Foursquare Penultimus
F
oursquare Penultimus. Ah yes I’m ahjead of the game with this Exceptional Cask Series release. In fact I am reviewing this using the final 30ml of it currently available in the UK.
You’re quite correct it hasn’t been released in blighty yet. However I have contacts, influential contacts. Step forward the wonderful Peter Holland who is the UK (and possibly European) Rum Ambassador for Doorly’s and all things Foursquare delivery.
Now Peter has been sending me sample of Foursquare releases for some time. However, this is the first one he has hand delivered to the doorstep of thefatrumpirate.com Towers here in (not so sunny) Sunderland up here in the Frozen North. Which was very kind. I had intended to see him at the Newcastle Whisky Festival but unfortunately it was sold out. So he detoured on his way home to kindly drop this sample of.
So here I am on a Sunday morning analysing my notes from last nights sampling and putting together a rather smug first review of Penultimus. With a broken arm – again. I think the footballing gods are conspiring against the come back of the greatest rgiht footed left back since Denis Irwin. The bastards.
Oh and this is in the aftermath of a rather fitful nights sleep thanks to storm “Dave”. I was going to comment on what an absolutely stupid name this is for a storm but I’ve seen the next male storm name………..Eddie. I mean come on! Imagine being a storm and they call you “Dave” or “Eddie”. I’d cause extra hell on just for the fun of it.
Anyone back to the script Wes, Foursquare Penultimus. This represents the 30th releases in the ECS. As the title suggests it is the second last in the ECS. Why they didn’t got for a round 30 I’m not so sure. Though the gap between number 1 and number 2 was a good number of years.
First up its about the first ECS Series where I actually know what it means without having to consult Google, since they started with the fancy names. So there is a plus point for me.
As I am reviewing from a sample I have sourced the photos from wherever I could find one! Sadly no rear label shoots. I’ll correct this later. NB II think there is an issue with the photos on this review – I’ll try and fix it!!!!
Foursquare Penultimus is a 15year old ex-Bourbon cask rum blended with a 10 year ex-Bourbon cask with a further 5 years ageing in ex-Moscatel cask (dual maturation). It has been bottled at 57%. This I have been told is going to be the new standard presentation strength moving forward with Limited Edition releases.
Although the ECS is finishing it does not mean Foursquare’s output will stagnate. There will be something new in Autumn. Foursquare have the better part of 50,0000 barrels maturing at Foursquare, So they certainly aren’t going to stop the aged limited editions. When released here in the UK it should retail at around the £100 mark I should imagine.
So lets get down to the fun part.
Straight away on the nose it’s doing a lot of the things you’d want it to. Plenty of that classic coconut and vanilla, a bit of sweetness. Then the Moscatel cask adding a slightly darker, fruitier edge. Nothing over the top more raisins and a bit of fig than anything fresh or jammy. It’s actually quite well judged.
On the palate it’s pretty much what you’d expect but in a good way. Nicely put together. You’ve got the usual caramel, vanilla, and oak combo. There’s a bit more depth here than your standard ex-bourbon offering.
The wine cask adds a slightly richer feel dried fruits, a touch of plum, maybe a bit of red grape skin and there’s a gentle spice running through it that keeps things interesting. It does lean a little towards the drier, oakier side but not to the point where it becomes hard work.
The 57% is noticeable but it’s well integrated. You can sip it neat without too much trouble, though it does open up a bit with a drop of water if you want to take the edge off and bring out a bit more of the fruit.
Finish is very enjoyable. Fairly long, dries out nicely with lingering spice and oak, plus just enough of that Moscatel influence hanging around to remind you it’s there.
Overall, it’s difficult to pick fault with rum when it is made as well as this. This one maybe is not the most exciting or distinctive ECS release in terms of age or offering a new twist, but it’s hard to fault in terms of balance and drinkability. Which is how rum should be judged rather than on gimmicks, fancy marketing and faux history
The Moscatel cask is handled well this could have been very sweet. adding something without taking over. It feels like one of those bottles that’ll just quietly grow on you the more time you spend with it.
I will be ordering a bottle (or two) in due course without doubt!
A 2001 single vintage from Diplomatico who should need little or no introduction. Their Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva is regularly cited as one of the worlds greatest rums. For many rum lovers their rums are staples in their rum cabinets.
As to be expected from “Premium” rums such as this, the presentation is excellent. You get a great decanter style glass bottle and a very stylish blue and grey box for storage. The cork stopper is large and gives a very satisfying pop. The stopper top is also very impressive and quite ornate. No doubt some of your £80 is going towards this lavish presentation. The box also gives us the Diplomatico marketing pzazz. Sadly no information on what is actually in the bottle though.
Sipping this Single Vintage rum is quite an interesting experience. Initially its very sweet and you think it may overpower you with wave after wave of sugar. It doesn’t.
Silver Seal Dennery Superior St Lucian Rum. The use of the “Dennery Distillery” on this bottling (and others) by Silver Seal has caused quite a lot of consternation from those currently involved at St Lucia Distillers. Dennery is a completely different site to where the only St Lucian rum producer – St Lucia Distillers are now housed.
Dictador Best of 1979 41.8% ABV. A rum almost as old as my good self. Just a year out from my date of birth. Dictador have released a number of these “Best of” rums over the past couple of years. All with quite a lot of ageing to them. On the surface at least.
It’s thin and everything about it is very short. There is no real development beyond the initltial sweet confection. Maybe some bitter woody notes as mentioned but that’s it. The finish? There’s nothing there really . You sip it and it quickly just disappears. A slight alcohol burn but nothing much else.
The Duppies are Caribbean spirits who steal Caribbean rum hopping from island to island, keeping the best for themselves.
tend to be cheaper blends. Often they are to be found on Supermarket shelves. Pusser’s aside I cannot think of many “blended” rums that I would rate as classics.
The rum can be sipped and is very pleasant that way. In many ways it reminds me of the carefully blended rums from the Appleton Estate. The 8 Year Old Reserve in particular. The Jamaican rum provides the flavour and the Bajan provides the smoothness to balance out the rough edges of the young Jamaican rum.
Dead Man’s Fingers is a Spiced Rum. First released in 2015 by The Rum and Crab Shack, St Ives, Cornwall. Initially the rum was only available in the bar/restaurant (which has since expanded to another branch in Exeter). It is now pushing for a national release and is already available from a number of UK online retailers.
Which is a slight concern. On the nose I’m initially struck by a very familiar smell. Vanilla and I’m getting waft after waft of it. Reminiscent of old style UK Sailor Jerry, Old J Spiced, RedLeg and even Rumbullion. My initial thoughts are not that profile all over again………..sweet vanilla and caramel.
Sipping offers my first real surprise. It is nowhere near as sweet as the nose implies. In actual fact the orange peel/marmalade notes really shine through. It’s reasonably complex – some nice more natural tasting notes of cinnamon, brown sugar and a little saffron spice. The vanilla has become much more muted, having all but disappeared. If you wanted an after dinner drink this wouldn’t be terrible with a chunk of ice and a squeeze of lime (or maybe orange?).
I had seen this rum on sale in M&S and came close to buying a bottle for £19. In the end I was persuaded that I didn’t need it by my wife (who had bought me it for Christmas). The rum usually retails at £22 for a 70cl bottle. As Marks and Spencer have recently begun stocking “brand name” goods I was slightly surprised to see the additions to their rum range were own brand offerings. Supermarket rum is not something which excites me, its cheaper than entry level branded rum and this is usually reflected in both taste and appearance. However, M&S is no ordinary supermarket and indeed this may well be no ordinary rum. Apologies to anyone with Albatross now running through their head…………