Rum Artesenal Guyana Rum Enmore

rum artesenal guyana review by the fat rum pirateRum Artesenal are a small Independent bottler from Germany.  They have bottled a number of rums from various sources over the past couple of years.

Unfortunately due to the size of the operation and the language barrier, I have been unable to find any other information on them.

Their rums are available in Germany, Denmark and other parts of mainland Europe.  I have not seen any bottlings from them in the UK.

Their rums are presented in stubby rounded bottles with cork enclosures and a very simple logo.  They post distillation and bottling dates on the bottles along with the usual ABV and country of origin information.  The first thing to note is that these rums seem fairly inexpensive, for what they are.  This rum retailed for around 50 euros.  However be aware that the bottle sizes are not 70cl they are in fact 50cl or half litre bottles (almost pint sized).

So here we have a Demerara rum from Guyana.  This one is from the Enmore Estate/Still.  It was distilled in December 1990 and bottled in September 2015 making it just shy of 25 years old. It is Single Cask and bottled at 61.2% ABV. Which they note as Cask Strength.  This would suggest that it has been mostly European aged.

Recently I have received information which suggests all Demerara rum which is exported from DDL is not aged for particular long periods before it is removed from the tropics.

What still the rums were distilled on can become a bit of a mystery.  DDL comprises of a number of stills.  Many of these stills were at one point housed at another distillery.  In some instances more than one distillery.  As a result some rums are labelled according to the still they are produced on and some are noted by the distillery they came from.  Others are just denoted as Diamond Distillery (the original name of the distillery where DDL now operate).

Luckily it seems many rums relating to “Enmore” are from the following still.

The Enmore two column still comes from the Enmore Distillery/Sugar Factory.  It was moved to DDL in 1993.  It is the oldest operating Wooden Coffey still and can produce 9 different marques of rum from light to heavy.  The rum is often used in Dary and Navy blends.

Unfortunately, this bottling refers to a Pot Still.  From looking at Marco Freyr’s outstanding essay on Demerara rum I have learned that there was a pot still at Enmore Distillery at the time of this distillation (in 1990).  It was a single Wooden Pot Still formerly from the Versailles distillery. Confused? You want to try researching this.  Word to the bottlers can you please just note the still the rum came from in future? It will make things a lot easier!  If anyone has more certain information please let me know.rum artesenal guyana enmore rum review by the fat rum pirat

I’ve reviewed a few Enmore rums – with varying results.  In line with most of the Demerara stills I have found both good and bad rum from most.

With little further information to add we will move straight into the nosing and tasting.

In the glass the rum appears to be uncoloured.  For a 24 year old rum it is light in colour – gold rather than the mahogany colour these aged rums are often presented at.  With a little help from E150.

Which is nice to see the bottlers are confident in the liquid and haven’t felt the need to adulterate the colour to suit popular opinion.  The Hydrometer also agrees that this is a spirit bottled at 61% (or thereabouts – its not accurate enough for 61.2%)

Sipped this rum is quite familiar – it reminds me of a Bristol Enmore I reviewed a while back.

It’s a dry, spicy rum with not much in the way of sweetness.  It has a hint of sweetness at the very beginning but it quickly gives way to a more harsh slightly metallic note.  I’m fairly sure that this rum is from the same still as the Bristol 1988 Enmore.

Even watered down it is still quite edgy and unforgiving.  It’s not particularly complex.  There isn’t a great deal going on here.  There is a lot of oak and I think all the vibrancy and youthful sweetness has been drained out of this rum by the ageing.  24 Years is a lot of ageing – especially in the same cask and particularly for a rum which is from a single cask.  It is worth noting at this stage that this rum has not benefitted from being blended with other rums, as is so often the case.

This probably should have been bottled much earlier or blended with other rums.  On its own it is simply just too dry and you end up feeling like all you are really tasting is a charred oak barrel.  Rather than become richer and more fruiter like a Velier bottling this has been dried out and overly spicy.

I wish I could give a few more tasting notes but unfortunately this is just all a bit one dimensional.

Disappointing and definitely not the greatest Demerara you will ever try.  I am grateful that I was given the opportunity to try this particular rum.  I wouldn’t totally discount this bottler in future – it is never fair to judge an Independent bottler on one failed experiement.

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  • Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection

    Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection rum review by the fat rum pirateAppleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection. My only hope with this review is that I have enough to write about to flesh out another full review. I fear I may have covered quite a lot of ground with my previous review of the Appleton Estate 1984 Hearts Collection.

