger agricoles even at a lower ABV are often much sharper, grassier and boozier. Rather than feeling as though this rhum has had its wings clipped a little, it is more just the justification for ageing the rhum for 7 years in oak. It really has refined the rhum.

    It’s very much a “nosing” rhum and one that you will sip and savour at the same time.

    The nose has a good weight off vanilla and bourbon-esque oaky notes. This are well balanced along the grassier, herbal notes of the rhum. It has a fruity note as well – some peach and a little bit of sweet underripe plum.

    It’s a very well balanced, gentle nose. It’s not a fiery grassy agricole – it is refined and very inviting….

    J. Bally 7 Ans D'Age Rhum Rum Review by the fat rum pirateSipping J. Bally 7 Ans D’Age is as enjoyable as the nose. The entry is sweet with an icing sugar like note to it. This is quickly surrounded by fresh fruity/grassy notes of sugar cane, white grapes and some chewy caramel. There is a Lemongrass notes as well that runs right through this rum.

    On the mid palate you get some more spice and a nice splash of vanilla and some toffee/burnt caramel notes. It’s still a little herby/grassy unmistakably an agricole but again it wouldn’t be totally off kilter to someone new to Agricole Rhum.

    The 45% ABV has certainly helped the finish of this rum. It is a good length and has a slow gentle fade. There is some light smoke and tobacco on the finish alongside the warming oak, vanilla and lemon zest.

    All in all this rhum is a lot more complex than you might first think. It’s one of those rhums where the balance of all the components works wonderfully as a sipping rhum.

    I really enjoyed this. In fact I’m quite pleased when I’ve returned to it for this review that the Pyramid style bottle actually means there is a lot more rhum left in it than I had thought.

     

     

    ,

  • Barbados Distillers unite in push for a GI – Press Release

    BARBADOS DISTILLERS UNITE IN PUSH FOR A GI

    Mount Gay, Foursquare and Saint Nicholas Abbey have jointly agreed on a Geographical Indication for Barbados Rum as prepared by the Barbados Industrial Development Corporation (BIDC) in consultation with its legal counsel. The three distillers are the largest bottlers of Barbados Rum and together hold over 90% of the island’s aged reserves.

    A Geographical Indication means that a product’s “given quality, reputation or other characteristic…is essentially attributable to its geographic origin.” Under EU spirits regulations, “a name shall only be protected” if the production steps which give it this quality and reputation “take place in the relevant Geographic area.”

    Under the GI, Barbados Rum will be required to be matured in Barbados as the climate of maturation has a defining impact on the nature of a spirit.

    The value of rum increases as it matures. We cannot afford the loss of forex earnings by letting this production step happen outside of Barbados” – Larry Warren, proprietor, Saint Nicholas Abbey.

    The Barbados GI gives ample room for innovation. There are no restrictions on the type of stills used, long and short fermentation techniques are allowed, and either fresh juice, syrup or molasses may be used. Any yeast may be used, but non saccharomyces strains must be native.

    At Foursquare we have gained a reputation for innovation. I am happy to say the Barbados GI places no restrictions on our rum making methods.” – Richard Seale, proprietor, Foursquare Distillery.

    Unlike nearby volcanic Islands, Barbados is an Island of coral limestone with underground aquifers. Barbados is famous for the quality of its water and the GI retains a requirement for the use of Barbados water to make Barbados Rum.

    Till this day, Mount Gay uses the same water sourced from our centuries’ old well to make our Rum” – Raphael Grisoni, Managing Director, Mount Gay Rum.

    To protect the quality and reputation of Barbados Rum, maturation must be in new oak or in refill casks from a list of recognised wine and spirit denominations. Age statements must refer to the youngest spirit. Vats are not acceptable for age statements. To protect the integrity of Barbados Rum, the addition of sugar syrup and flavourings is prohibited; however, caramel colour under strict guidelines, will be allowed for consistency.

