J Gow Rum Wild Yeast Series Orchweizen 2023

Introduction

J. Gow have steadily built a reputation for doing things a little differently. While many craft rum producers focus on unusual cask finishes or exotic botanicals, the Orkney distillery have increasingly explored fermentation as a way to create distinctive flavour profiles. That brings us to the fifth release in their Wild Yeast Series, J Gow Rum Wild Yeast Series Orchweizen 2023

On paper, this is one of the more intriguing rums I’ve encountered in recent years. The spirit is made using wild yeast isolated from northern marsh orchids growing close to the distillery on Lamb Holm and is blended with rum fermented using hefeweizen yeast. Beer enthusiasts may already know that hefeweizen strains are capable of producing significant quantities of isoamyl acetate, a flavour compound commonly associated with banana aromas.

I was wondering what the label designed by local artist Cromarte (Michael Cromarty a friend of Collin from J Gow) was about and was struggling to understand why we had Abe Simpson dressed in a Banana Skin surrounded by Orchids.

Anyway, add in lengthy 20 and 31 day fermentations, a maturation period in Chestnut and Pedro Ximénez casks, a robust bottling strength of 55% ABV, and you’ve got something that promises to be considerably more adventurous than the average young rum.

At release there was only 460 bottles available priced at £60 and available direct from J Gow here.

The question, as always, is whether all those fascinating production details actually translate into a drinking experience or as with his Death Metal logo T-Shirts has he gone a step too far even for the Rum Geeks?

Tasting

The rum pours a amber to gold colour with flashes of copper. It certainly looks far older than its three years might suggest. In particular bearing in mind the climate it has been aged in. Certainly no fast track Tropical Ageing on offer here. Quite the opposite.

On the nose the anticipated Banana note arrives almost immediately and certainly not through the power of suggestions its very much present. Thankfully its not the artificial Foam Banana (Bumbu) sweetness. Instead, it’s more ripe Banana bread fresh from the oven.

Alongside this comes a wave of Dried fruits. Raisins, Sultanas and sticky Dates all make an appearance, undoubtedly aided by the PX cask influence. There is also a pleasant nuttiness running through the background which feels well integrated rather than dominant.

Given the chestnut cask ageing, I was expecting something a little more overtly woody or tannic but the cask influence remains relatively restrained. Instead, there are notes of Honey, Baked Apples and hints of Orange Peel.

With time in the glass, a slightly earthy quality begins to emerge. Whether this can genuinely be attributed to the Orchid derived yeast is impossible to say but there is certainly an unusual floral and herbal character sitting beneath the sweeter aromas.

The alcohol is handled well. At 55% ABV there is plenty of intensity but very little harshness.

On the first sip the arrival is rich and surprisingly creamy.

Much like the nose immediately, the Hefeweizen influence comes out. Banana, Clove and soft baking spices are all present.

The PX cask contributes layers of Fig, Raisin and dark Honey sweetness without overwhelming proceedings. One thing that impresses throughout is the balance. It would have been easy for this release to become an exercise in experimentation for experimentation’s sake. Instead, the various components seem to complement one another.

Mi dpalate brings additional complexity. Toasted nuts, Milk chocolate and a touch of Ginger begin to emerge. There is also a slightly funky edge which provides a welcome counterpoint to the sweeter elements.

The texture is particularly impressive. Long fermentations often contribute additional depth and complexity, and that seems evident here. The mouthfeel is oily without becoming heavy and carries the flavours effectively across the palate.

Adding a few drops of water opens the spirit considerably. The floral notes become more pronounced and some citrus freshness appears. The result is a slightly more elegant profile, though I personally preferred it at full strength where the richness and texture are more apparent.

The finish is long, warming and satisfying.

Banana bread, Honey, Raisins and Baking spices linger for a considerable time. The Chestnut cask influence becomes slightly more noticeable here, introducing a gentle dryness and nuttiness that helps prevent the sweeter PX-derived notes from dominating.

There is also a lingering floral quality which gives the rum a distinctive identity and separates it from many other cask driven craft releases.

Verdict

Orchweizen 2023 succeeds because it feels like a genuinely flavour led experiment rather than a marketing exercise. There is literally nothing else out there that tastes quite like this. Not even in J Gow’s own arsenal.

The production story is fascinating but thankfully the liquid itself delivers enough quality to justify the attention. Too often in the modern spirits world, unusual fermentation techniques or rare ingredients become the headline while the resulting spirit doesn’t live up to the hype. That isn’t the case here.

What’s particularly impressive is how approachable the rum remains despite the unconventional production methods. The Banana, Dried fruit and Spice notes provide familiar reference points, while the Floral and Earthy aspects introduce something genuinely distinctive.

The relatively young age never becomes an issue. Good fermentation and thoughtful cask management have provided more than enough character and maturity. While older spirits may offer greater depth in some areas, this release demonstrates that age statements are far from the only measure of quality.

At £60, the pricing feels reasonable given the small outturn, high ABV, experimental production, and overall quality of the spirit. It occupies an interesting middle ground between craft rum curiosity and serious sipping rum.

Would I buy a second bottle? Quite possibly. Would I recommend it to someone new to rum? Perhaps not as a first purchase. Would I recommend it to enthusiasts looking for something genuinely different? Absolutely.

Final Thoughts J. Gow continue to carve out their own niche in the rum world and Orchweizen 2023 may well be one of their most successful experiments to date.