    That said I’m sure I’ll find something to rattle on about. After all I’ve managed to review a whole host of Foursquare bottlings over the years and I (hope) I haven’t repeated myself too much.

    From the amount of views already on the post above, I am going to make an assumption that most of you have already read the review. If not the link is there for you. Based on that assumption I’ll move on. I won’t bore you all again with the details of how I came about trying these two bottlings.

    Now, upon publishing my review it came to my attention that a couple of other reviewers had scored the 1984 quite a bit lower than myself. It’s always interesting when reviewers, who I have respect for (they are a small handful, I must admit) have differing opinions to myself.

    The two reviewers in question are Serge Valentin over at Whisky Fun and Roger Caroni (not his real name) over at Le Blog a Roger. Both felt that the rum was too woody and dry. Whilst I can see where they are coming from, I just didn’t find that to be the case. Yes it was pretty dry and quite woody but I felt the intense fruity flavours and spicy notes still came through more than enough. It felt to me akin to the Velier Demeraras as opposed to the El Dorado range. It was just a much more concentrated/intense Appleton experience, than you would get from their standard range.

    I really enjoyed it and they enjoyed it less than me. This is why when reading reviews you should take notice of the notes made by the reviewer. As well as any score they may or may not give. It is not a case that one person is right and one person is wrong. They just taste things differently and (as all humans do) enjoy different things.

    Obviously in this instance I am right though……….

    There is no point asking me why another reviewer has given a different score or asking why I gave a higher score than the other reviewer. The only answers I can offer will come across as a touch on the blunt side! Or just plain rude.

    Anyway lets get back to the rum review………

    Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection is a run of 5000 bottles. So like previous Hearts Collection releases it is not a Single Cask release. It is a bottling of various barrels of the same marque, maturation etc of rum.

    Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection rum review by the fat rum pirateIt is a 100% Pot Still rum and Joy Spence once again will not reveal the marque of rum used in the release. The rum has been aged for 18 years in Jamaica in ex-bourbon barrels. The rum was bottled in 2021.

    For the geeks Total Congeners 688g/100 LAA. For those with deep pockets a 70cl bottle of Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection coming in at 63% ABV will set you back around £218 from The Whisky Exchange. Using the 1984 as a guide the price of the 2003 seems reasonable enough.

    Now as mentioned already this Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection rum does seem to have been more favourably reviewed/commented on when I have had a little look around the internet. By giving the 1984 a top score I haven’t given myself much wriggle room. That said if someone can tell me the difference between a rum scoring 96 and one scoring 95 I’d love to hear it……….(the answer isn’t 1 point smartarse)

    So lets get some of this in my glass………

    When poured the rum is a dark brown possibly slightly lighter than the 1984 but not hugely different.

    The nose is instantly more familiar than the 1984’s. It’s very typical aged Appleton and has much in common with the “new” 8 Year, 12 Year and the 21 Year “standard” Appleton releases. So you get a nice waft of treacly molasses, orange peel, citrus, toffee and some chocolate-y oak (?). Beneath this is a nice warming mix of all spice and Christmas Cake.

    It is undoubtedly more approachable and “easier” on the nose than the more intense 1984.

    Sipped it is a bit spicier than I was expecting and the initial sip is nice and fiery. I’m getting fair bit of ginger and a heavy hit of oak on the entry.

    However, as the palate adjust to the 63% ABV liquid the more the notes on the nose come through. The initial sip becomes much mellower. There is a nice intricate mix of honey, vanilla, toffee and chocolate going on.

    The mid palate moves into a more spicy and citrus led direction. There is a slight smokiness in the background. Although the oak is less prominent than in the 1984 the fruityness is similar. This time I feel we are getting more of the “warming” notes, I find in Appleton 12 Year. So more of the chocolate, a touch of coffee, maybe. It’s a bit like a nice warm hug in a glass really. It’s nice and beefy but it has a gentleness to it as well?

    As we move onto the finish we are treated to a long lingering spice and those wonderful chocolate, honey and vanilla notes. Which build nicely alongside a slightly herbal note and some orange no, hang on tangerine like notes.Appleton Estate 2003 Hearts Collection rum review by the fat rum pirate

    The finish is long and elegant and wraps this wonderful rum up nicely.

    I’m afraid I might look a bit like an Appleton Estate/Velier fan boy here but once again, I really don’t feel any reason not to give this a top score. It is dangerously drinkable even at 63% ABV.