    The fourth major distillery in Barbados – West Indies Rum Distillery – is primarily a bulk producer of non aged rum acquired by Maison Ferrand in 2017. Ferrand has appealed directly to the political leadership of Barbados to overturn the work of the BIDC and has demanded to mature Barbados Rum outside of Barbados in wooden vats and to sweeten Barbados Rum with added sugar syrup. The former request would violate the EU’s requirement for production steps to take place within the protected geographic area.

    There is no restriction against making non-compliant rums. Under EU Spirits Regulations, a Barbados distillate matured in France and sweetened using sugar syrup, or any other sweetening agent, would acquire French provenance.

    A similar conflict is occurring in Jamaica where NRJ, (partly owned by Ferrand) is demanding to sweeten Jamaican Rum with added sugar syrup, a practice prohibited in Jamaica by statute since the 1930s. The other Jamaican distilleries stand in opposition to the change.

  • Rhum Clement L’Elixir XO

    Rhum Clement L'Elixir XO Rum Rhum Review by the fat rum pirateRhum Clement L’Elixir XO. Rhum Clement are one of the pioneers of Rhum Agricole on Martinique, alongside Rhum J.M they are perhaps the most well known producers on the island.

    This Clement L’Elixir XO is a blend of rhums aged for a minimum of 6 years. I cannot find any information which details the oldest rhum in this blend.

    The rhum is produced in the Agricole style following a 48 hour fermentation. Clement operate Savalle Column stills at their Simon distillery (they have 7 of these stills in operation), it is then aged in French Oak casks. This rhum has been bottled at 42% ABV. Price wise that seems to vary I have seen this rhum for sale at various price points between £/€90 and £/€140.

    Presentation wise Clement L’Elixi r XO is presented in a teardrop style decanter with a chunky cork stopper. A presentation box is provided (and is to be expected at this price point) to house the rhum. I think this rhum was released late 2017/early 2018. There is still availability however

    There are quite a lot of different Rhum Clement bottlings available at the moment. This rhum isn’t listed on their website but it is readily available online if you do wish to try and pick up a bottle.

    In the glass the  rum is a dark to golden brown with an orange hue. Nosing Rhum Clement L’Elixir XO is a very pleasant experience. It is rich, warm and inviting. There isn’t a lot of grassy or vegetal notes you often find even with more aged Agricoles.

    Blind nosing this I think I would pick it out as an Agricole but it is very cognac like. It reminds me very much of Barbancourt 5 Star.

    The nose is sweet with notes of brown sugar and toffee. Good weight of spicyness and oak. An almost cherry like note Some ginger and a tiny hint of aniseed.

    It isn’t the most in your face nose – at 42% ABV it is pretty mellow. It is a elegant style of rum rather than something pungent like a Jamaican dunder heavy rum.

    Further nosing reveals orange marmalade and a touch of cinnamon. A slightly floral grassy note appears towards the end.

    Sipping Rhum Clement L’Elixir XO is a wonderful way to spend an afternoon. It is beautiful on entry with lovely sweet orange, clove and sweet stem ginger cookies on the palate. It has an almost candied after taste.

    It is ridiculously easy to sip. The mid palate is really nicely balanced with really good zesty oak notes and a touch of bourbon spice.Rhum Clement L'Elixir XO Rum Rhum Review by the fat rum pirate

    The finish is perhaps the only disappointment – it’s not quite as long as I might have hoped. This means you do sip a little faster…..

    Having said that, the finish is also very nicely balanced at no point does this rum feel hot or “rough” in anyway. The finish is rich and warming with marmalade and oak spice which fades into a dry and woody finish. A touch short yes – but what is there is very very good.

    A hugely enjoyable expression of Agricole Rhum and easily one of the best I have tried so far.

  • Premium Rum The Impossible Task? – Part Two

    premium rum the impossible task part two by the fat rum pirateIn the first part of this series we touched upon how rums are labelled.  I used an example to show how confusing it can be to determine a Premium rum.