    I’ll answer the question though which do I prefer the 1984 or 2003?

    I’d probably go for a bottle of this, given the choice – but I think both rums over something completely different. Both have been rums I have been really lucky to try and I am glad I was offered the chance.

     

     

     

  • Papa’s Pilar 24 Dark Rum

    Papa's Pilar 24 Dark Rum review by the fat rum piratePapa’s Pilar “Never a Spectator”.  Pilar was the name of a customised boat commissioned by Papa – Ernest Hemingway.  If you don’t know who Ernest Hemingway is then you can either visit the rum’s website for some information on  the rum, the boat and the man OR you can visit his Wikipedia page.

    Whichever page you vist or whatever prior knowledge you have on Hemingway one thing was pretty clear.  He enjoyed a drink and he especially enjoyed rum, with Mojito’s in particular being a favourite for Papa.

    I’ve chosen not to dwell on Papa too much as I will only be re-writing history which has already been documented extensively.  Plus I have plenty to write about the contents of this bottle.

    First up Papa’s Pilar 24 Dark Rum is another of those slightly sneakily named Solera Blended rums.  This rum, if the emblem on the bottles neck it to believed is Solera Blended in the US of A.  So what exactly do we have in this bottle you may ask? Well here goes as even before this rum was bottled and imported to the UK it has had quite a journey……

    Rums are sourced from Florida, Central America and The Caribbean.  It is a mix of potPapa's Pilar 24 Dark Rum review by the fat rum pirate and column distilled rums (I will be as bold as to guess the pot stilled rum is from the Caribbean but I may be wrong).  It is then Solera Blended in Florida.  Double Aged in Bourbon Barrels and then Port Casks.  It is then finished in Spanish Sherry Casks.

    The above explanation of the rums origins is part of the reason it has taken me so long to review this rum.  Often as part of my reviews I give my reasons for picking the rum and place of purchase.  In this instance I was asked to review the rum by one of my regular readers and contributors Matthew Rapaport, who also has a Rum Community (RumandCigars) on Google+.  Matthew often bemoans that he cannot get any of the rums I review so I thought I would sort that out for him.  I managed to get a bottle from The Whisky Exchange for £55.  The bottle is a standard US sized 750ml and the rum is bottled at 43% ABV.  The presentation I will skip upon with this review and will instead give you a few more pictures which will depict things far better then I can explain. (Yes that is a compass topped cork stopper).  The rum is bottled by Strong Spirits, Bardstown, KY for Hemingway Rum Company, Florida.

    So on with the rum.  The first issue I had with the rum was actually opening it.  The compass lid and metal chain look quite charming but the chain is easily detached and once you have prised the very tight fitting stopper off the bottle you encounter your first problem.

    Papa's Pilar 24 Dark Rum review by the fat rum piratePouring the rum.  Surely one of the most basic things if not THE most basic thing to consider when designing a rum (or any spirit) bottle.  The rum pours very badly and if you are trying to get an exact measure you have no chance.  If you try to pour a little it slopes down the side of the bottle due to the size of the neck.  Pour more and it works better but its still very messy and you need to be pouring into quite a wide glass to avoid spillage.  Such is the issue with pouring the rum I have decanted it into a standard bottle.  The rum bottle looks fantastic but its style over substance!

    Pouring the rum (eventually) it is a rich reddish brown with flashes of orange.  It’s lighter in the glass than in the stubby bottle but it is still clearly a dark rather than gold rum.

    With so much going on with this rum I had no idea what to expect.  Usually I can kind of guess the style at least of a particular rum.  In this instance I was totally in the dark and really didn’t know what I was in store for me.   I was expecting a certain sweetness due to the port and sherry ageing but other than that, not a clue.

    The nose is a mixed bag.  Sweet a little spicy, yet with slightly bitter coffee notes and notes such as raisin and toffee.  It reminded me a little of Cola, I cheated a little and read a review suggesting Root Beer – again yes notes of that as well.  However, I felt (and it has taken me a good few months to pin it down) the smell was familiar and knew that it wasn’t Cola.  Then it hit me – I mean after all what’s the worst that can happen? Dr Bloody Pepper.  I was nosing a rum which smelt like Dr Pepper. That mixed fruit  slightly spiced cola alternative.

    So clearly this was strange, a rum that smelt a lot like Dr Pepper.  Had the people responsible for this rum went a step too far in trying to be different? Well lets give it the taste test.

    As a Solera Blend with a “24” on the bottle some of the rum should be well aged.  MorePapa's Pilar 24 Dark Rum review by the fat rum pirate importantly for a rum which has cost me £55 I should be able to sip it.  Papa’s Pilar 24 is smooth, very little burn.  However, it is not as sweet as the nose would suggest.  There is a fair amount of orange peel or marmalade like bitterness, especially on the finish and the aftertaste.  It’s initially quite sweet in some respects it could be cloying but the sweetness is quite short lived.

    This isn’t a particularly unpleasant rum. Nor does it have anywhere near as many additives as I first thought (see the Hydrometer Tests page).  Unfortunately it is priced with a lot of other exceptional rums and even rums priced £20 below can more than match it in terms of complexity as a sipper.

    For me it is a rum which has been overcooked.  To many rums from to many different sources may not be the problem but ageing in their different casks has given this rum a bit of a confused identity.  I genuinely cannot really understand exactly what it is supposed to be.  It looks like rum, smells like Dr Pepper and tastes a bit like a kind of bitter coffee mixed with cola!  I’m using these more “basic” notes because this rum is such a mixed bag its the only way to describe it!  I couldn’t even detect many individual notes even if I try.

    The overarching feeling I’m getting about this rum is that it doesn’t taste like rum at all.  Whilst that is not always a bad thing (I don’t mind variety one bit) this one just comes out tasting a little bit to artificial and contrived.  The Cola and Dr Pepper references have been to often and any rum which tastes like a carbonated fruit flavoured soda is going to be very divisive.

    I just don’t get this rum and I doubt many will.  It’s not unpleasant as such just very, very strange……..

    1.5 stars

     

     

  • The Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum

    The Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum review by the fat rum pirateThe Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum. It’s proving quite dificult trying to keep pace with the output from the Foursquare Rum Distillery. Not content with various re-vamped releases from their existing portfolio such as higher ABV offerings of R L Seale’s, Doorly’s 3 Year Old and Doorly’s XO. Foursquare have also added further aged Doorly’s at 12 and 14 Years old and numerous (we are now up to release number 12) Exceptional Cask Series rums in the past 5 years alone.

    So you might have thought that their collaboration with Bailey Pryor and The Real McCoy brand might have led to a more static brand. That has definitely not been the mistake as the ABV has been increased on these offerings as well. A couple of Limited Edition rums have also been released.

    Today we have a 10 Year Old rum, which proved fairly difficult to source over here in the UK. Either we didn’t get many of these over here or I just completely took my eye of the ball when they were released. I finally found a bottle online at The Whisky Exchange. I paid a very exact £66.25 for my 46% ABV 70cl bottle.

    The Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum is presented in the standard stubby style bottle used by all The Real McCoy rums. It has a bulbous neck. The Real McCoy rums contain a lot of information on their labels. They are pretty much transparent. So we learn that this is a Single Blended Rum (Blended Pot and Column distilled rum from a single distillery). My bottle dated 2017, is one of 3000.

    It is also worth noting that the rear label of this rum notes that the blend of rums is aged seperately for 12 years in American Bourbon barrels and 10 years in Virgin Oak. So the age statement notes the minimum age of the rum in this bottle. Do we expect anything less from Mr Seale?

    The Real McCoy rums have been aged in heavily charred oak cask, to perhaps. differentiate them from the official Foursquare bottlings. It is also noted that this blend of rums has a high ratio of Copper Pot Still distillate. So we should be in for a pretty flavourful blend.

    I can’t think of anything else to add at this stage, so I think I will pour myself a glass and see how I find this.The Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum review by the fat rum pirate

    In the glass we have a deep dark brown liquid almost mahoghany. With a orange hue.

    Nosing, I immediately notice are more woody profile. Definite wafts of freshly cut timber (says he who has never chopped a piece of wood in his life). Further nosing reveals dark chocolate, intense cacao and some stewed breakfast tea. Barrel char is evident on the nose as well.

    This is not a particularly sweet nose but if you go deep enough you’ll find some dark fruits – plums, redcurrants. Surprisingly there is little by way of vanilla, coconut and banana. Still it is quite a nice nose just a bit “woodier” than usual.

    Sipped, I’m finding it very heavy on the wood. The first couple of sips are a bit of a challenge and I find them quite bitter and just a bit too heavy on the char and wood. My palate, however seems to recover from the initial woody onslaught.

    A little anyway. I first tried a rum aged in Vigin Oak at London Rumfest in 2018. It was from Worthy Park. A number of people were raving about it. I just didn’t like the overall balance, it was just too woody.