    Marketing and packaging play a huge role in what the end consumer buys.  No matter who you are, you will encounter and be influenced by marketing at some stage.  Even if you think you aren’t.

    It is fair to say that some Rum Producers are absolute masters at the art.  With big brand backing comes big advertising and marketing budgets.  Some producers have already taken steps to ensure that their products are deemed “Premium”.

    When I first began exploring rums I had little idea about Rhum Agricole.  I would still class myself as a bit of “newbie” when it comes to this  rhum category.

    Produced from Fresh Cane Juice. The cost of producing such rhum is more expensive than molasses based rum.  As a result Agricole producers are at a slight disadvantage when it comes to cost conscious customers.

    One of the ways Rhum Agricole producers ensure their survival is by selling a lot of unaged white rhum.  If you ever go into a larger Carrefour store in France you will be surprised at the amount of agricole rhum available.  A lot of this is at entry level prices.  I guess the mark up on such bottles isn’t great but the volume is.

    Once you get beyond these inexpensive white agricoles we get into aged Agricole territory. This is where the molasses rum world needs to wake up and take a look at how the French speaking population are doing it.

    As with Champagne and Cognac the Caribbean island of Martinique has ensured that their product is protected under French law..

    The AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée))  is the equivalent of the EU’s Protectedaoc Designation of Origin (PDO).  Which protects things such as Parma Ham and Wensleydale Cheese.  It sets out clear guidelines regarding production.  A link to the guidelines are here.

    The AOC decree elevates rhum from Martinique and gives it a status which others rhums cannot have.  It is a clever move and one which causes quite a lot of disagreementss about what rhum agricole can and can’t be!

    Despite the AOC other rhum producing islands are still held in high esteem.  Brands such as Haiti’s Barbancourt as are brands from Guadeloupe such as Longueteau and Damoiseau.

    It’s not just the AOC which makes me feel agricole producers have done more to elevate their products into “Premium” category, than molasses based producers.  It is also the way they have chosen to label and present their rhums.  I think this is where other producers could learn.

    Terms such as XO are used in molasses based rums.  It is only agricole producers though who seem confident enough to use terms such as VO or Rhum Vieux for rhums aged only a couple of years.

    La MaunyTaking influence from the ultimate luxury spirit Cognac – most agricole producers have adopted labelling which suggests “luxury”.

    Pictured is La Mauny VO (Very Old) the rhum is only 3 years old.  As you can see the presentation screams out Premium Rum – the decanter is particularly impressive.  I have a bottle of this at home and whilst I didn’t find the contents all that impressive – I certainly liked the packaging.  Compare this to a similarly aged molasses based rum.  You won’t get the fancy decanter!

    I’m not suggesting Molasses based producers should put average rums in fancy packaging nor am I suggesting this is what Agricole producers are doing.  They just seem to have more confidence in their aged products.

     I do feel though that by using some of the Cognac terminology in their labelling of rhum they have made it more consistent and recognisable than the various naming and labelling conventions used in Molasses based rum.  Admittedly it might still be confusing at times but I’d say easier to research the terms used in Agricole than try and decipher the various codes used in labelling molasses rum. 

    Despite all this though Rhum Agricole has still not elevated itself outside of French speaking territories.  Molasses based rum is still more popular worldwide.

    So what do molasses based rum producers do to market and package their rums to elevate them into the Premium category?

    Big brands such as Appleton Estate and Mount Gay have Appleton Estate Reserve Blend Rum Review by the fat rum pirateadopted a hybrid of largely meaningless names and age statements.  They occasionally use the odd Agricole moniker as well,

    Appleton Estate have Appleton Special, Appleton Signature Blend (formerly V/X), Appleton Rare Blend Aged 12 Years and Appleton 21 Year Old.

    Mount Gay release Mount Gay Eclipse, Black Barrel XO (Extra Old) and 1703.

    So what else has the molasses or industrial rum world been doing in recent years to try and elevate their “Premium” rums? 

    We’ll take a look at that in Part 3.