    This isn’t as bad, as I recall the Worthy Park offering but it is still more bitter, more charred and more woody than I enjoy. Some of the balance and softness I enjoy with Foursquare rum has been lost a little with this.

    It does calm a glass or two in but it’s still not my favourite Foursquare. The initial bitter, cacao heavy, charred entry does give way to a little milk chocolate sweetness on the mid palate. Unfortunately this quickly switches back to the more charred woody influence.

    The Real McCoy Aged 10 Years Limited Edition Rum review by the fat rum pirateRather than improve this rum, I think the 10 Year Virgin Oak blend is actually drying the overall profile out. It’s thrown it out of sync. I’m not getting the vanilla, toffee,banana and coconut notes I enjoy in other aged Foursquare/The Real McCoy releases. This is bone dry and I’ve really struggled with it.

    There are of course far worse rums around than this but (and in a perverse way I’m kind of glad, as it might show some of my doubters that Foursquare don’t always get an easy ride) I won’t be handing out any plaudits for this Foursquare offering.

    Finish wise, it’s got a good length to it but it seems to dry up and leave behind only woody notes. I didn’t get a great deal of complex spices or much else unfortunately.

    I don’t think Virgin Oak is the way forward for me. I’ll be honest had I tried a sample of this, I doubt very much I would have bought the bottle.

    A very rare disappointment. This just did not work for me. I would definitely plump for the 12 Year Old given a choice.

  • Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum

    Walter Hicks 125 Navy rum review by the fat rum pirateWalter Hicks 125 Navy Rum hails from St Austell, Cornwall.  Produced by St Austell Brewery who are perhaps better known for producing Tribute Cornish Pale Ale, Korev Cornish Lager alongside Bad Habit and Cardinal Syn real ales.

    Products from the St Austell brewery are not only to be found in the South of England.  The Nicholson pub chain operated by Mitchell and Butler stock a number of their ales and have exclusivity on a couple.

    It is very likely that you have not come across this rum before.  The crazy tax laws of the UK it makes it pretty pricy to try and market “overproof” rum such as Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum.  As a result commercial domestic bottlers tend to stick to 37.5% or 40% with a few notable exceptions.

    The proof of this rum is also likely to be quite puzzling.  Nowadays we use the more standard US “double proofing” if you like.  So if something is 50% ABV is it 100 proof, 40% ABV is 80 proof and so on.  Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum is actually a fearsome 71.4% which would equate to around 142 proof.  I presume when the rum was named it was “proofed” using the then UK measure (we have since gone down the ABV route only rather than proof) of 1.75 of ABV so 71.4% ABV x 1.75 = 124.95 proof giving us Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum.

    The rum is a 7 year old Demerara blend. Matured in the UK.  It retails at £40 per bottle (multi buy gets you discount as well).  It is likely quite readily available in Cornwall in independent off licenses but I’ve certainly never seen a bottle of it for sale up North anywhere. Despite the very retro appearance (similar to the Rum Story’s Jefferson’s 1785 Dark Rum) it is still in production and if you do grow fond of this it is easily obtainable online direct from St Austell Brewery Shop.

    Another thing which is probably puzzling you is how light this Demerara rum appears.  Well if ever a rum shows just how much caramel is added to Demerara rums this is it.  Reminiscent of the Jamaican and Guyanese rums from Mezan.  I would say without doubt this this has very little colouring and only light filtration. In terms of looks it is a million miles away from all other Navy rums I can think of.Walter Hicks 125 Navy Rum review by the fat rum pirate

    Unlike other Navy rums Walter Hicks 125 does not purport to be a “Royal Navy” rum.  There is no back story on how this was once drunk by sailors in the Royal Navy.  It is named very simply after the founder of St Austell Brewery and is really a Navy style rum.

    So what do we have then? Well in the glass as mentioned already it is a very natural looking colour its very pale and for many may be slightly unexciting.

    The nose is surprisingly very sweet – very intense sweet molasses and caramel carried along with a slightly nose tingling hit of boozy fumes. Reminiscent in many ways to Lemon Hart 151 but not quite as raisined or fruity.  Even at such a high ABV it is almost sickly sweet on the nose.  Beneath this though is a slightly funky almost Jamaican Pot Still/Overproof funkiness.  I like the “booze” on the nose.

    Sipped at full ABV is not really the greatest of ideas.  It leads very quickly on the sweet caramel and chocolate notes. This quickly disappears into a very hot and difficult to manage alcohol burn. Which leaves your tongue tingling and will numb it if you take too big a sip.  A drop of water should determine whether I want to persist with sipping this rum.

    A drop does little really. I add a splash and using my hydrometer I bring it down to around 46% ABV.  The water certainly helps with the sweeter almost cloying notes of the rum.  Surprisingly it does little to eradicate the “boozy” elements of this rum.  Which I don’t mind at all.

    Walter Hick 125 Navy Rum Review by the fat rum pirateIt’s not a massively unpleasant sipper with a little water but it lacks any real complexity. Walter Hicks is full of “menace” and is quite spicy but it doesn’t really have a great deal of definition or individual flavours.  Hot, sweet and very boozy.

    When I bought this I figured I would use it a similar manner to Pussers Gunpowder Proof and Lemon Hart 151.  As a mixer with cola.  I didn’t expect much sipping wise (I was surprised to learn it was a 7 year old blend).  As a sipper it is average and a bit of a mood sipper (for when you want to imagine you’re a shipwrecked one legged pirate).

    Mixed is where Walter Hicks shows its teeth.  It’s not as complex as Pussers Gunpowder nor is it is rich and fruity as Woods 100 Navy Rum.  However, it overs a less complicated more straightforward mix of menacingly strong grog and a nice sweet overlay.

    It’s not classic Demerara – it is far too boozy, almost taking it to Pot Still Jamaican funk levels at times.  It’s not a rum I would wholeheartedly recommend to everyone.

    It is good though.  It works great mixed with cola.  The strong alcohol and boozy flavours really shine and contrast against the cola.  Sweeter caramel and toffee notes meld nicely in the mix giving an all too easy to drink rum and coke.

    This is well worth a try but beware of what it is.  Refined it is not.

    4 stars

     

     

     

  • Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia

    Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia rum review by the fat rum pirateDiplomatico Seleccion De Familia. At one time Diplomatico was perhaps second only to Ron Zacapa in terms of “Premium” rum. For many, rums such as Ron Zacapa, Diplomatico, El Dorado and Bacardi are still seen as the very pinnacle of rum production.

    Lets be honest in certain Rum Circles, the likes of A.H Riise and Don Papa are heralded as King of the Rums. The “outing” of these rums in terms of additives has made people think twice about what they are paying for. Unfortunately the sad reality still remains. Pretty bottles, promotional gimmicks and sweetened, easy going rum still sell by the truckload.

    Don’t worry I’m not going off on another tirade about sweetened rum. I’ve covered that issue more than enough.

    In line with recent changes to EU Regulations rum producers now have to adhere to a limit on additives allowed in any product they wish to label as rum. Some producers have simply dropped the “rum” from their label such as the aforementioned A.H.Riise. Thus continuing to sell their ultra-modified “rum” concoctions.

    I don’t know exactly what Diplomatico will be doing going forward. There will still be a lot of their product available within Europe, which was produced and imported long before the new regulations.

    However Diplomatico Seleccion de Familia is a more recent addition to the portfolio. It was released late in 2020 and it complies with the new EU Regulations of 20g/L for a spirit to be labelled “Rum”.. Readings for this rum show around 18g/L of sugar/additives. So they are sneaking just under the limit. Which is what people always suspected they would do.

    Which if fair enough. This is an addition to Diplomatico’s “core” range which consists of Planas, Manuato and Reserva Exclusiva. Price wise this offering sits at around £50 for 70cl bottle. So its the most Premium of the core range of rums. You can pick up a bottle online at The Whisky Exchange and other online retailers.

    Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia is bottled at 43% ABV and is said to be a blend of rums aged up to 12 years. I’m sure I’ve heard that one before. The rum is made up of Pot and Column distilled rums from the distilleries “Scottish” Pot Still, “French” Barbet Column Still and the “Canadian” Batch Kettle Still. What ratio of each is unknown to me. 90% of the rum is produced using the know mythical “Sugar Cane Honey” and 10% from the less mythical and rather more honest staple which is molasses.

    The rum is also a blend of rums aged in both ex-bourbon and ex-sherry barrels/casks. Though I have seen it noted as being aged in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry seasoned casks rather than actual ex-sherry casks.

    Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia rum review by the fat rum piratePresentation wise the rum used the traditional rounded stubby bottle favoured by the other expression in the core range. Presentation is very similar to Reserva Exclusiva just with a different colour scheme. Once again the renouned 19th century rum lover and explorer Don Juan Nieto Melendez or Don Juancho, is pictured on the label. A nice chunky cork stopper and a nice “cannister” complete the Premium look of this particular rum. It is easily available here in the UK and you can pick it up at Master of Malt for £49.95.

    As is the way with these heavily branded products, I don’t really have any inside information or anything interesting to add. I have noted though that due to the success of Diplomatico in France, this rum is said to have been produced with the French heavily in mind. Which is interesting.

    The rear label as pictured does seem to have some “information” of some sort but sadly, I’ve been unable to re-size the photo well enough to read it. Yes I am reviewing this from a sample, I don’t have the bottle. It’s not something I would buy nowadays.

    Anyway I think we may as well move onto a little nosing and tasting to see what this rum has to offer. I may well be wrong about the rum and maybe I should have bought a bottle?

    In the glass I am presented with dark bronze liquid which may (or may not) be coloured. In all honesty it doesn’t bother me that much if it is……or isn’t. Rum has many issues more serious for me than a bit of colour adjustment……

    The nose is light and unassuming. There is a kind of strange perfumed sherry type aroma. I’ve only experienced this once previously with a sherry seasoned cask finish rum. It’s not quite the same as an ex-sherry cask. I wouldn’t say it is artificial but it’s certainly a lot lighter and more flowery with a kind of weird banana chew like note (?). I don’t know if this is what “Paxarette” smells like? A kind of boiled grape must used to season casks.

    Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia rum review by the fat rum pirateAt 43% ABV it’s very easy going on the nose and it isn’t pulling up any trees to try and get my attention. It’s pleasant enough in a kind of “Plain Jane” sort of way. I’ll even that up and say its quite an “Average Joe” kind of nose. I don’t want the Cancel Culture posse getting on my back and calling me sexist.

    It’s sweet – notes of a kind of sweet sherry aroma, Floral Gums (really not very nice “perfume” smelling gummy sweets), Cherry Lips (as before only with a hit of Cherry). There is an almost Bubblegum note on the nose as well.

    Further nosing reveals a smattering of peanuts and some peanut brittle. A touch of light chocolate and maybe a little raisin. Hints of toffee and caramel.

    It’s all very “nice” and I guess balanced in its own rather meek way.

    In all honesty, it’s bloody boring.

    Sipping Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia is pretty much the non-event that the nose suggested it would be.

    The initial sip goes down really easily and there is minimal burn or any kind of “kick”. It has sweet, almost artificial kind of taste to it. It doesn’t really taste of anything in particular. I’d love to expand upon the notes on this rum but there is just not much really going on!

    Diplomatico Seleccion De Familia rum review by the fat rum pirate

    I won’t be as rude about as I have with other rums and suggest it is just sugar water. It does have a little more beyond that. But in all honesty – not a great lot.

    Your treated very briefly to a little bit of a kick on the mid palate and a very short explosion of something approaching spice or oak ageing. There’s a little burst of something oaky and spicy. A little ginger and some signs of wood or something a little more challenging.

    Sadly, these sensations and flavours are fleeting. The rum quickly returns to the sweet, slightly artificial sweetener like notes.

    This rum hasn’t given me any cause for excitement. At the same time it is relatively inoffensive. It’s still a little too sweet for my tastes but it’s certainly better than the likes of Don Papa and A.H Riise.

    That isn’t really praise though. This is bang average. Doesn’t even have enough about it to even annoy me.

    Just very boring.

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask Rum

    Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask Rum Review by the fat rum pirateRum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask. I’ve covered a bottling from Rum & Cane Merchants previously. If memory serves me correctly that was an offering from Worthy Park Distillery in Jamaica.

    The brand seem to cross over between being called West Indies Rum & Cane Merchants and just Rum & Cane Merchants. I fancy with all the cultural appropriation backlash, they may be looking to phase out the West Indies part in time. The brand is based in London but the parent group Crucial Drinks are based in Scotland. So not very West Indian in terms of location certainly.

    The brand first came to my attention a few years back. As well as releasing Single Cask bottlings they have also released regional blends from around the globe. For the next couple of months I will be reviewing a series of their recent Single Cask offerings.

    I am starting the series today with a bottling from Mauritus and the La Bourdonnaiss distillery. In 2006 Rhumerie des Mascereignes was built at the Domaine de Labourdonnais Estate. In 2014 the name as changed to La Bourdonnais. They produce a number of rhums under the La Bourdonnais brand such as Classic Gold, Spiced Gold and more premium offerings such as XO Vintage 2010. They have a website which covers the whole estate’s activities which is well worth a look.

    The rum today is made Sugar Cane Juice made with Sugar Cane grown at La Bourdonaiss estate. In some of the information on their website they mention it is a “blend” of Cane Juice and Molasses. Either way it is distilled on a Coffey Column still. The rum has been aged in a refill Ex-PX Sherry butt. There are 481 bottles available.

    Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask has been bottled at 46% ABV. It is 100% natural with no colourings or flavouring and is non-chill filtered. You can always tell when a whisky background is present in the rum world. They love saying stuff is non-chill filtered………

    The rum comes in what is termed an “onion style” decanter and I can certainly see why. The rum comes complete with a sturdy circular tin for storage – which is a nice touch. In the UK the rum is available via Amazon and also direct from Crucial Drinks. It retails at £64.95.

    Now before I begin my tasting I’ll just point out a couple of things which might hold this rum back and make people opt for something else…….

    In the world of Independent bottlings and Single Cask releases – the age statement is absolutely key. With so many bottlings and choice even from smaller distilleries such as La Bourdonaiss, not having a clear age statement could lead to sales going elsewhere. Despite a lot of information about the cask used, distillation etc – their is no age statement beyond “XO”.

    In the rum world doesn’t mean a lot unfortunately. However in the “rhum” world X.O. (Extra Old) refers to a rhum which is at least 6 years old. As such, I can’t really comment on how good value this rum may or may not be. Not that you should judge a rum by its age. That said age is a consideration for many, when buying these types of rums.

    Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask Rum Review by the fat rum pirateAnother and personally this is not so much of an issue, is the ABV. A lot of the time when people buy Single Cask rum they like to feel they are getting it direct from the Cask, with no further interference. For some even the addition of water will lead them to seek out a Cask Strength alternative.

    Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask Rum Review by the fat rum pirateAnyway,  enough of my jabberings. Lets get on a see how this rum goes down.

    In the glass Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask is a reassuring medium-dark brown colour with a yellow to orange hue. As it is non-chill filtered it is slightly cloudy but that is certainly not an issue – that cloudiness adds flavour!

    The nose is sweet. It’s slightly vegetal with some nice sweet sugar cane notes. It is certainly at least partially – if not entirely a Sugar Cane Juice r(h)um. It is reminding me very much of aged Agricole Rhum especially the Saint James line up.

    Despite being aged in an ex-sherry butt it is still full of vanilla and caramel sauce. I’m getting a fruitiness as well – Apple turnover, hints of raisins, cherries and a slightly peppery spicy note making its self noticed.

    It’s a complex and very moreish kind of nose. It’s the kind of rum you will leave in the glass for a long time – just nosing it. Not because it doesn’t seem very inviting, far from it. Just because it’s so very pleasant and so wonderfully balanced and aromatic.

    Sipped Rum & Cane Merchants Mauritius XO Single Cask is sweeter than the nose suggests. The initial entry is very sweet with a fair hit of sweet sherry like notes and fresh sugar cane juice.

    It’s very fruity with lots of stewed dark fruits, Apple Crumble, Stewed Plums and rich tart Gooseberries. Alongside this sweetness is a very gluey kind of note which might sound unpleasant but is actually quite interesting!

    The mid palate moves the rum in a spicier more oak influenced direction. It becomes less sweet and drier and spicier on the palate. It has a real spicy tang. I’m getting what I can only describe as a very spicy chilli like heat – which reminds me of Thai curry or a spicy Pad Thai. This really is quite a spicy rum!

    The finish remains quite fiery with the spicy chilli and the oaky spices leading the way. The initial sweetness of PX Sherry has all but disappeared and as the finish fades out you are left with lingering notes of Sugar Cane and a fading chilli/pepper heat.

    The length of the finish is just right and it begins to fade at just the right time.

    This is a really interesting bottling. It’s best described as aged Rhum Agricole with a drop or two of Tabasco towards the end. It combines everything you want and enjoy in aged Agricole Rhum with spicy twist at the end.

    Considering the price of your average aged Rhum Agricole (and bear in mind many “brands” are bottled at 40-46% ABV anyway) – I don’t think anyone who is a fan of such rums would feel robbed by this bottling.

    I do think this has got a good age to it and even if it hasn’t I’ve really enjoyed this bottling.

    Equal parts familiar and equal parts different.